Midlands Meander

THE ROUTE:
Waterfalls, mist-covered mountains and green pastures are what you expect to encounter along the spiderweb of routes that make up the Midlands Meander, but now you will also see vines growing against slopes and next to the road.

 

Our route extended from the Midmar Dam in the Natal Midlands, along the R103 to the Nottingham Road interchange.

HISTORY:
The Meander was initially established by a pseudo-hippy gathering of artists and crafters looking for a route along which to exhibit and sell their wares. It lies between Pietermaritzburg and Mooi River, and was unofficially demarcated in the early 1980s.

After a significant number of craftspeople settled here, the Midlands Meander grew into a hub of numerous arts and crafts shops; and restaurants and delicatessens soon followed.

The Meander's roots are firmly embedded in hippy culture, so you can expect to find some very casual hangouts with not much to offer on the food and ambience front, but there are also some truly fantastic stops - you just need to know where to look.

FIRST STOP: MIDMAR DAM
Near Pietermaritzburg lies Midmar Dam, known for hosting the world's largest open-water swimming race, the annual Midmar Mile.

For the rest of the year this is where you can practise and enjoy recreational activities such as boating, waterskiing, fishing and picnicking.

Not far from Midmar Dam is the Mandela Monument, erected at the spot where Nelson Mandela was captured on 5 August 1962.

THE DRIVE:
The drive along the R103 is intercepted with back routes that run past numerous shops, restaurants and places of interest. It is therefore best to set aside a day for this outing, and to make frequent stops to browse local crafts and food stores.

SECOND STOP: ABINGDON WINE ESTATE AT CURRY'S POST
Approximately three kilometres from the Mandela Monument is where you'll encounter the turn-off for Abingdon Wine Estate (tel 033 234 4335), where Ian and Jane Smorthwaite run a welcoming establishment. Makers of authentic Midlands wine, the Smorthwaites offer the meandering traveller numerous excuses to linger.

Here you get to taste their very elegant wines in an equally enticing tasting venue in full view of their vineyards, while Jane dishes up everything from platters to soups on those rainy Midlands days. And her home-made bread is simply fantastic.

THIRD STOP: MEANDER FINE WINES AND PIGGLY WIGGLY
Look out for a big sign of a frothy cappuccino as a signal for your next stop. Piggly Wiggly is a farm stall turned deli/coffee shop, and serves, as the sign promises, the best cappuccino in the Midlands (tel 033 234 4323).

It serves up a generous menu of delicious dishes too. Interestingly enough, the big coffee sign stands amid vineyards - the produce of which is to be found at the on-premises wine shop Meander Fine Wines (tel 033 234 4370).

Rudi Kassier is the owner of Piggly Wiggly, and also heads a garagiste-sized wine operation where he produces his range of Piggly Wiggly-themed wines.

fourth stop: La Lampara Italian Restaurant

Slightly off the beaten track is La Lampara Italian Restaurant, a viable lunch option along this stretch of dirt road alongside the R103.

La Lampara is set in a restored Natal brick dairy, a quaint, relaxing venue in which to enjoy wood-fired pizza and other Italian fare. Sit outside, if weather permits, or snuggle up in front of the log fire on a rainy day.

Do take note that La Lampara is only open from Thursday to Saturday for lunch and dinner. (Tel 033 266 6899)

fifth stop: Blueberry Hill

There is nothing like a good old sweet treat to end off the day, and this is best enjoyed at Blueberry Hill, just short of the Nottingham Road interchange.

Here, French-style windows fold away to allow the restaurant to be drenched in sun, while the menu consists of food and drink choices that feature berries as ingredients.

The food is utterly yummy - and with blueberries being rich in antioxidants it is healthy too! (Tel 033 266 6899)

Final Stop: fly-fishing

The Midlands Meander is a premier flyfishing destination with numerous dams and rivers along the route providing some of the finest still-water and river fishing in the country.

Of course the beautiful setting lends itself to the calm art of this outdoor activity. At Fourdon Hotel and Spa, just across the road to Blueberry Hill, you can fish for trout at two dams, or take a guided hike to the Bushman's River for a full day of fishing. (Tel 033 266 6217)