Dave Hughes reflects on Hidden Malts Whisky

Some might think the release of a range of whisky under the name Hidden Malts a bit strange, but this is not because they have been carefully concealed.The explanation is that these fine malt whiskies, which will naturally appeal to those who appreciate the finest Scots produce, have until now been available only as very rare bottlings. And the name also refers to the fact that the distilleries making these singular malts are rather difficult to find.

 

The four - Glen Elgin, Caol Illa, Glen Ord and Clynelish - were all founded in the 19th century. Each has a distinctive character and is located in a special place - in diverse and remote parts of Scotland.

The first, Glen Elgin, can be found in one of the most heavily populated distillery areas - Speyside.

Like something out of a Harry Potter book, the route to Glen Elgin takes in the village of Fogwatt. Even armed with a map, it's hard to spot the distillery. Its tiled roof is set so low to the ground and its walls so covered with rambling plant growth, that the building appears to be peering out of a flower bed!

Building on Glen Elgin began in 1898, at the height of the distillery building boom - yet it was among the last of those built to come into production, 60 years later.

Upgrades and restoration were undertaken in 1964 to modernise the methods of production. Why this great whisky has not been readily available is that it was used as a key component of other blends.

Glen Elgin is composed and balanced and everything a good Speyside malt should be. As famous whisky writer Jim Murray states: "Just the right amounts of everything, bulked up with dollops of heather and acacia honey."

The other three Hidden Malts all show signs of Scotland's distinct maritime influence.

Scotland is defined by its craggy high and lowlands, pounding seas and large bodies of inland water. It's almost divided by a rift valley with the Moray Firth at the northwest end and the extension which is the famous Loch Ness. Down in the southeast is Fort William, alongside the UK's highest peak, Ben Nevis. If you draw a straight line along these points you come to the island of Islay, situated off the coast of southern Scotland. It is here you'll find Caol Illa.

This unique distillery is situated at the bottom of a cliff, near the ferry, but without direct access from the port. One has to make the difficult trek up the cliff from the port, along a winding road and then descend steeply to the precipice that is Caol Illa, wedged between the rocky beach and cliff. Just by way of useless information… the boilers and stills used in this distillery had to be floated ashore in 1864 since they couldn't be brought in by land. A superbly "hidden" distillery. . .

On the east coast is Glen Ord. I remember nearly wrecking a car on my first visit years ago - and it certainly wrecked my nerves! Seaside cliffs did their damnedest to tempt the car over the precipitous edges… Nowadays this northern Highland road is somewhat easier to navigate. Once there, the distillery is overshadowed by the large maltings next door. These take barley from the Black Isle (intensely cultivated surrounds - a peninsula which extends into the Moray Firth) and process it for distribution to distilleries throughout Scotland.

It's a great place to learn all about whisky production - because the entire process is located on a single level in the distillery and is easy to follow.

Professional, well-informed and extremely friendly guides make any visit to Glen Ord particularly pleasant. The name Ord is now fixed as Glen Ord. Previously their product has been bottled as Glendordie, Ordie or simply Ord.

Further up the coast you will find the quaint town of Brora - the home of Clynelish. The road leads into a well hidden valley, and a magnificent Victorian Pagoda! Part of the old distillery, it was closed down in 1983 after much of the production was moved to the new distillery, built in 1968. It may not be as picturesque as the 1819 construction but its produce is fine enough to make the mouth water - in a style more like island whiskies than mainland malts.

TASTING NOTES
Caol Ila 12 year old (Islay): Characteristic prickly fresh sea-air aromas only run to smokiness after a while, though adding water brings out a smouldering beach bonfire. Sweet to start, this is still unmistakably an Islay, with a lingering, charred-dry finish.

Clynelish 14 year old (Sutherland coast, near Brora): Characteristic scented smoke on the nose is soon joined by light medicinal notes, while adding water brings out an effect like menthol or mountain air. Sweet to start, then typically waxy, with a complex and fragrant nose and an agreeable long finish that leaves a lingering fresh-fruity flavour.

Glen Elgin 12 year old (Speyside): Characteristic sweet heather-honey on the nose leads on to a pleasant malty palate. Sweet to start, then fruity, Glen Elgin is most certainly a typical Speyside, with a complex and fragrant nose and a delicious fruit driven orange blossom finish.

Glen Ord 12 year old (Highland): An immediate maltiness on the nose is joined by hints of peatiness, while adding water brings out a touch of sherry sweetness. Malty and agreeable, Glen Ord has a barley-sugar sweetness and with its spicy, gingery aftertaste this is a well-balanced, medium bodied malt.