Laborie tasting room review

As winter descends on the Cape, wine lovers increasingly seek out cosy tasting rooms, roaring fires, and liquids to warm the belly.

On a chilly Saturday afternoon our welcome at Laborie, one of the few farms located in the heart of Paarl, may not have been as warm as we had hoped as the young tasting-room attendant seemed to be quite enjoying the slow afternoon, but thankfully he perked up and proceeded to make us feel most at home.

 

The fireplace beckoned and we made a beeline for the oversized leather couches, but warmer days should be spent sitting on the balcony overlooking the vineyards and the famous Paarl Rock.

The farm was named after the La Bri district in France when the first French Huguenot family, the Tailleferts, settled on the farm in 1691. Within seven years they were making palatable wine that, according to French explorer François Leguat, who visited the Cape in 1698, was "the best in the colony and similar to our small wines of Champagne".

We may never know whether Leguat was right, but the Laborie label is not without more recent pedigree, its flagship, Jean Taillefert 2006 (R151) scoring 4 Stars in Platter's, while the Blanc de Blanc 2000 won WINE magazine's Cap Classique Challenge back in 2005. The Blanc de Blanc 2006 (R70) has done equally well, winning its own host of awards.

This exceptionally dry, full-bodied bubbly with its citrus and pear nose and delightfully tangy acidity has established a small cult following among Capetonians who drive out to Paarl to fill their boots. For this reason the Blanc de Blanc 2006 is sadly sold out, but the 2007 should be available for purchase in July 2010.

Despite our disappointment that the Blanc de Blanc was not available for tasting, we opted for a special tasting of eight wines (R25) - olive tastings are also available - beginning with the Sauvignon Blanc 2009, which, although shy on the nose, delivered with a palate of citrus fruits and gooseberries. The limited-edition Chardonnay 2008 (R67) was pleasingly buttery and clean on the palate with unmistakeable vanilla and butterscotch notes.

Later, the silkysmooth, easy-drinking Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 (R52) impressed with a structured, well-balanced palate of dark chocolate, blackcurrants and a hint of spice.

Once one has worked through the wines on offer, a winter tasting should draw to a close with Laborie's Alambic double-distilled five-year-old brandy (R126), produced from Chardonnaybased wine, which won gold at the Concours Mondial de Bruxelles.

It was only when we finished savouring our brandy that we noticed a pamphlet for an unexpected addition to the Laborie experience, over and above the usual restaurant and wedding venue add-ons.

The Anglo-Boer War Monument, just a two-minute walk from the Laborie tasting room, was opened in 2005 to acknowledge the ‘rebel' Cape Afrikaners and other colonists' support of the Transvaal and Free State boers in the Anglo-Boer War.

The sculptures of a man and woman facing each other, surrounded by panels of scenes from the war, are partly illustrative, partly symbolic, and the leafy, calm location is intended to serve as space for quiet reflection. Sadly the monument has been fenced off to prevent vandalism, but one can obtain the key from the staff at the tasting room.

In the Cape winelands, tasting experiences have become rather staid, predictable and very rarely out-of-the-ordinary, so it's refreshing to see that Laborie offers the visitor an extra reason to visit the farm.

Laborie Estate, Taillefert Street,
Southern Paarl
Tel: 021 807 3095
Open for tasting Monday to Friday 9:00 to 17:00, on Saturday between 10:00 and 17:00 and Sunday from 11:00 to 15:00.

NEIGHBOURS OF NOTE
Mason's Winery, Laborie's closest neighbour, also situated in the centre of town, offers tasting of its Shiraz by  appointment only.

Juno is situated a bit further down Main Street and produces the Cape Maidens series as well as the Arthouse series of premium blends. An art gallery is open to the public and a bistro-style restaurant complements the experience.

OVERALL RATING:  ★ ★ ★ ✩
WINES: A few good-value options
SERVICE: Attentive, but could be
more welcoming
AMBIENCE: Relaxed and homely