Grilled Norwegian Salmon with Asparagus and Saffron sauce

Thomas Sinn of Sinn’s in Gardens, Cape Town, was tasked with matching this month’s Chenin Blanc Challenge winning wine. Fiona McDonald reports.

Austrian born Thomas Sinn is meticulous in his preparation – both of the dish to match the Chenin Blanc Challenge winning wine (Jean Daneel Directors Reserve Chenin Blanc 2006) and his appearance for the accompanying photo shoot.

 

"I really liked the wine – and I’m not usually a fan of Chenin Blanc,” the chef admits, “but I found good rich fl avour and texture and solid structure from the oak. “I usually find that Chenin Blanc can be quite difficult to match to food – because of its versatility. It can be dry, fruity or even sweet.”

His classic training came to the fore and he opted for fish – Norwegian salmon, believing the lightly grilled fish would retain its moisture and delicate flavour. “I would normally pair the salmon with a Sauvignon Blanc because of its acidity but the richness of this Chenin means it works well. The saffron sauce and asparagus complement the simplicity of the dish. I believe this match should be about simplicity and subtlety. This is not the sort of wine which needs to stand up to bold, emphatic or overwhelming flavours.”

Sinn is pleased the 2008 Chenin Blanc Challenge was won by Jean Daneel – and that he was given the task of matching the wine. “I worked with Jean when we were both at Buitenverwachting many years ago. He’s a very talented winemaker.”

It was nearly 20 years ago that Sinn came to South Africa to visit the Constantia wine farm his employer, Christine Muller, had bought. “I never left!” After eight years at Buitenverwachting, Sinn opened up his own restaurant, Blue Danube, that became a Cape classic. Just 18 months ago he felt the need for a change and opened up Sinn’s in the new Wembley Square development. In this new, ultra-modern contemporary airy space the chef is completely at home.

Grilled Norwegian Salmon with Asparagus and Saffron sauce
Serves 1

Season the salmon with salt and cook
on a grill or, very hot pan.
While the salmon is cooking, heat the
asparagus in a pan with butter, salt, water and a
little icing sugar. Remove the salmon when it is cooked to
about medium or to liking.
Arrange the asparagus on a warm plate.
Place the salmon in the centre
and drizzle the warm saffron sauce around.
Garnish with crispy beetroot chips,
crispy fried potato “zest” and a sprig of herb.

SAFFRON SAUCE

1g saffron
200ml fresh mussel stock
200ml cream
pinch of cayenne pepper
2T vermouth
5g butter
Heat the butter in a saucepan and add the saffron.
Gently fry the saffron for a few seconds
and add 50ml water. Simmer for a few
minutes and add the mussel stock.
Keep simmering until almost completely
reduced. Add the cream, cayenne and
vermouth and bring to the boil. Check the
seasoning and consistency. Blend until
completely smooth.
Serve boiling hot.