June 2002 Buying Guide: Port

A few months ago South Africa finally signed the long-awaited trade agreement with the European Union. Part of the deal was that South Africa would no longer be able to use the word Port. But that hasn't stopped producers from making the lusciously sweet, heart-warming fortified wines.

 

South African or Cape Port; Late Bottled Vintage, Cape Ruby or whatever you want to call it, there's no doubt that the local product is a damn fine one.

This was borne out by the result of WINE magazine's judging of the Peter Schulz Excellence Awards for 2002.

Within the space of a week I was treated to a tasting of genuine Douro Ports in London with a group of both British and Portuguese port aficionados - and then tasted the best South Africa had to offer a few days later.

Sharing the South African experience were: fellow honorary member of the Institute of Cape Wine Masters Colin Frith, who chaired the panel; one of South Africa's most recognisable producers of this style of wine, Boets Nel of Die Krans; Dirkie Christowitz of Monis; and Sue van Wyk, fresh from a stint of international wine judging in Spain.

There is no doubt that our products are different - but not by that much. Certainly our best examples are very good, while our lesser offerings tend to be of a higher standard than those of the lesser Douro wines.

I have been known to slip South African wines into overseas tastings - with interesting results. One such occasion was four years ago when I included a few fine South African vintage ports into a tasting of Douro ports of the same age - and it was held in the Douro too! Not one taster present said the wines were not Portuguese! And in the overall judging the South African wines were placed in the more hightly rated group of the day.

At this month's tasting the 47 entries - up from last year's 40 - were divided into various categories: white, ruby, tawny, late bottled vintage and vintage/vintage reserve. As it turned out, the winning entry was drawn from the latter three categories.

All judges noted the high overall standard of entries, with only one submission scoring less than 2 Stars - meaning that all bar one were considered "above average".

In previous tastings judges have lamented the lack of typicity of styles and also the fact that samples have been entered in the wrong categories, indicating that the winemakers themselves were somewhat confused about the requirements of the various styles.

With the South African Port Producers Association doing so much over the past few years to educate both the public and winemakers about the styles, this was not a problem in 2002.

Most encouraging for the judges was that so many of the examples were deemed to be "true to style".

There may have been some discussion about certain wines being true rubies - but the debate merely echoed similar discussion I'd heard in London the week earlier.

The nub of the London discourse was that rubies made for the French market differ to those intended for sale on the British market - and that a far wider range of ruby styles is accepted than for vintage, LBV or tawny. But then ruby port IS made for early consumption.

Back home in Cape Town some of the judges commented on the youthfulness of the LBVs, but generally it was felt they were more in character and typical than in previous years.

Still treated as an oddity is white port - and only two entries were submitted, one of which was simply a sweet fortified white.

To select the ultimate Peter Schulz Trophy winner, the top scoring ports of each category were set before the panel and we were asked to rank them 'blind' in order of preference.

The winner: Monis Very Old Tawny 1989 which already boasts a 2001 Veritas Double Gold medal.

Overall the panel was impressed with the samples on offer and believe that local port producers are making something for South Africans to be proud of - a quality product that the rest of the world should take note of, under any name or label.
PETER SCHULZ PORT EXCELLENCE AWARDS 2002

4½ stars

TAWNY MONIS VERY OLD TAWNY 1989 APPROX RETAIL PRICE: R46.00 Extremely well deserving of its 41/2 Stars was the consensus on this winning port. A beautiful example of the tawny style. Medium topaz brown with some red flashes. Plenty of coffee, plums and raisins on the nose. Also hints of vanilla, dried fruit (mebos) and touches of tobacco and marzipan. A complex wine with layers of intriguing flavours. Delicious rich nutty character. Soft and smooth with a long, lingering aftertaste and good grip. Drinking beautifully now, but has the potential to last.

LBV BERGSIG CAPE LBV 1997 CELLAR PRICE: R38.00 Deep purple red hue. Nutty, blackcurrant, chocolate nose with plums, mulberries and cherries on the palate. Big and full bodied with a good structure. Massive in the mouth with a lingering aftertaste. Beautiful balance between fruit, oak, sugar and alcohol. Good grip and well integrated tannins. Drink now or in 5 to 15 years.

4 stars

VINTAGE/VINTAGE RESERVE DIE KRANS VINTAGE RESERVE 1999 CELLAR PRICE: R95.00 Seductive purple colour. Plums, black cherries and soft violets on the nose. Lots of sweet fruit on the palate. A sweetish style with a long soft finish. Needs more time to integrate. A vibrant wine which flits across the palate. Lovely Touriga fruit and well integrated wood and soft tannins. Drink in 3 to 10 years.

3½ stars

RUBY SWARTLAND NV CELLAR PRICE: R20.40 Deep dark ruby purple. Excellent nose of sweet plums and ripe berries. Sweet and juicy with a fruity aftertaste. Light, fresh and fruity - a friendly wine. Soft tannins make for a smooth drink. Acid, spirits and sugar nicely balanced. Drink now or in 2 to 6 years.

2½ stars

WHITE DIE KRANS CAPE WHITE NV CELLAR PRICE: R22.00 Buttercup yellow with a glossy sheen. Gentle aromas of vanilla and raisins on the nose. Clean fresh apricot flavours on the palate with a good balance between fruit, oaking, and acid. Skilful handling of wood and a satisfying long dry finish. Enjoy now or in 3 years.

WHITE

2½ stars Die Krans Cape White Port NV R22.00

2 stars Asara White Port 1998 R45.00

RUBY

3½ stars Swartland Port NV R20.40

3 stars Botha Ruby Port 1999 R17.00 Slanghoek Cape Ruby 1999 R18.00 Riebeek Cape Port NV R28.50

2½ stars Boplaas Cape Ruby Port NV R25.00

2 stars Du Toitskloof Cape Ruby 1999 R21.00 Goudini Port 2001 R27.00 Die Krans Cape Ruby Port NV R28.00 Bergsig Cape Ruby NV R29.00

TAWNY

4½ stars Monis Very Old Tawny Port 1989 R46.00

3½ stars Boplaas Cape Tawny Port NV R36.00 Die Krans Cape Tawny Port NV R44.00 KWV Light 1980 Tawny Port AR R70.00

2 stars Louiesenhof Perroquet Cape Tawny NV R87.00

Wine tasters: Colin Frith (Panel Chairman - honorary member of the Institute of Cape Wine Masters), Dave Hughes (honorary member of the Institute of Cape Wine Masters), Sue van Wyk CWM, Boets Nel CWM and Dirkie Christowitz.

Procedures: Tasting done "blind". Wines poured at 18°C (reds), 14°C (whites). The 20-point scoring system was used: 5 Star = 18 or more out of 20; 4 Star = 16 or 17; 3 Star = 15; 2 Star = 14; 1 Star = 13; No Star = less than 13. Star ratings awarded on the basis of discussion and consensus.