Ile Maurice

"This way, mon ami," as he shows us to our cane chairs in a corner on the wide colonial verandah.

By day here you can take in ocean vistas, views the massive Pearls development won't obliterate. On this chilly evening the blinds were down and the heaters on. Inside it's more formal, the dark mahogany chairs complementing the crisp starched tablecloths. Simple, elegant and up to date, with good food to back it up. You just know that Madame Mauvis - now into her 80s - is still very much in control of the kitchen.

A soup was called for - and a very good crab soup it was, its deep flavours hitting the right spot. McDonald (no relation to the editor) dived straight into a special of langoustine and black lentil soup that was exceptional - at R59 every deliciously mouthful was savoured.

The ex-food crit opted for a dish many rave about - the gratin de crabe. An enjoyable rendition of this, the greatest of seafood, even if the bechamel was a little heavy. A previous outing brings back memories of a champion Vichyssoise, but there's also camembert deep fried with almonds and served with redcurrant jelly, calamari creole and battered prawns. Don't forget the pate maison - it's been on the menu since Mauvis's early St Geran days and he daren't take it off.

What would it be for mains? The fish vindaye - that Mauritian classic cooked with turmeric, ginger and garlic - has a reputation, but even the freshest of rock cod did not tempt. There's a page of seafood specialities - sole, langoustines, prawns - all SQ. But somehow, when I see those two capital letters, my heart sinks.

McDonald went for his cholesterol-raising favourite: oxtail. The ex-food crit, thinking of his heart, chose cod salad.

There's duck laced with Grand Marnier, fillet en croute, and a special of lamb loin braised in herbs with a red wine jus. Maybe next time.

Not being one of those people who wails "how can you eat Thumper" every time rabbit appears, I was taken by the rabbit casserole. It was a great winter choice - everything a French casserole should be.

The oxtail was the pick - nicely spiced with cinnamon and cardamom. (I know - I filched the doggie bag for the next night!). The cod salad was, well, a cod salad…

Desserts are limited, but thoroughbred. Cherries in Kirsch, pears in red wine, and don't forget the Crêpes Suzette.

Now Suzette's famous recipe may seem old-fashioned, but it's still impressive - flamed at the table, its boozy, marmalady flavours just fab. A fiery red-head I know insists the crème brûlée is the best - the base a real custard, the burnt sugar crust cracking invitingly under the spoon. This is not one where the entire Russian ice ballet could skate over it unscathed or where the cream sticks to the roof of your mouth for days. Need I say the ex-food crit undid all the good of the cod salad.

The winelist is impressive, what with its 97-bottle selection mostly in the 4 to 5 Star range - and a few golden oldies lying in the cellar. A chat with Mauvis will certainly get him dusting off something special. How about a Kanonkop Paul Sauer '95? All the great and the good are there - Glen Carlou, Meerlust, Jordan, Thelema, Spier, Kanonkop and Springfield. Real Champers makes up the bulk of the sparklers, with Dom Perignon taking a R1 750-sized chunk out of your wallet. And the Ernie Els at R1 200 is apparently a hit with Japanese tourists.

Average cost of a three course meal without wine: R180.

By Frank Chemaly