La Madeleine
Published: 11 Jan 07
Category: Classic Contemporary
But the culinary arts (indeed any art form) don't work like that.
Before anyone accuses me of starting up on an old fogey rant, it's important to point out that creativity is born not made and there are some very young, very creative cooks in South Africa.
But in our rush to celebrate the new entrants into the food industry, let us not dismiss the unique form of creativity that can only come with age. Having a total, confident grasp of core kitchen skills and being in possession of more mind- widening life experience is just as likely to free up a chef to be brave and dynamic as the enthusiasm of youth. There are many ways to skin a cat and some of our longstanding gastronomic legends still skin and cook their cats with great verve and gusto.
Daniel and Karine Leusch recently celebrated their 30th year in the restaurant business. At Pretoria's La Madeleine they serve up some of the most skilled, innovative culinary creations in South Africa. You wouldn't know it from the décor - as you have probably guessed I am a huge fan of La Madeleine but even I will concede that the pine, bistro style chairs and heavy curtains do them no stylistic favours.
While La Madeleine has none of the funky chairs and garish garnishes that those who self-consciously promote themselves as "creative" seem to need, the customer should look past the décor and the lack of inedibly clever toppings onto the plates. There is more modernity and wacky projection of the personal in the food of Daniel and Karine Leusch than anywhere else in Gauteng.
Simply being avant-garde is not that hard - deconstructed dog food topped with a palm-nut foam might be wildly cutting edge but it is unlikely to taste good. What makes La Madeleine special is that it constantly surprises customers without losing sight of the fact that careful flavour combinations are all- important. At La Madeleine the flavours are never less than sublime.
Close your eyes and imagine a culinary tour that guides the diner from witty reinventions of classics (such as the amuse bouche of frothy foie gras spumé) through daring engagements with the most ancient (and hard to source) of African ingredients (argan marinated ceps) and then on into the downright magical.
There is a consommé that arrives in a gravy boat which, when poured over caramelised brioche crumbs, thickens itself into a sauce for the accompanying veal. There was once a lobster which literally made its own sauce before it died. The fish course has been known to come with bouillabaisse martinis sipped through edible handmade pasta straws.
So many good restaurants provide fabulous starters and mains and then retreat into the predictable when it comes to dessert. Thankfully Karine Leusch is the pastry queen of the southern hemisphere. She provides final moments that are understated and delicious. They round off and finish the meal in the manner it deserves. I recently took a very depressed friend to dinner at La Madeleine, so I know for a fact that the mille feuilles of olive oil macerated raspberries can cure broken hearts.
The winelist is wide ranging and well-described. Thoughtful food pairings are offered but never pushed over personal preference. Best of all there is a Normandy cider when you arrive that must make apples everywhere proud. Service is elegant and well informed (and largely provided by the chef himself) with good grasp of course spacing. It is such a relief to be allowed to savour the special in a country that generally favours racing customers through a meal.
Amidst the über chic modernity it is reassuring to find that on a cold night the Leusch's will still remember to make a damn fine cassoulet and that the ultimate in retro-chic - '70s-style choux pastry swans - have not been abandoned.
br />Address: La Madeleine, 122 Priory Road, Lynnwood Ridge, Pretoria. Open Tues-Thurs for dinner, Fri for lunch and dinner, Sat for dinner. BYO R40 Tel 012 361 3667
Food:
Wine list
Ambience:
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But the culinary arts (indeed any art form) don't work like that.
Before anyone accuses me of starting up on an old fogey rant, it's important to point out that creativity is born not made and there are some very young, very creative cooks in South Africa.
But in our rush to celebrate the new entrants into the food industry, let us not dismiss the unique form of creativity that can only come with age. Having a total, confident grasp of core kitchen skills and being in possession of more mind- widening life experience is just as likely to free up a chef to be brave and dynamic as the enthusiasm of youth. There are many ways to skin a cat and some of our longstanding gastronomic legends still skin and cook their cats with great verve and gusto.
Daniel and Karine Leusch recently celebrated their 30th year in the restaurant business. At Pretoria's La Madeleine they serve up some of the most skilled, innovative culinary creations in South Africa. You wouldn't know it from the décor - as you have probably guessed I am a huge fan of La Madeleine but even I will concede that the pine, bistro style chairs and heavy curtains do them no stylistic favours.
While La Madeleine has none of the funky chairs and garish garnishes that those who self-consciously promote themselves as "creative" seem to need, the customer should look past the décor and the lack of inedibly clever toppings onto the plates. There is more modernity and wacky projection of the personal in the food of Daniel and Karine Leusch than anywhere else in Gauteng.
Simply being avant-garde is not that hard - deconstructed dog food topped with a palm-nut foam might be wildly cutting edge but it is unlikely to taste good. What makes La Madeleine special is that it constantly surprises customers without losing sight of the fact that careful flavour combinations are all- important. At La Madeleine the flavours are never less than sublime.
Close your eyes and imagine a culinary tour that guides the diner from witty reinventions of classics (such as the amuse bouche of frothy foie gras spumé) through daring engagements with the most ancient (and hard to source) of African ingredients (argan marinated ceps) and then on into the downright magical.
There is a consommé that arrives in a gravy boat which, when poured over caramelised brioche crumbs, thickens itself into a sauce for the accompanying veal. There was once a lobster which literally made its own sauce before it died. The fish course has been known to come with bouillabaisse martinis sipped through edible handmade pasta straws.
So many good restaurants provide fabulous starters and mains and then retreat into the predictable when it comes to dessert. Thankfully Karine Leusch is the pastry queen of the southern hemisphere. She provides final moments that are understated and delicious. They round off and finish the meal in the manner it deserves. I recently took a very depressed friend to dinner at La Madeleine, so I know for a fact that the mille feuilles of olive oil macerated raspberries can cure broken hearts.
The winelist is wide ranging and well-described. Thoughtful food pairings are offered but never pushed over personal preference. Best of all there is a Normandy cider when you arrive that must make apples everywhere proud. Service is elegant and well informed (and largely provided by the chef himself) with good grasp of course spacing. It is such a relief to be allowed to savour the special in a country that generally favours racing customers through a meal.
Amidst the über chic modernity it is reassuring to find that on a cold night the Leusch's will still remember to make a damn fine cassoulet and that the ultimate in retro-chic - '70s-style choux pastry swans - have not been abandoned.
By Anna Trapido
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Food:
Wine list
Ambience:
Service:
Value:
