INTERNATIONAL PERSPECTIVE: TIM ATKIN MW (BRITAIN)
Tim Atkin MW, one of the world's leading wine writers and Fairbairn Capital Trophy Wine Show judge, speaks to Sara Steer about slightly mad winemakers and UK price points.
Relaxed and genial, Tim Atkin MW appears to be taking a marathon day's tasting in his stride. His witty asides elicit a few chuckles from his weary colleagues as they soldier on through the seemingly interminable line-up of Cabernet Sauvignon wines.
Later as he sips a very welcome beer, I can't help wondering how this accomplished UK wine authority and thoroughly nice guy avoids looking dishevelled and browbeaten after all those hours of tasting and debating. Presumably years of judging international competitions and assessing the globe's wine regions have galvanised his professional stamina.
Atkin holds a BA degree from Durham University in modern languages and a masters (with distinction) in European Studies from the London School of Economics. He is the wine correspondent of The Observer, has written innumerable articles and books (Chardonnay and Vins de Pays d'Oc) and has also won a string of awards from the Glenfiddich Drink Writer Award (in 1988, 1990, 1993 and 2004) to the Wine Guild of the United Kingdom's Wine Columnist of the Year (in 1991, 1992, 1994 and 1996). He is a former editor of Harpers, the UK trade magazine, he co-authored Grapevine for several years and has presented the wine series, Grape Expectations, on the Carlton Food Network. The list goes on, but you get the picture.
Superbly articulate and well informed, with his finger firmly on the pulse, he offers some fascinating outsider's insights into South Africa's wine industry.
Although it's his 10th visit to South Africa, this is the first SA wine competition he's judged. "I was once asked by SAA to sit on a panel, but quite frankly I'd rather be on holiday in the South of France at that time of the year [August]," he quips. Jokes aside, Atkin admits he loves the country, the people and the wines.
"Every time I come here there are 10 new names I've never heard of - that's what makes it great. The industry is fluid, unlike Bordeaux where the great producers have been around for a hundred years or more," he explains. "Suddenly you've got guys like The Foundry and De Toren popping up out of nowhere.
"I have a personal horror of the food technology approach to making wine. I'm much more interested in the eccentric, slightly mad winemakers out there. The Eben Sadies, Charles Backs and Bruce Jacks of the world. We need more creative maverick souls like these," he says passionately. These are the innovators, not afraid of pushing the boundaries, he explains. He cites Jack and Back as two of the most inspirational marketers. "I've no doubt they can continue to create and produce cutting edge wines. They're only just beginning to hint at what they can achieve," he predicts.
Post-1994 "there's been a flood of young winemakers travelling overseas and picking up invaluable experience. Before it was very restrictive, but now we're seeing an enormous release of creativity," he observes. "You need stories to sell wine. It's much harder to market a company like KWV than a Beyers Truter or an André van Rensburg - there's no shortage of characters in your industry. The country's story as a whole is a pretty good one. It's inspirational to me, both as a journalist and a human being," says Atkin.
But it's one thing to make wines that wow and another entirely to sell the stuff. Varieties that endear themselves to judges and wine hacks' palates may not yet have registered on the average consumer's radar screen. Atkin was impressed with the Semillons and Pinot Noirs in the Fairbairn Capital Trophy Wine Show line-up but concedes these varieties may not be top of the pops with Joe Bloggs yet. "But eventually the consumer will get tired of the Big Five," he anticipates.
A far greater concern for him is that the average price point for South African wine in the UK market is too low. "There is the perception that South Africa is a source of cheap red and white wine, particularly Chenin Blanc," he explains. "Consumers confuse cheapness with value for money. There are some fantastic South African wines in the £6 to £15 bracket that consumers may not even be aware of. They're less aware of the mid and upper end of the market," he comments.
"The UK is very lucky. It's a buyer's market and a cosmopolitan, growing one at that. This puts us in a strong position - there are an awful lot of people clamouring to sell their wines in the UK." If we're to change the general perception of South African wine it's imperative to push past that £5 barrier, he suggests. When it comes to promoting Brand South Africa, he is full of praise for Wines of South Africa's campaigns both in the UK and locally.
As a modern wine industry, South Africa is only 10 years old, he points out. "The industry is still so young, it would be such a shame to become too prescriptive and narrow in your approach. You've got enormous geological and climatic variety to experiment with. There's a temptation to produce what one perceives the market wants, but I'd like to see even more innovation and dynamism."
