La Madeleine
Published: 01 Oct 03
Category: French
La Madeleine opened its doors in Sunnyside in 1984. As you stepped through the unassuming door, you left Pretoria for Paris, so authentic was the ambience of the Parisian bistro Daniel and his wife Karine had created, down to the colour scheme, appointments and posters.
In February 2001 Daniel, known for his ability to recreate himself, relocated the restaurant to his house in leafy Lynnwood Ridge. And the fans followed.
Now the decor is light, bright and Provençal style, with outdoor tables overlooking the pool. And given the passion of the chef, the mood is unbuttoned. There is no written menu. The master himself plays the tables, conjuring up culinary delights in terms that titillate palate and senses. Hear him out - it's a great gastronomic floor show - and if you need a more measured explanation of the daily line-up of dishes, look to a waitress for help.
While presentation matches the build-up, the flavours surpass it. Pace yourself. Your meal deserves leisurely appreciation. While culinary pioneers reduce ingredients to component molecules, which you then mix to please your palate, Daniel does the job for you. The emphasis is seasonal. While summer dishes are delectably light and Mediterranean in summer; winter fare is more robust and classical, like veal in port wine jus with wild mushrooms, or kudu in red wine sauce piquant with cranberries.
Consistently innovative, he builds, rather than destructs. And always with local produce. In true French tradition he believes in terroir, maintains that chefs should have the imagination to work with South African products without having to import - and points to the absence of black truffles in his dishes.
Taking a considered look at his fresh raw material he adds an original twist to unerring combinations of flavour, colour and texture. Marmalade gives an unexpected edge to reduced jus with juicy, batter-encased quail portions; finely diced fresh apple adds crisp contrast to plump scallops and langoustine, infused in a vinaigrette of olive oil, orange juice and red wine vinegar from a mother crock on the mantelpiece. And the elysian La Madeleine signature dish is crayfish injected with champagne sauce.
Enjoy ripe, local cheeses before dessert. Then succumb to the lightest of delectable pastries by Karine, or feast on her fruit-rich creations. Warm cherries melt gorgonzola ice-cream; sweet straw- berries with black pepper and balsamic syrup are crowned with mascarpone and sorbet.
An interesting winelist, well-chosen list with both local and French wines. Prices reflect the chef/patron's belief that "if it's marked up too much, wine is only a decoration". BYO R30
Average 3-course meal from R150
Vegetarian friendly
br />Address: 122 Priory St, Lynnwood Ridge, Pretoria. Tel 012 361 3667. Lunch Tues-Fri, by prior appointment; dinner Tues-Sat. Secure off-street parking. Smoking outside
Food: 5
Wine list4
Ambience: 3.5
Service: 5
Value: 5
La Madeleine opened its doors in Sunnyside in 1984. As you stepped through the unassuming door, you left Pretoria for Paris, so authentic was the ambience of the Parisian bistro Daniel and his wife Karine had created, down to the colour scheme, appointments and posters.
In February 2001 Daniel, known for his ability to recreate himself, relocated the restaurant to his house in leafy Lynnwood Ridge. And the fans followed.
Now the decor is light, bright and Provençal style, with outdoor tables overlooking the pool. And given the passion of the chef, the mood is unbuttoned. There is no written menu. The master himself plays the tables, conjuring up culinary delights in terms that titillate palate and senses. Hear him out - it's a great gastronomic floor show - and if you need a more measured explanation of the daily line-up of dishes, look to a waitress for help.
While presentation matches the build-up, the flavours surpass it. Pace yourself. Your meal deserves leisurely appreciation. While culinary pioneers reduce ingredients to component molecules, which you then mix to please your palate, Daniel does the job for you. The emphasis is seasonal. While summer dishes are delectably light and Mediterranean in summer; winter fare is more robust and classical, like veal in port wine jus with wild mushrooms, or kudu in red wine sauce piquant with cranberries.
Consistently innovative, he builds, rather than destructs. And always with local produce. In true French tradition he believes in terroir, maintains that chefs should have the imagination to work with South African products without having to import - and points to the absence of black truffles in his dishes.
Taking a considered look at his fresh raw material he adds an original twist to unerring combinations of flavour, colour and texture. Marmalade gives an unexpected edge to reduced jus with juicy, batter-encased quail portions; finely diced fresh apple adds crisp contrast to plump scallops and langoustine, infused in a vinaigrette of olive oil, orange juice and red wine vinegar from a mother crock on the mantelpiece. And the elysian La Madeleine signature dish is crayfish injected with champagne sauce.
Enjoy ripe, local cheeses before dessert. Then succumb to the lightest of delectable pastries by Karine, or feast on her fruit-rich creations. Warm cherries melt gorgonzola ice-cream; sweet straw- berries with black pepper and balsamic syrup are crowned with mascarpone and sorbet.
An interesting winelist, well-chosen list with both local and French wines. Prices reflect the chef/patron's belief that "if it's marked up too much, wine is only a decoration". BYO R30
Average 3-course meal from R150
Vegetarian friendly
by Jos Baker
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Food: 5
Wine list4
Ambience: 3.5
Service: 5
Value: 5
