Lexus Shiraz Challenge 2008

Wine lovers are spoilt for choice when it comes to SA Shiraz. Christian Eedes reports on the 2008 WINE magazine blind tasting to crown a champion.Shiraz has gone from making up 2.2% of the national vineyard in 1998 to 9.7% in 2007 and it now seems that this extremely rapid rate of planting has led to market saturation.

 

For this year’s Shiraz Challenge, sponsored by Lexus, the focus was on wines from either the 2005 and 2006 vintages, whatever producers had released most recently. Submissions amounted to 114 wines, down from 189 (mainly from the 2004 and 2005 vintage) reviewed last year and the 215 (from 2003 and 2004) in 2006, and the conclusion must be drawn that there is plenty of Shiraz from older vintages still available forcing cellars to sit on younger wines.

Producers are however still bullish about what they can charge: the average price of all the wines assessed was R110 a bottle, up from R91 a bottle last year. Of interest, too, is that current-release Shiraz seems to demand a premium relative to single-variety Cabernet Sauvignon – the 70 examples of 2005 Cab assessed in our April issue were selling for an average price of R96 a bottle.

So what to make of this year’s results? The winner with a rating of 4½ Stars was the Winemaster’s Reserve 2006 from Nederburg – the renaissance of this producer under Romanian-born cellarmaster Razvan Macici continues (see pp.34-38 for an in-depth report on this wine).

While it will probably leave the Nederburg brains trust bemused, thrifty wine lovers will be delighted to discover that the R57-abottle Winemaster’s Reserve 2006 outperformed the R90-a-bottle Nederburg Manor House Shiraz 2006, the more premium offering rated 3 Stars.

As ever, the panel was at pains to allow for the broadest possible spread of styles: this meant allowing for intensely flavoured, full-bodied wines in the idiom of South Australia’s Barossa Valley at one end of the spectrum and more peppery and elegant wines as typified by the Rhône at the other.

There were, however, wines that went too far one way or another. Those looking for the richness of Barossa were sometimes inclined to overdo things: the wine that turned out to be De Trafford 2006, for instance, was described as “over-ripe, over-extracted” by panellist Angela Lloyd, while chairman Michael Fridjhon and I both thought the oak excessive.

Conversely, those aiming for the finesse of the Rhône ended up with wines that were slight and insubstantial: the Luddite 2005, for example, was described as having “a thin palate, some eucalyptus” by Cape Wine Master Christine Rudman, while Fridjhon and I found it “low in fruit” and “acidic and green” respectively.

The use of white grape variety Viognier, as a blending component to add perfume, bind colour and soften tannins, seems as widespread as ever. Some producers declare this proudly on their labels, but one suspects that there are plenty using it surreptitiously. It certainly makes a wine stand out in a lineup, but there must be a question mark over how it affects a wine’s structure in terms of its ability to mature with benefit. “Obvious now, but very often overly obvious in two years’ time,” remarked Fridjhon.

It was pleasing that there were far fewer wines completely compromised by spoilage yeast brettanomyces. This is not to say that brett has been entirely eradicated; rather, the panel encountered many wines where brett-induced character was playing a “complexifying” role rather than being utterly predominant. Of course, it might be that local judges have moderated their position from a few years ago when a wine showing any sign of the effects of brett was rejected out of hand…

Perhaps the biggest point of concern was the clumsy use of oak. Wood-derived coffee, smoke and vanilla aromas and flavours might have commercial appeal but when these are not backed up by sufficient fruit and intricacy of flavour, such wines are never going to be in the running for higher honours. What exacerbates the problem is the youth of Shiraz vines in this country – 87% were no more than 10 years old at the end of 2007, this typically resulting in wines that are lighter in body and less capable of standing up to a heavy oaking regime.

That said, producers seem to be on an exponential learning curve when it comes to obtaining the best expression of Shiraz under local conditions. Increasingly, we are seeing the emergence of different styles that are not so much winemaking-driven as region- or even site-led: compare burly Fairview Solitude from warm Paarl with refined Lomond Conebush from cool Agulhas – stylistically different but equally legitimate.

And then, of course, if you’re not too preoccupied with terroir, there’s the winning Nederburg wine, made from grapes sourced from Paarl, Durbanville, Philadelphia and Stellenbosch.

SHIRAZ CHALLENGE WINNERS TO DATE:

2008 – Nederburg Winemaster’s Reserve 2006
2007 – Bon Courage Inkará 2005
2006 – Saxenburg Private Collection 2003
2005 – Kleine Zalze Family Reserve 2003
2004 – Simonsig Merindol 2001

TOP 10 WINES OVERALL

1. Nederburg Winemaster’s Reserve 2006 4½ Stars R57.00
2. Stellenzicht Golden Triangle 2005 4½ Stars R65.00
2. Lomond Conebush 2006 4½ Stars R197.00
4. Saxenburg Private Collection 2005 4½ Stars R105.00
5. Groot Constantia Gouverneurs 2006 4½ Stars R162.00
6. Thelema 2006 4 Stars R100.00
7. Quoin Rock Simonsberg 2005 4 Stars R125.00
8. Fairview Solitude 2006 3½ Stars R150.00
9. Hartenberg The Stork 2005 3½ Stars R284.00
9. Lynx 2006 3½ Stars R90.00

JUDGING PROCEDURES

There were 114 submissions in total. Of these, 25 were deemed “seeded players” based on track records and were automatically put through to the second round. The others were tasted blind by the five-person panel, with scoring throughout done according to the 20-point/5 Star system, and those which the panel agreed had particular distinction put forward to the second round. The result was that a further five wines joined the 25 “seeded players”.

Following debate among the panellists, seven wines emerged as contenders to win the competition outright and these wines were re-tasted in a third round, with the judges asked to rank the wines in terms of preference to determine final placings.

The decision to present a top 10 in addition to an outright winner was prompted by the depth of quality as well as the breadth of styles the Shiraz category displays. Apart from the seven wines in the final round, the top 10 included the three wines with the next highest combined scores.

Nederburg Winemaster’s Reserve 2006
CELLAR PRICE: R57
Nose shows red berries, spice and some
smoky notes. Juicy fruit and some savoury
character on the palate. Oak well judged.
Finishes dry. Drink now or over the next
3 years.
MF 6th AL 1st GdF 2nd CR 3rd CE 3rd

Stellenzicht Golden Triangle 2005
CELLAR PRICE: R65
Forthcoming nose of dark fruit and some
oak character. Rich and full on the palate.
Lots of pepper and spice. Chewy tannins.
Persistent finish. Drink now or over the
next 2 years.
MF 5th AL 5th GdF 1st CR 1st CE 4th

Saxenburg Private Collection 2005
CELLAR PRICE: R105
Dark berries, spice and some smoky notes
on the nose. Full bodied but precise palate
with good fruit expression, fresh acid and
firm but fine tannins. Long finish.
Drink in 2 to 7 years.
MF 3rd AL 6th GdF 7th CR 2nd CE 1st

Groot Constantia
Gouverneurs 2006
CELLAR PRICE: R162
Intensely aromatic on the nose showing
dark fruit, spice and some floral notes.
Full bodied on the palate with smooth
tannins. Long finish.
Drink in 2 to 5 years.
MF 7th AL 3rd GdF 3rd CR 6th CE 2nd
 

Lomond Conebush 2006
APPROXIMATE RETAIL PRICE: R197
Plenty of spice on the nose. Palate is medium
bodied with red fruit, pepper and fine
tannins. Good freshness and persistence.
Drink in 2 to 5 years.
MF 1st AL 2nd GdF 4th CR 4th CE 5th

Thelema 2006
CELLAR PRICE: R100
Intensely perfumed on the nose. Red and
black berries on the palate. Medium bodied
with good fruit expression, fresh acid and
well judged oak.
Drink in 2 to 5 years.
MF 2nd AL 7th GdF 6th CR 5th CE 6th

Quoin Rock Simonsberg 2005
CELLAR PRICE: R125
Nose shows red fruit, spice and some oak.
Palate is medium bodied but well structured.
Fresh acid and firm tannins. Long finish.
Drink in 2 to 7 years.
MF 4th AL 4th GdF 5th CR 7th CE 7th


Onyx 2005 (Darling Cellars) R67.35
Ridgeback 2005 R85
Lynx 2006 ARP R90
Kanu 2005 R90
Koelfontein 2005 R90
Fairview Solitude 2006 R150
Spier Private Collection 2005 R148
Hartenberg The Stork 2005 R284


Douglas Green 2006 (DGB) ARP R38.99
A Few Good Men 2005 (Riebeek Cellars) R45
Diemersfontein 2006 R59
Fairview 2006* R60
Boland Reserve No 1 2005 R65
Van Loveren Wolverine Creek R70
Reserve 2006
Oude Denneboom 2006 R75
Kleine Zalze Vineyard Selection 2006 R77
De Grendel 2006 R80
Welbedacht 2005 (Schalk Burger & Sons) R80
Anura Reserve Syrah Mourvèdre 2005 R90
Nederburg Manor House 2006 R90
Topiary 2006 ARP R90
Amani Pendana 2006 R95
Catherine Marshall 2005 R95
Diemersfontein Carpe Diem 2006 R99
La Motte 2006 R104
Cederberg 2006 R110
Eagles’ Nest 2006 R120
Kleine Zalze Family Reserve 2006 R165
Simonsig Merindol 2006 R170
Boekenhoutskloof 2005 SO R250
Cirrus 2006 (Ernie Els) R350
 

Wellington Reserve 2005 R40
Brampton 2006 * (Rustenberg) R48
Swartland Indalo 2006 R53
Kumkani 2005 * (Company of Wine People) R58
Fort Simon 2005 R76
Tukulu 2005 ARP R76
Raka Biography 2006 R78
Dombeya Boulder Road 2006 (Haskell) R80
Aeternitas 2006 R85
Springfontein Ulumbaza 2006 R89
Amani Forest Myers 2006 R120
Vins d’Orrance Ameena 2006 ARP R125
Glen Carlou 2005 R130
Saronsberg 2005 R135

La Motte Pierneef R150
Shiraz Viognier 2006
Meerendal Bin 159 2006 R155
Boschendal Cecil John R220
Reserve 2005 ARP
Fairview Cyril Back 2006 R250

Bovlei 2006 R26
Arniston Bay 2005 (Company of Wine People) R30
Welmoed 2006 R32
Franschhoek Cellar 2006 R34
Koelenbosch 2006 (Koelenhof) R35
Boland 2006 R38.50
Broken Stone 2006 (Slaley) R42
StellenRust 2006 R44
Stellenbosch Hills 2006* R44.50
Simonsig 2005 R46
Dispore Kamma 2005 R50
Guardian Peak 2006 R50
Altydgedacht 2006 R60
Bellingham R60
with a splash of Viognier 2005 (DGB) ARP
Tamboerskloof 2005 R65
Cloof The Very Sexy 2006 R69
Goat-Roti 2006* (Fairview) R80
Saronsberg Provenance 2005 R80
Spice Route 2005 (Fairview) R80
Kloovenburg 2006 R81
Graham Beck 2005 R84
Groot Constantia 2005 R84
Black Pearl 2006* R85
Boschkloof 2005 ARP R85
Manley 2005 R85
Slaley 2006 R85
Bon Courage Inkará 2006 R90
Andreas 2006 R99
Eikendal 2005 R105
Haut Espoir Franschhoek 2005 R109
Boschrivier 2005 R115
Alto 2005 ARP R115
Muratie 2006 R115
Brahms 2005 R120
Edgebaston 2005 R120
Rudi Schultz 2006 R120
Kevin Arnold 2005 (Waterford) R135
Mulderbosch 2005 R135
Bellingham R140
The Maverick 2005 (DGB) ARP
De Trafford Blueprint 2006 R150
Fairview The Beacon 2005 R150
Saronsberg Full Circle 2006 R155

Stark-Condé Three Pines 2006 R185
Neil Ellis Vineyard Selection 2005 R190
Flagstone R200
Dark Horse 2005* (Constellation)
Luddite 2005 ARP R220
Delheim Vera Cruz 2005 R245
De Trafford 2006 R290
Cloof Crucible 2006 R450

Fish Hoek 2005*(Constellation) R35
Bon Courage 2006 R49
Riebeek Reserve 2005 R55
KWV Reserve 2005 ARP R75
Stark-Condé 2005 R95
Arumdale 2005 R120
Nicolas van der Merwe 2006 R180
Spice Route Flagship 2005 (Fairview) R180
Marianne 2006 R199

PRICES: wines in each quality grouping
are listed in order of ascending price –
all ex-cellar unless otherwise stipulated.

ARP Approximate retail price
SO Sold out ex-cellar
* Bottled under screwcap

WINE TASTERS: Wine writer Michael
Fridjhon (chairman) (MF), wine writer
Angela Lloyd (AL), Cape Wine Masters
Ginette de Fleuriot of retailer winesense
(GdF) and Christine Rudman (CR), with
WINE magazine editor Christian Eedes (CE)