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Guala Closures Chenin Blanc Challenge

Published: 14 Jan 10
 

Guala Closures Chenin Blanc Challenge

Based on this year's Guala Closures WINE magazine Chenin Blanc Challenge, it would appear that the top end of the Chenin Blanc category is finally undergoing the premiumisation that industry commentators have so long predicted.

Chenin Blanc Challenge Video

In general, Chenin Blanc still sells at a discount relative to hugely fashionable Sauvignon Blanc: the average price of the 134 wines tasted in this year's Challenge was R55 a bottle compared to R65 in the case of 226 examples of Sauvignon tasted for last year's November issue. However, of the 11 examples rated 4 Stars or better, the average price was R102 a bottle, compared to R77 a bottle for the 39 Sauvignons in the same quality bracket.

It bears mentioning that all 11 wines to rate 4 Stars or better in this year's competition had some kind of wood influence, the use of barrels for fermentation and maturation typically more expensive than making the wine in tank and done to achieve greater complexity. Thanks to these higher levels of quality, Chenin becomes more aspirational and hence more worthy of a price premium.

Put differently, what appears to be happening is top-end wooded Chenin starting to take on a price that is just high enough to make the buyer aware that he is treating himself without actually feeling real pain (overall winner and 5 Star-rated Kleine Zalze Vineyard Selection 2008 at a mere R50 a bottle surely the exception that proves the rule).

When it comes to unwooded Chenin, there is still plenty of good everyday drinking to be had, but it should be noted that in the 15- year history of the competition, unwooded wines have only been judged outright winners twice, namely the L'Avenir 1997 in 1998 and the Mooiplaas Bush Vine 2008 last year.

JUDGING PROCEDURES
There were 134 entries in total. These were tasted blind (with no indication of vintage, cellar treatment or technical analysis) by the five-person panel, scoring done according to the 20 point/5 Star system.

After this first round of judging was concluded, 16 wines were considered to have particular distinction and these went through to a second round where the panel could give them more detailed examination.

Once this round was completed, there was one wine that emerged as the outright winner on the basis of having the highest arithmetic average score, this being Kleine Zalze Vineyard Selection 2008. It rated 5 Stars, improving on the 4 Stars it received in last year's Challenge.

AWARDS
Best Value Chenin Blanc
Kleine Zalze Cellar Selection
Bush Vines 2009
Best Unwooded Chenin Blanc
Simonsig 2007
Best Wooded Chenin Blanc
Kleine Zalze Vineyard Selection 2008
Best Chenin Blanc Overall
Kleine Zalze Vineyard Selection 2008

★ ★ ★ ★ ★ five stars 
Kleine Zalze
Vineyard Selection 2008◆
CELLAR PRICE R50
Alc 15.18% RS 7.3g/l TA 6.9g/l pH 3.19
Golden yellow. The nose shows appealing oxidative character. The palate is rich, full and very expressive. Flavours of tropical fruit, honey and spice. Touch of botrytis. Good line of acidity. Drink now or over the next three years.
MF 18 CE 18 CF 18 MC 18 MN 17

★ ★ ★ ★ ✩ four and a half stars
Kanu KCB 2006◆
CELLAR PRICE R82
Alc 14.02% RS 10.33g/l TA 6.3g/l pH 3.25
Straw yellow, green tinge. Some intriguing leesy notes on otherwise shy nose.Good fruit concentration, well judged oak and bright acidity on the palate. Rich and textured. Flavours of lime through to tropical fruit. Long finish. Drink now or over the next year.
MF 16 CE 18 CF 18 MC 15.5 MN 18

Graham Beck Bowed Head 2008◆
CELLAR PRICE R99
Alc 13.23% RS 5.5g/l TA 6.8g/l pH 3.35
Golden yellow. The nose shows pronounced honey and some toasty oak. The palate is full and intensely flavoured showing dried apricot, honey again and spice. Tangy acidity lends freshness. Drink now or over the next three years.
MF 18.5 CE 16.5 CF 15 MC 18 MN 17

Simonsig
Chenin Avec Chêne 2008◆
CELLAR PRICE R127
Alc 14.2% RS 4.5g/l TA 6g/l pH 3.35
Deep yellow, clear and bright. The nose shows honeysuckle, tropical fruit and some fungal notes. Full but balanced on the palate with juicy fruit, bright acidity and well judged oak. Long finish. Drink now or over the next three years.
MF 16 CE 17.5 CF 17 MC 16 MN 17.5

★ ★ ★ ★ four stars
Fortress Hill 2008◆
FORT SIMON PRICE R40
Alc 14.45% RS 4.5g/l TA 6.56g/l pH 3.37
The nose shows citrus blossom and some honey. An elegant, medium-bodied palate with juicy lem-lime fruit, a touch of spice and bright acidity. Finishes very dry. Drink now or over the next year.
MF 14.5 CE 17 CF 17 MC 15 MN 15.5

Fort Simon 2008◆
CELLAR PRICE R54
Alc 14.1% RS 4.8g/l TA 6.8g/l pH 3.33
The nose shows floral perfume, tropical fruit and honey. The palate is big and bold without being clumsy. Plenty of ripe apricot and peach flavour. Viscous texture, tangy acidity. Drink now or over the next three years.
MF 15 CE 15.5 CF 16.5 MC 16.5 MN 15.5

Simonsig Woolworths
Limited Release 2008◆
WOOLWORTHS PRICE R94.95
Alc 14.2% RS 4.5g/l TA 6g/l pH 3.35
Honeysuckle and wood spice on nose. The palate is rich and ripe with pure fruit supported by well-integrated oak. Flavours of apricot, baked apple and honey. Creamy texture, long finish. Keep for one to three years.
MF 16 CE 15.5 CF 15 MC 17 MN 16.5

Stellenrust 44 2008◆
CELLAR PRICE R95
Alc 12.45% RS 9g/l TA 7.2g/l pH 3.25
Citrus blossom and some yeasty character on an otherwise shy nose. The palate is medium bodied with great fruit purity and lemon-like acidity. Elegant and subtle. Drink now or over the next year.
MF 16.5 CE 17 CF 16 MC 17 MN 16.5

Spier Private Collection 2008*◆
APPROXIMATE RE TAIL PRICE R96
Alc 13.76% RS 1.2g/l TA 6.7g/l pH 3.4
Prominent oak on the nose and palate but concentrated citrus fruit and fresh acidity suggest that the component parts should marry with time. Keep for one to three years.
MF 15 CE 16 CF 17.5 MC 17.5 MN 16

Land of Hope 2008*◆
THE WINERY OF GOOD HOPE
PRICE R125
Alc 13.5% RS 4.3g/l TA 5.34g/l pH 3.53
Hint of oak on otherwise shy nose. The palate is rich and weighty with lots of fruit and oak. Packed with flavour: vanilla, peach and tropical fruit. Drink now or over the next three years.
MF 15 CE 16 CF 17 MC 18 MN 16.5

The FMC
Forrester Meinert Chenin 2007*◆
KEN FORRE STER PRICE R260
Alc 14.5% RS 10g/l TA 6.3g/l pH 3.51
Some developed character on the nose. Big and broad on the palate with dried apricot, tropical fruit, honey and spice flavours. Oxidative in style. Drink now or over the next two years.
MF 16 CE 16.5 CF 16.5 MC 15.5 MN 16.5

★ ★ ★ ✩ three and a half stars
Kleine Zalze
Cellar Selection Bush Vines 2009* R31
Simonsig 2007 R32
Riebeek Reserve 2008◆ R35
Onderkloof Single Vineyard 2007◆ R45
Kumkani 2006*◆ (the company of wine people) R54
Sterhuis 2007◆ R70
Villiera Cellardoor Reserve 2007◆ R72
Welbedacht Bushvine R75
Barrel Fermented 2006*◆ (Schalk Burger & Sons)
L'Avenir Grand Vin 2007*◆ R170
Mulderbosch Small Change 2008◆ R200

★ ★ ★ three stars
Simonsig 2009* R32
Rietvallei 2009* R33
Koelenbosch Houtverouderd 2009*◆ R35
(Koelenhof)
Spier Signature 2009* ARP R35
Villiera 2009◆ R36
Stellenrust 2009* R38
Windmeul R40
Reserve Barrel Fermented 2009◆
Boschendal 2009* R45
Hazendal Wooded 2008◆ R45
Arniston Bay Reserve Barrel Fermented
2008*◆ (the company of wine people) ARP R46.95
False Bay 2009* (Waterkloof) R47
Tokara Zondernaam 2008*◆ R50
Mulderbosch Steen op Hout 2008◆ R59
Mulderbosch Steen op Hout 2009*◆ R59
Beaumont 2009 R60
Kleine Zalze Vineyard Selection 2007◆ R60
Rickety Bridge Paulina's Reserve 2008*◆ R68
De Morgenzon 2008◆ R90
Teddy Hall Reserve 2008◆ R100
Bellingham The Bernard Series Old Vine
2008*◆ (DGB) ARP R127
Rijks Private Cellar Reserve 2007◆ R130

★ ★ ✩ two and a half stars
Oranjerivier 2009* (bottled 30 June) R20.20
Swartland 2009* R22
Bain's Way Bush Vine 2009* R22.50
(Wamakersvallei)
Obikwa 2009* ARP R22.99
Slanghoek Private Selection 2009* R23
McGregor 2009* R23.50
Windmeul 2009 R24
Ashton 2009* R25
Alexanderfontein 2009* (Ormonde) R26
Alvi's Drift Premium Selection 2009 R28.50
Koelenbosch R30
Houtverouderd 2008*◆ (Koelenhof)
Conradie Single Vineyard 2009 R33
Lula Afrika 2009* (Rudera) R35
Pearlstone 2009* (Rhebokskloof) R35
Oude Denneboom Grysbok 2009* R38
Riebeek Limited Release 2009* R38.50
Hazendal Bushvine 2008 R39
Indalo 2008◆ (Swartland) R39
Knorhoek 2008*◆ R42
Painted Wolf The Den 2009*◆ R42
Kanu 2008*◆ R43
Kanu 2009* R43
Nederburg The Winemaster's R44
Reserve Bush Vine 2008◆
DeWaal Young Vines 2009* R45
Fleur du Cap 2009*◆ (Bergkelder) R45
Hazendal Wooded 2007◆ R45
Mooi Bly Cultivar 2009 R45
Zorgvliet Silver Myn 2009* R48
Klipkapper 2009 (Mason's) R55
Deetlefs 2009◆ R59
Tierhoek 2007◆ R62.50
Rickety Bridge R68
Paulina's Reserve 2009*◆
Katbakkies 2008◆ R69
Katbakkies 2009◆ R69
Môreson 2009 R69
Dornier 2009 R75
Graham Beck Bowed Head 2009◆ R99
Teddy Hall Reserve 2009◆ R100
KWV The Mentors 2008*◆ R110
Avondale Les Pleurs 2008◆ R160
The FMC Forrester R260
Meinert Chenin 2008*◆ (Ken Forrester)

★ ★ two stars
BC 2009* (Brandvlei) R16.50
Villiersdorp 2009* (Theewaterskloof) R20
Oranjerivier 2009* (bottled 3 November) R20.20
Welmoed 2009* (the company of wine people) R21
Tulbagh 2009* R22
Lutzville Cool Climate 2009* R22.99
(Cape Diamond Vineyards)
Goudini 2009 R23
Riebeek 2009* R23
Du Toitskloof 2009* R24
Boland Cellar Five Climates 2009* R25
De Krans 2009* R25
Meerkat 2009* (Schalk Burger & Sons) R25
White River 2009* (Bergsig) R25
Bombolini 2007◆ (Onderkloof) R26
Landzicht 2009* R26.55
Bergsig 2009* R29
Groenland 2009* R29
Kaapzicht 2009* R29
Douglas Green R29.99
Vineyard Creations 2009* (DGB) ARP
Babylon's Peak R30
Dryland-Bushvines 2009* ARP
Fish Hoek 2009* (Constellation Wines SA) R 32
Wildekrans 2009* R34
Teddy Hall Summer Moments 2009* R35
Mooiplaas Bush Vine 2009 R37.50
Tukulu 2009*◆ ARP R37.63
Boland Private Cellar R39
Natural Ferment 2009 (Organic)
Protea 2009* (Anthonij Rupert Wines) R39
Hawksmoor at Matjieskuil R39.90
Edward Goudge 2009*◆
Knorhoek 2009* R42
Dornier Cocoa Hill 2009* R45
Rickety Bridge 2009* R48
Graham Beck R49
The Gamekeepers' Reserve 2009*◆
L'Avenir 2008* R50
Virgin Earth 2008 ARP R50
Seidelberg 2009*◆ R53.50
Badenhorst Family Wines R55
Secateurs 2009* ARP
Welbedacht Bushvine Barrel R55
Fermented 2007*◆ (Schalk Burger & Sons)
Zonnebloem R59
Limited Edition 2009 (Bergkelder)
Anura 2008◆ R60
Jordan Barrel Fermented 2008*◆ R69
Villiera R72
Traditional Barrel Fermented 2009 ◆
KWV Cathedral Cellar 2009*◆ R80
Rijks Private Cellar R96
Barrel Fermented 2008 ◆

★ one star
KWV Chêne 2009*◆ R23
Jason's Hill 2009 R29
Franschhoek Cellar R35
La Cotte Mill 2009* (DGB)
Slowine Chenin Blanc R35
Sauvignon Blanc 2009* (Theewaterskloof)
Bon Courage Oak Matured R50
Bruére Gold Reserve 2008◆
Remhoogte 2009*◆ R54
Katbakkies 2006◆ R69

PRICES: wines in each quality grouping
are listed in order of ascending price -
all ex-cellar unless otherwise stipulated

ARP Approximate retail price
* Bottled under screwcap
◆ Wooded

Wine tasters : Wine writer Michael Fridjhon (chair) (MF), WINE magazine's Christian Eedes (CE), honorary member of the Institute of Cape Wine Masters Colin Frith (CF), Wine Judging Academy graduates Michael Crossley of Reciprocal (MC) and Mark Norrish of Ultra Liquors (MN).

 
 
 
 
 
 
Readers Comments
 
 
 
  ................................................................................................................
" I really don't understand why the judges give all the high points to wines with lots of alcohol (winner 15,18%) and/or high RS. This is exactly the opposite where the rest of the world is going for: dry, less alcohol, more minerality (terroir?). How come? "
Udo
 
................................................................................................................
" Thank you for your question and it is pleasure to engage on a matter slightly more intellectual than what usually passes for debate in local wine circles. If you consider Vouvray in the Loire, then it is clear that Chenin Blanc can express itself successfully with a quite a lot of residual sugar. Nevertheless, out of the top 11 wines to rate 4 Stars or better in the 2010 Chenin Blanc Challenge, there were five wines to have a residual sugar of over 5g/l and six under, and while the panel was not unaware of the issue of sweetness, it was ultimately immaterial when it came to deciding the best wines. It must be conceded that the alcohol by volume on the winning wine is particularly high, but then it also has one of the highest measures of total acidity and lowest pHs of the top wines, which on analysis alone makes it something out of the ordinary. High alcohols are an issue that apply not just to the Chenin Blanc category but South African wines in general, a product of our relatively warmer growing conditions. It should be pointed out, however, that out of the top 11 wines, there were six wines with alcohols between 14% and 15%, four under 14% and only one above 15%, which suggests the judges did not operate entirely according to the maxim of “bigger is better”. That all 11 of the top wines involved some use of oak in their production will also be seen as problematic by some. If it is agreed that Chenin Blanc, like Chardonnay, is a noble variety with more inherent complexity and ability to mature with interest than a grape such as Sauvignon Blanc, then the use of oak is pretty much a given. The aesthetic issue therefore becomes whether or not the oak adds to or subtracts from the integrity of the wine: is it merely a flavourant or does it alter the wine in a more profound way? The winning wine was fermented and matured for eight months in second- and third-fill 400l French oak barrels, hardly excessive by most measures and contributed to the distinctive oxidative character in evidence. It bears mentioning that in the 15-year history of the competition, only two unwooded wines have emerged as outright winners: the L’Avenir 1997 in 1998 and the Mooiplaas Bush Vine 2008 last year. This indicates once again that when it comes to making Chenin Blanc of excellence, the use of oak is generally beneficial. "
Christian Eedes
 
................................................................................................................
" Mmmm, not convinced. I was not talking about oak although I admit that is an issue as well. If you look at the top four wines (four and a half stars and five), they all are above 14% and/or above RS 5 gr. Before tasting you could debate with the judges about the style? I believe strongly in chenin blanc, but I would like to see more terroir expression and minerality in the wines. Where are top-performers like De Trafford, Daneel or Lammershoek? I know these wines are high in alcohol or RS too, but it's a shame that they are not competing. "
Udo
 
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WIN one of five double tickets to the Franschhoek Oesfees

The third annual Franschhoek Oesfees (harvest festival) will be held at the Solms-Delta wine estate on Saturday, 27 March 2010 from 11.00 until 21.00. For more. [click here]
 
 

Old Mutual Trophy Wine Show 2010

Everything you need to know about this year's Old Mutual Trophy Wine Show. For more. [click here]
 
 

Tasting editor's choice: March 2010

This month Christian Eedes looks at wines from Zevenwacht, KWV Reserve, Boland Cellar and Eagles’ Nest. For more. [click here]
 
 

Satori

Every neighbourhood should have a few reliable, consistent neighbourhood restaurants. For more. [click here]