Linger Longer
Published: 01 Oct 03
Category: Fine Dining
Not a restaurant for lightweights, it's geared to those serious about food, or with corporate clients to cosset - though I was distressed to see that the businessmen at t
he next table were too intent on a high-pressure deal to appreciate
the subtlety and balance of their meal.
There's a soothing, timeless quality to the venue that has earned a special place in the annals of Gauteng cuisine for its longevity - it opened as a tearoom on the ground floor of a pre-war rooming house in downtown Johannes- burg in 1961 - and for the staying power of chef cuisinier Walter Ulz, who has ruled the kitchen for over 25 years.
Walter (whose fans include Nelson Mandela) has seen Linger Longer through various incarnations and more food trends than he cares to count. In food fashion terms, he remembers when Avocado Ritz was SA's most sophisticated starter. He's now witnessing its re-introduction as the height of retro chic.
Entice him from his kitchen kingdom and persuade him to feed you his anecdotes. He's a walking encyclopaedia on Johannesburg's culinary lore and a staunch supporter of the city in its on-going gastronomic rivalry with Cape Town.
He's also a caring host. If you're feeling jaded, simply put yourself in his experienced hands. He will remember your likes and dislikes, is as adept with hot-and-sour seaweed soup as he is with seafood ceviche, and in true fine dining tradition, is able to pick the perfect specials to quicken your appetite.
Many regulars wave away the menu, making straight for Walter's silky terrine of foie gras with artichoke and a colour-mix of peppercorns. But the line-up of favourites includes cognac-laced lobster bisque, and tasty salad with seasonal greens, sliced potatoes, grilled apple and crunchy bacon croûtons or relish the palate-tingling freshness of shucked oysters, salmon tar-tare and seafood marinated in lime and lemon.
For mains, balsamic and truffle oil dressing enhance pan-fried salmon slices; Cape linefish, topped with a puff pastry net, rests on a bed of spinach and wild mushrooms; flaked almonds and crisp sage leaves garnish delicately flavoured lasagne of black and oyster mushrooms. Savour the addictive sauces: lemon-pepper seared beef fillet takes porcini cream sauce; classic rosemary sauce surrounds lamb rack and loin, crusted with a tangy mix of mustard, garlic and herbs, and complemented by couscous.
As dessert, pander to pleasure with iced yoghurt and strawberry torte; orange-glazed crepes bursting with hot vanilla cream cheese and brandied raisins; or a forest berry mousse in a frivolous chocolate potjie on cassis coulis.
Lively, extensive winelist with a wide choice that includes new smaller producers, and reasonable mark-ups. But we'd like to see vintages. Check BYO when booking.
Average 3-course meal R170
Vegetarian friendly
Not a restaurant for lightweights, it's geared to those serious about food, or with corporate clients to cosset - though I was distressed to see that the businessmen at t
There's a soothing, timeless quality to the venue that has earned a special place in the annals of Gauteng cuisine for its longevity - it opened as a tearoom on the ground floor of a pre-war rooming house in downtown Johannes- burg in 1961 - and for the staying power of chef cuisinier Walter Ulz, who has ruled the kitchen for over 25 years.
Walter (whose fans include Nelson Mandela) has seen Linger Longer through various incarnations and more food trends than he cares to count. In food fashion terms, he remembers when Avocado Ritz was SA's most sophisticated starter. He's now witnessing its re-introduction as the height of retro chic.
Entice him from his kitchen kingdom and persuade him to feed you his anecdotes. He's a walking encyclopaedia on Johannesburg's culinary lore and a staunch supporter of the city in its on-going gastronomic rivalry with Cape Town.
He's also a caring host. If you're feeling jaded, simply put yourself in his experienced hands. He will remember your likes and dislikes, is as adept with hot-and-sour seaweed soup as he is with seafood ceviche, and in true fine dining tradition, is able to pick the perfect specials to quicken your appetite.
Many regulars wave away the menu, making straight for Walter's silky terrine of foie gras with artichoke and a colour-mix of peppercorns. But the line-up of favourites includes cognac-laced lobster bisque, and tasty salad with seasonal greens, sliced potatoes, grilled apple and crunchy bacon croûtons or relish the palate-tingling freshness of shucked oysters, salmon tar-tare and seafood marinated in lime and lemon.
For mains, balsamic and truffle oil dressing enhance pan-fried salmon slices; Cape linefish, topped with a puff pastry net, rests on a bed of spinach and wild mushrooms; flaked almonds and crisp sage leaves garnish delicately flavoured lasagne of black and oyster mushrooms. Savour the addictive sauces: lemon-pepper seared beef fillet takes porcini cream sauce; classic rosemary sauce surrounds lamb rack and loin, crusted with a tangy mix of mustard, garlic and herbs, and complemented by couscous.
As dessert, pander to pleasure with iced yoghurt and strawberry torte; orange-glazed crepes bursting with hot vanilla cream cheese and brandied raisins; or a forest berry mousse in a frivolous chocolate potjie on cassis coulis.
Lively, extensive winelist with a wide choice that includes new smaller producers, and reasonable mark-ups. But we'd like to see vintages. Check BYO when booking.
Average 3-course meal R170
Vegetarian friendly
by Jos Baker
Address: 58 Wierda Rd East, Wierda Valley, Sandton, Johannesburg. Tel 011 884 0465 . Lunch Mon-Fri
Dinner Mon-Sat. Secure parking on premises. No smoking.
Food: 5
Wine list4
Ambience: 4
Service: 4
Value: 4.5
