Moerdijks Restaurant
Since Moerdijks changed hands 18 months ago, the boere-baroque has gone and the rather gloomy ghosts of Pretoria's past exorcised. The all-women team has stripped away the dark drapes, removed the bric-a-brac and allowed light to spill into the spacious rooms of the historic Gerard Moerdijk house.
We're not talking trendy modernisation; just a getting back to basics that enhances the timeless character of the house. The new look is dramatically monochromatic, emphasising the dark mahogany of the original window frames, doors and skirting in crisp counterpoint to the plain white walls and starched white tablecloths covering the well spaced tables. The effect is elegant airiness, as light from the full-length terrace doors and windows refracts off the gleaming floors and sparkling tableware.
The traditional menu has also been tweaked. The three women at the helm, co-owner Nikolien du Toit, consulting chef Magda Scholtz and head chef Miriam Moteane-Keta, have been updating the menu, adding flair and freshness to some South African icons.
Bobotie experiences a new incarnation (in spring rolls), smoked Springbok is dressed in a delicious and subtle chilli honey vinaigrette and grilled Karoo lamb is served with a reduced blue cheese sauce that adds a light but tantalising edge and body to the meat's juices.
Red meat remains prominent on the menu, in deference to Pretoria tastes, but the heavy, creamy sauces have been replaced with lighter versions. A firm favourite is the meltingly tender and generously proportioned flambé fillet, served with a mustard and Madagascar peppercorn sauce. There's lamb in abundance too while big game hunters can choose between kudu and ostrich fillet, the latter smothered in a delicious black cherry, mint and Frangelico reduction that enlivened the rather large slab.
Dullstroom rainbow trout and mushroom stuffed chicken breast on herbed couscous with porcini jus cater to lighter palates. Vegetarian choices are limited and a new addition to the menu, a meze platter including cumin spiced pumpkin, eggplant with chilli, and grilled sweet potato with ginger dressing, promised more than it delivered.
The pièce de resistance of the light dessert menu is the fruit sorbet. Each flavour - lemon, pineapple, orange, coconut or apple - is served in the actual fruit. The lemon was both zesty and creamy, a diverting combination that aptly concluded a rich meal. "Fried" ice cream in a crunchy nut case was another quirky combination, but the chocolate mousse cake was disappointingly stodgy.
Despite its popularity with the diplomatic set and members of government, the atmosphere is convivial, the service friendly and unaffected. A log fire adds to the cosiness and an after dinner cognac and cigar can be savoured in the adjoining cigar lounge.
The winelist too shows an injection of newer labels, though the large selection of off-dry and natural sweet wines testifies to less austere Pretoria preferences. Surprisingly, there is only one Chenin Blanc: Kaya at R39. Prices are generally friendly. Vergelegen Vin de Florence is R49 and Nederburg Noble Late Harvest R40. The balanced selection of reds includes a rare find in restaurants - KWV Cabernet, Shiraz and Pinotage (all R135) and Roodeberg (R129). No vintages are given
Average three-course meal: R126.
By Alice Coetzee
Address: Corner Park and Beckett Street, Arcadia. Tel 012 344 4856, fax 012 344 6071, cell 083 239 3868. Lunch and dinner every day. BOY R15. Both smoking and non-smoking sections. Babysitting service. Secure parking.
Food: 4
Wine list3
Ambience: 4
Service: 3.5
Value: 4
