Karoo lamb
Scrubland
Talk of the Karoo typically conjures up images of sweltering summer heat, vast open vlaktes dotted with windmills and crystal clear, starry night skies. It's a mysterious, seemingly boundless landscape, with distant koppies and mountains framing the plains that have been home to a number of sheep farms for over a century.
It's here that many international chefs source lamb and mutton for their acclaimed kitchens. Just ask any renowned South African chef where he or she sources lamb, and the answer is likely to be, "From the Karoo, of course!"
Popular belief is that Karoo lamb is tastier and more flavoursome than lamb from other regions, with variances in taste brought about by the different types of grasses, herbs and shrubbery on which the animals feed. The fragrant bossies impart an unmistakable ‘herbiness' on Karoo lamb that has, perhaps nostalgically, become synonymous with wholesomeness and South African tradition, much like melktert and koeksisters.
Aside from being free-range - and benefiting from all the wonderful flavour advantages of being able to roam the farm freely - as Matthew Gordon of Franschhoek's The Grillroom says, Karoo lamb tastes so good "because they eat so good!"
"I have cooked using some of the finest meat in the world, including the renowned New Zealand and Welsh lamb variations," says Matthew. "Lamb from Wales gets served at some of the finest establishments in London, but there is no comparison in taste and flavour. Local feeding conditions are perfect and South Africa has the best grade meat available anywhere in the world."
"Preparation," says Matthew, "is dependant on the cut you are using. The tougher cuts of lamb need to be treated accordingly. Shanks and stewing cuts need to be cooked for longer at a lower temperature and served cooked through. The more premium cuts like the rack, fillets and rump can be grilled or roasted and served pink. Rosemary and garlic make good partners and bring out the best flavours of each lamb dish."
But whatever method you choose to prepare your lamb, when cooking specifically with Karoo lamb, it's important to highlight the herbaceous piquancy by not overwhelming the meat with copious amounts of herbs and spices, instead allowing the natural flavour of the lamb to dominate.
But how can one be assured that meat from the supermarket will display that world-renowned Karoo bossie flavour? Currently there is no nationally accepted method of certifying Karoo lamb, meaning that in many instances the consumer can never be sure whether the lamb really was reared in the Karoo. To protect the consumer, the Department of Agriculture, together with the University of Pretoria, is working to define and obtain legal protection for a ‘Karoo' meat brand name - but it's a complicated business. As Dr Dirk Troskie, agricultural economics adviser for the Western Cape Department of Agriculture, points out, the Karoo as a region needs to be defined and the characteristics of the product that make it distinctive to that region must be identified. So, much like the wine industry has regions of varying ‘terroir' that make wines unique, ‘terroir' influences are present in Karoo lamb.
In working towards the national certification of Karoo lamb, research conducted by the Department of Agricultural Economics, Extension and Development at the University of Pretoria, defined the Karoo region on the basis of seven plant species, unique to the region, which cover an area from the western part of the Northern Cape, through the southern Free State, Eastern Cape and includes Prince Albert, Laingsburg and Beaufort West in the Western Cape.
Following this mapping, a tasting of Karoo lamb was conducted with a panel made up of expert meat tasters and, using scientific techniques, traced specific flavour characteristics in the meat back to the unique characteristics of the various Karoo plants (illustrating how the sensory experience of wine can be extrapolated to lamb). A consumer survey was also employed and, very importantly, a document outlining production practices for Karoo lamb was drafted.
The next step was to establish the Karoo Development Foundation to safeguard the interests of Karoo lamb (among other unique Karoo products and tourism initiatives). The foundation will meet in mid-October 2010 to finalise the code of production for Karoo lamb and begin the official process of registering Karoo lamb as a certification mark with the trademark office of South Africa, CIPRO. This will mean that any producer that adheres to production methods, as laid out by the Karoo Development Foundation, qualifies for certification.
Until the Department of Agriculture completes its work to protect Karoo lamb, the consumer largely needs to base purchases, especially in the case of small butchers, on trust. However, certain large retailers have developed their own intensive certification processes, such as Checkers' Certified Natural Lamb, established in 2007, which guarantees that the lamb is free-range, free of added hormones and antibiotics and is naturally reared in the Karoo or in the Kalahari.
Going in search of Karoo lamb
Those who have taken the trouble to stop in Graaff-Reinet will be richer for it, having explored the buildings, museums and gardens steeped in illustrious colonial history, all existing under the shadow of the imposing Spandau Kop. Like other Karoo towns, it is of course well known for Karoo lamb and butchers line the main road enticing travellers with signs beckoning "The best droëwors here", "Stock up on Karoo lamb".
But what many don't know is that beyond the butcheries and historical landmarks in South Africa's fourth-oldest town is what is said to be the world's thickest vine. The black acorn vine was planted here in 1870 by Rev Charles Murray in the gardens of his parsonage that today is open to the public as Reinet House Museum. The single stem attained a circumference of 3.1 metres; however, in 1983, fungal rot caused considerable damage to the stem and all the dead wood was removed to prolong its life, leaving a circle of separate stems.
Aside from the historical interest in Graaff -Reinet - there are no less than seven museums in the small town and over 200 national monuments - antique stores line the streets and street-side cafés serve dishes made from local produce, such as apricots, peaches and cheeses from Nieu Bethesda (not to mention melt-in-your-mouth lamb).
Where to stay
While there are many B&Bs in the numerous quaint Karoo towns, to really appreciate the true beauty of the wide-open vlaktes, one needs to immerse oneself in the breathtaking scenery of vast spaces, mountain peaks, thorn trees and wildlife.
Samara Private Game Reserve, which lies 40km from Graaff -Reinet, is situated in the heart of the Karoo on the mystical plains of the Camdeboo. It's a luxurious retreat without being exceedingly opulent, and the colonial-style main house and cottages embrace a Karoo lifestyle with wrap-around balconies and spacious, airy rooms. Riempie stoels, hand-woven baskets and over-sized couches dominate the relaxed décor against the Sneeuberg Mountains, which form a backdrop to the lodge.
It's here that I was introduced to the idea of ‘tunch', a delectable amalgamation of tea and lunch - and then discovered that there is no cellphone reception anywhere on the farm. Bliss!
Samara specialises in ‘Karoo kombuis' cooking - but naturally with a modern twist. Karoo lamb, sourced from nearby farms, features prominently on the menu, and that is after all what I am here for; to sample the best the region has to offer.
Chef Quintinn van Rensberg describes his style as "classic French combined with traditional Karoo - with an added twist". Think Karoo lamb pie served with minted cream mash, rack of lamb crusted with garlic and herbs, with carrot essence and red wine jus, and traditional lamb potjie, meat melting off the bone, with fluffy polenta and roasted butternut. Lamb dishes can be suitably paired with a number of wines from the extensive cellar - the Steenberg Merlot 2006 and First Sighting Pinot Noir 2007 both good options.
WHAT TO DRINK?
Lamb and Pinot Noir are a classic pairing since both typically have delicate flavours, especially if the lamb is prepared with little more than salt and pepper. The smokey, red berry flavours of a Cabernet Sauvignon will work well with lamb that has been more heavily seasoned and spiced, particularly chops that have been thrown on the braai, while the ever-versatile Merlot or Bordeaux-style blend will pair with just about any lamb dish.
Of course, if serving your lamb with pap, a Pinotage will work equally well. And an oaky Chardonnay, believe it or not, can also pair well with lamb, particularly slivers of cold meat.
SAMARA is three-and-a-half hours' drive from Port Elizabeth and 45 minutes from Graaff -Reinet (23km on a well-maintained gravel road). The reserve has its own airstrip for chartered flights.
Rates start at R3 600 per person sharing (including all meals, most beverages and two game drives per day).
For more info, go to www.samara.co.za or call 049 891 0558
