Heading heavenward
Heading heavenward
Emma Odendaal discovers that world-class wines and a wide range of restaurants complement the sweeping vistas of the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley.
Hermanus is most commonly known as one of the best landbased whale-watching locations in the world. But in recent history the Walker Bay region has become increasingly known for its wine, with cooling sea breezes producing conditions perfect for growing Pinot Noir, as well as Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc.
Much of the winemaking is centered in the valley known as Hemel-en-Aarde (Heaven-and-Earth), the gateway to a circular route through the Overberg Mountains. Drawing the eye skyward, where the earth famously meets the heavens, is the Kleinbabilonstoring Peak, a moisture-gathering summit which acts as a weather vane for the region.
In 1798, Lady Anne Barnard, famous diarist, socialite and wife of a colonial administrator, took a journey through this valley with her husband John. At that time a network of wagon trails already existed, and her diary tells tales of these dangerous pathways, untouched landscapes and beautiful scenery.
Over 200 years later, as one traverses this valley, it soon becomes clear how it got its name, with spectacular views stretching out over Walker Bay. But it wasn’t always considered to be a beautiful, heavenly place. In the early 1800s, the valley was home to people suffering from leprosy, ostracised from society.
A hospital to house the lepers was constructed in 1817, somewhere near the Grootbos Dam, named ‘Heaven in Earth’ in the missionaries’ native Dutch. Then, in 1846, when the lepers were moved from the valley to Robben Island, the land was granted to a JF Joubert and JDK Reitz, but it was only in 1976 that the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley took a serious approach towards viticulture, today producing several world-renowned wines.
THE ROUTE:
Start at the intersection where the R320 meets the R43, just outside Hermanus, and continue along the winding road through the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley. The tarred R320 becomes a well-maintained dirt road and, without stops, the route, ending at Creation wines, shouldn’t take any more than a leisurely half-hour. You can, however, continue along the dirt road to reach Caledon.
FIRST STOP: WINE VILLAGE
The entrance to the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley is found just outside Hermanus, off the R43, where one turns left onto the R320. Located at this intersection is the Wine Village, which stocks the very best the valley has to offer, as well as a host of other spectacular wines. Don’t be surprised to have a glass of wine thrust into your hand as you walk in the door – the shop assistants don’t take kindly to anyone who refuses – and be prepared to spend at least an hour tasting and browsing.
SECOND STOP: HERMANUSPIETERSFONTEIN SATURDAY MARKET
From the Wine Village, the R320 follows the contours of the Onrus River, first passing Hermanuspietersfontein. Every Saturday the farm hosts a food and wine market where you can stock up on cheeses, homemade pies, breads, pancakes and coffee. This is a popular early-morning spot for breakfast, but you may want to stop for lunch and enjoy a tasting of Hermanuspietersfontein wines free of charge.
THIRD STOP: HAMILTON RUSSELL
Once you’ve filled your belly at Hermanuspietersfontein, take your pick from Whalehaven or Southern Right wine farms, then head a little further up the valley to Hamilton Russell to taste its acclaimed Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. The wines are excellent – although a bit expensive – so the tasting experience is something to savour.
FOURTH STOP: BOUCHARD FINLAYSON
Bouchard Finlayson is just a short distance from Hamilton Russell. From here you can appreciate the valley, blessed with bounteous vineyards, expansive fruit orchards, fynbos hillsides and imposing krantzes. Do your best to convince the tasting-room attendant to allow you to taste the flagship Tête de Cuvée Galpin Peak Pinot Noir (it’s not part of the usual line-up, but perhaps if you ask nicely enough…).
FINAL STOP: CREATION
By now you may have had your fill of the valley’s wine, but if you’re still searching for that perfect Walker Bay Pinot Noir, continue along the R320, passing other notable wineries, including La Vierge, Sumaridge and Newton Johnson. If you can bear another tasting, stop at any of these farms, but be sure not to miss Creation. Delicious canapés are available at the tasting room, paired with the wines on offer – the Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are superb examples of the quality that this region is capable of producing. And, just like the other wineries and restaurants in the area, Creation takes full advantage of the glorious views.
Note: Ataraxia, Spookfontein and Mount Babylon wineries are also situated along this route, but tastings are by appointment.
