July 2007 - Pick 'n Pay WINE Shiraz Challenge 2007

Shiraz or Syrah, it's the red variety in vogue throughout the Cape winelands these days. Christian Eedes reports on the annual WINE tasting to crown a champion for 2007.

For this year's Shiraz Challenge, co-sponsored by Pick 'n Pay, we reviewed wines primarily from the 2004 and 2005 vintages, whatever producers had released most recently. A few older vintages were included from those cellars considered to possess an established track record (providing there hadn't been any subsequent releases), as were a few Shiraz Viognier blends in which the Viognier component is less than 10%.

The total number of wines rated amounted to 189. This after quite phenomenal growth in the category. But as Jancis Robinson OBE MW observed when here earlier in the year to judge at the Old Mutual Trophy Wine Show, "according to the law of averages" it is almost impossible that of the 500-odd wine producers operating in South Africa the 200 or so Shiraz proponents are all going to have access to vineyards capable of producing top-rated wine.

Nonetheless, the local wine industry is hugely invested in Shiraz, and tasting panel chairman Michael Fridjhon called on his fellow judges to be extra rigorous. "It's a class upon which a lot rides," as he put it.

Another 'instruction' that Fridjhon gave to the panel was to admit the broadest possible range of styles. Consequently, densely coloured, full-fruited wines made according to South Australia's Barossa Valley template were to be treated as just as legitimate as the more peppery, elegant wines that might recall the Rhône.

A particular issue of debate was the use of oak. Fridjhon suggested that local wine commentators have in recent times perhaps been overly "anxious" about barrel maturation as a source of aroma and flavour. He pointed out that the better South African reds come to market far too soon compared to their international counterparts and urged a "slightly greater tolerance" for oak character.

Judging was done over two days and involved three rounds, each serving to narrow the line-up in terms of quality. In rounds one and two, those wines that the panel agreed were deserving of re-assessment were put forward to the next round for more detailed examination. Wines involved in the final round of judging were considered contenders to win the award and panellists were asked to rank them in terms of preference to determine the Top 10.

A clear winner emerged, the Inkará 2005 from Bon Courage in Robertson, with two judges ranking it first, one placing it second and two third. The runner-up was the Crucible 2004 from Darling winery Cloof - one judge ranking it first, one who placed it third, three who had it fourth - and the panel agreed that both wines deserved a
rating of 4½ Stars.

Despite how smitten foreign wine critics are with local Shiraz, it would be absurd to suggest that the category is fully formed. Plantings of the variety have shot up from 1.1% of the national vineyard in 1996 to 9.6% last year and determining a concrete classification of producers will remain difficult in the short term.

Among the Top 10, however, are some of the producers that might be regarded by many as "seeded players" - in itself a sign that order is emerging out of the chaos that is local Shiraz. Also encouraging about the outcome of the 2007 Shiraz Challenge are signs that the general level of quality is improving. Only 14% of the line-up were less than 2-Star quality compared to nearly 22% in last year's line-up, and it was pleasing to see fewer overt faults in evidence. There was also a greater spread of top rated wines: two rated 4½ Stars (the same as 2006) but 13 rated 4 Stars (seven in 2006).

Bon Courage might not be the most predictable winner but this third-generation family farm is increasingly resurgent. Its Jacques Bruére Brut Reserve 2000 triumphed in our 2004 Cap Classique Challenge, co-sponsored by Amorim Cork, and no fewer than 10 of its wines have been rated 4 Stars or better by our panel within the past three years. Regarding the property's Shiraz in particular, the 2001, 2002 and 2003 vintages of the standard label all received 4 Star ratings from us, no mean track record in itself. If anybody expected that a Franschhoek, Paarl or Stellenbosch winery would necessarily take the honours, then perhaps he should examine his prejudices.

 

Best Value - Top 10

Shiraz wines recommended as particularly good value on the basis of their quality/price ratio in the context of the average price (R91) of all the wines assessed

Top 10 wines overall

Boekenhoutskloof Syrah 2004
Bon Courage Inkará Shiraz 2005
Boschrivier Shiraz 2004
Brampton Shiraz 2005 (Rustenberg)
Cloof Crucible Shiraz 2004
Hartenberg The Stork Shiraz 2004
Porcupine Ridge Syrah 2005 (Boekenhoutskloof)
Quoin Rock Simonsberg Syrah 2005
Saronsberg Provenance Shiraz 2005
Woolworths Darling Cellars Shiraz Reserve 2004

Shiraz challenge winners to date:

2007 - Bon Courage Inkará Shiraz 2005
2006 - Saxenburg Private Collection Shiraz 2003
2005 - Kleine Zalze Family Reserve Shiraz 2003
2004 - Simonsig Merindol Syrah 2001

Technical analysis of top two wines

1. Bon Courage Inkará Shiraz 2005 Robertson

Vineyard size: 2 hectares
Avg age: 10 years
Yield: 5 tons/ha
Alc: 15%
RS: 3.4g/l
pH: 3.66
TA: 6.6g/l
20 mths in 30% American oak & 70% French (all new)
800 cases
R85pb ex-cellar

2. Cloof Crucible Shiraz 2004 Darling

Vineyard size: 3.5 hectares
Avg age: 9 years
Yield: 1-2 ton/ha
Alc: 14.83%
RS: 2.2g/l
pH: 3.93
TA: 7g/l
15 mths in French oak (100% new)
350 cases
R295pb ex-cellar

Are you getting what you pay for?

Bon Courage Inkará 2005
CELLAR PRICE: R85
A complex wine that displays concentration while retaining freshness. Nose of red berry fruit offset by oak char and some white pepper. Palate shows great fruit expression and bright acid. Oak needs time to integrate. Long dry finish. Keep for 2 - 5 years.

Cloof Crucible 2004
CELLAR PRICE: R295
Dark fruit, spice and some meaty whiffs. Complex palate with good fruit expression, firm tannins and lively acid. Rich and full-bodied. Berries, pepper and mocha. Drink now or over 5 years.

Savanha 2005
SPIER PRICE: R32
Forward red berry nose with some herbal notes. Medium-bodied with juicy fruit, soft tannins and fresh acid. Drink now.

Porcupine Ridge Syrah 2005*
BOEKENHOUTSKLOOF PRICE: so R45
Aromas of ripe dark fruit, pepper and flowers. Palate shows dark fruit and firm tannins. Well balanced. Drink now or over 5 years.

Brampton 2005*
RUSTENBERG PRICE: R48
Ripe dark fruit and some spice on nose. Full-bodied, rich and sweet on the palate. Soft, sleek tannins. Drink now or over 3 years.

Woolworths Darling Cellars Reserve 2004
RETAIL PRICE: R59.99
Spicy nose. Full-bodied with ripe fruit and firm, chewy tannins. Lots of classical black pepper. Slightly hot finish. Drink now or over 3 years.

Fairview 2005*
CELLAR PRICE: R60
Shy nose. Rich and full-bodied on the palate. Ripe dark fruit matched by overt oak. Needs time to integrate. Drink in 2 - 5 years.

Boschrivier 2004
CELLAR PRICE: R80
Dark fruit, herbal notes and some reductive pong. Juicy sweet fruit on palate with prominent but well integrated tannins. Drink in 2 - 5 years.

Koelfontein 2005
farm PRICE: R80
Dark fruit and dusty oak nose. Sweet, rich and ripe flavours. Oak apparent now but should integrate. Drink in 2 - 5 years.

Saronsberg Provenance 2005
CELLAR PRICE: R80
Dark fruit and some reductive whiffs. Lush berry fruit, dense, supple tannins. Well balanced. Drink now or over 5 years.

Joostenberg Shiraz Viognier 2005*
CELLAR PRICE: R85
Very aromatic, perfumed nose. Palate is medium-bodied with red berry fruit and fresh acid. Drink now or over 2 years.

Quoin Rock Simonsberg Syrah 2005
CELLAR PRICE: R115
Nose of dark fruit, mocha and hint of pepper. Lots of ripe fruit and grippy tannins on the palate. Oak a bit apart - needs time. Attractive, typical pepperiness. Keep for 2 - 5 years.

Lomond Conebush Syrah 2005
APPROXIMATE RETAIL PRICE: R176
Vanilla, dark fruit and pepper bouquet. Toasty oak palate over concentrated sweet fruit. Full-bodied and powerful. Keep for 2 - 5 years.

Boekenhoutskloof Syrah 2004
CELLAR PRICE: so R200
Complex, subtle nose with typical pepper. Red fruit and spice on palate. Medium-
bodied, balanced, elegant. Keep for
2 - 10 years.

Hartenberg The Stork 2004
CELLAR PRICE: R249
Ripe black fruit nose. Full-bodied, rich and powerful. Dark fruit, smooth tannins and fresh acid balanced. Savoury dry finish. Keep for 5 - 10 years.

De Meye Little River 2004 R35
Bovlei Centenary Collection 2005 R60
Boschkloof Syrah 2004 ARP R75
Lomond Syrah 2005 ARP R75
Ridgeback 2004 R85
Arumdale 2004 R120
Edgebaston 2004 R120
Homtini Shiraz Viognier 2003 ARP R154
Stellenzicht Syrah 2002 R160

Dwyka Hills 2005 R18.75
Madala Bin 143 2005 R40
Perdeberg Reserve 2005 R43
Havana Hills 2004 R48.81
Groenland 2004 R49
Dispore Kamma Syrah 2005 R50
Nederburg 2005 R50.60
Robertson Wolfkloof 2004 R51.05
Altydgedacht 2004 R52
Durbanville Hills 2005 RP R55
Herold 2005 R55
Julien Schaal Syrah 2005 R55
Stellenrust 2005 R60
Boland Reserve No 1 2005 R65
Boschendal 1685 2005 R65
Manley 2005 R65
Stellenzicht Golden Triangle 2004 R65
Groote Post 2004 R67
Kaapzicht 2004 R68
Avontuur 2004 R70
Nick & Forti's 2005 R70
Tukulu 2005 RP R73
Groenland Reserve 2004 R74
Boplaas Family Reserve 2005 R75
Groot Constantia 2005 R76
Jordan Syrah 2004 R76
Raka Biography 2005 R78
Goat-Roti 2005* R80
La Cave 2004 R80
Mooiplaas 2004 R81
Joubert-Tradauw Syrah 2005 R84
Graham Beck 2004 R88
Anatu 2004 R90
Stark-Condé Stellenbosch Syrah 2005 R95
La Motte 2005 R98
La Petite Ferme 2005 R100
Saxenburg Private Collection 2004 R100
Thelema 2005 R100
Spier Private Collection 2005 R102
Alto 2004 ARP R110
Sumaridge Syrah 2005 R110
La Motte Pierneef Collection Shiraz Viognier 2005 R117
Saronsberg 2004 R120
Val de Vie 2004 R125
Glen Carlou Syrah 2005 R150
Graham Beck The Ridge Syrah 2002 R150
Rudi Schultz 2005 R150
Simonsig Merindol Syrah 2004 R170
Spice Route Flagship Syrah 2004 R180
Boschendal Cecil John Reserve 2004 SO R189
Cirrus Syrah 2005 R350

Welmoed 2005* R30
Excelsior Paddock 2005 R33
Pulpit Rock Brink Family 2005 SO R34
Simonsvlei 2005 R34.99
Woolworths African Terroir Organic 2005 RP R34.99
Woolworths [What] 2004* RP R39.95
Ruitersvlei 2005 R40
Vredenheim 2005* R40
Dieu Donné 2004 R48
Bon Courage 2005 R49
Nash Family Rhinoceros Hill 2004 R49
Nuy Syrah 2005 R50
Bon Cap Syrah 2005 R55
Diemersfontein 2005 R55
Backsberg Pumphouse 2005 R57.72
Seidelberg 2005 R59
Vertex Reserve 2004 R60
Zevenwacht 2004 R62
Van Loveren Signature Series Res '04 R63
Onyx 2004 R67.35
Bilton 2004 R70
De Grendel 2005 R75
Pulpit Rock 2004 R75
Spice Route 2005 R80
SylvanVale 2005 R85
Ses'fikile Matriarch Reserve 2004 R86.24
Beaumont 2004 R90
Kanu 2004 R90
Avondale Reserve Camissa Syrah 2004 R92.25
Cederberg 2005 R100
Boschendal Reserve Collection Shiraz Viognier 2005 RP R105
Bellingham The Maverick Syrah 2005 ARP R120
Mulderbosch 2004 R130
Seidelberg Roland's Reserve Syrah 2004 R130
De Trafford Blueprint 2005 R135
Stark-Condé Twin Peak Vineyards Syrah 2005 R135
Fairview The Beacon 2004 R150
Flagstone Dark Horse 2005* R175
Luddite 2004 RP R190
Cederberg Teen die Hoog 2005 R225

Rozier Reef 2005* R30
Bonnievale 2004 R30.50
Woolworths Longmarket R32.95
Swartland 2004 RP
Koelenbosch Shiraz 2004 R35
Weltevrede River's Edge 2005 R39
Lategan Family Reserve 2005 R39.50
Windmeul 2004 R39.50
Usana 2004 R40
Spier 2005 R44
Guardian Peak 2005 R50
Swartland Indalo 2005 R50
Fleur du Cap 2005 RP R52.90
Zonnebloem 2005 RP R52.90
Mason's 2004 R55
The Stables Nottingham Road 2005 R55
The Sensory Collection 2004 R59.28
Bellingham Our Founder's 2004 ARP R60
Blaauwklippen 2004 R60
Horse Mountain 2005* R60
Stony Brook 2004* R60
Hercules Paragon 2004 R61
Zandvliet 2005 R61
Zondernaam 2004 R62
Cloof The Very Sexy 2004 R69
Zorgvliet Silver Myn 2004* R70
Middelvlei 2004 R74
Bartho Eksteen 2004 R76.95
Môreson 2005 R78
Black Pearl 2005 R85
Dombeya Boulder Road 2005 R90
Stony Brook Chiteauy Niff de Poep Syrah 2004 R90
Eikendal 2004 R95
Hartenberg 2004 R95
Rudera Syrah 2005 RP R99
Andreas 2005 R99.36
Anura Limited Release Syrah 2004 R100
David Frost 2004 R100
Mount Rozier Mauerberger 2004 R100
Kumkani Triple J 2004 R105
Rietvallei Special Select 2004 R110
Saronsberg 2005 R130
Fairview JakkalsFontein 2004 R150
The Foundry Syrah 2004 ARP R155
GlenWood Vigneron's Selection 2005 R180
De Trafford 2005 R270
Gilga Syrah 2004 ARP R300
Boland Single Vineyard 2005 R400
Columella 2004 ARP R500

Azania 2004 (African Terroir) R39
Bergwater Reserve 2004 R45
Rietvallei 2005 R46
Lourensford Five Heirs 2004* R50
Kumkani 2004* R55
Mortons 2004 R55
Pella Hoogland 2004 R58.50
Major's Hill 2004 R65
Rhebokskloof 2005 R65.50
Weltevrede Bedrock Black Syrah 2004 R69.90
Tamboerskloof Syrah 2005 R75
Blaauwklippen Vineyard Selection 2005 R80
Anthony Smook 2005 R89
Marcel de Reuck Syrah 2004 R89
Akkerdal Syrah 2005 R95
Grande Provence 2004* SO R95
Mont Rochelle Syrah 2004 R95
Anthony Smook Reserve 2004 R137
Marianne 2005 R137
Jack & Knox The Outsider 2004 R150

Also tasted
Southern Lights 2005* SO R39.50
Hazendal 2004 R55
Ruitersvlei Reserve 2004 R60
Naughton's Flight 2004 R70
GlenWood 2005 R85
Lindhorst 2005 R120

PRICES: wines in each Star bracket are listed in order of ascending price - all ex-cellar unless otherwise stipulated

ARP Approximate retail price
RP Retail price
SO Sold out ex-cellar
* Bottled under screwcap

Wine tasters: wine writer Michael Fridjhon (panel chairman), James Pietersen of Vineyard Connection, Master of Wine Cathy van Zyl, with retailer Carrie Adams of Norman Goodfellows and WINE magazine's deputy editor Christian Eedes.