Gratinata di Salvigina
Constantia Uitsig Restaurant chef Clayton Bell keeps things simple (and reader-friendly) with this match for a Cabernet Sauvignon from Stellenbosch estate Uitkyk. Joanne Gibson reports.
There's good grub to be had at Constantia Uitsig, judging by the troop of baboons helping themselves to grapes ripe for harvest when I drive through the vineyards. But I'm hoping for meatier fare at the eponymous restaurant, a true Cape classic which the late, legendary Frank Swainston left in the safe hands of his head chef and protégé, Clayton Bell, early last year. Bell has been tasked with finding the perfect match for Uitkyk Estate's Carlonet 2005, a 4 Star wine in this month's category review of Cabernet Sauvignon (p. 95). The name amalgamates the surname of Prussian nobleman Hans von Carlowitz, who bought the Simonsberg property in 1929, with the grape variety.
Uitkyk winemaker Estelle Lourens describes the wine as "prunes, berries and spices all in one mouthful" and suggests pairing it with pan-grilled steak, roast beef, oxtail casserole or a hearty lasagne. Does Bell agree? "It's a very good wine with a full body - definitely robust enough to stand up to some strong flavours," he says, revealing that it was a toss-up between two springbok dishes: loin seared medium-rare with caramelised onions and served with a lemon sauce, or Gratinata di Salvigina, a recipe in which the loin is flattened, smeared with basil pesto, topped with mushrooms, sprinkled with parmesan and them simply grilled.
In the end he chooses the latter: "Basil is in season, mushrooms are delicious at the moment, and it's a lighter dish - perfect for late summer. It's also so simple that anyone can do it at home. You don't even have to use loin - a flattened, tenderised piece of leg will do."
As for the dish's compatibility with the Carlonet, he says: "Neither overpowers the other; I'd even say they both bring out the best in each other. But although the wine is very drinkable now, I personally think it should be kept for a few more years. For those who really can't wait that long, I'd definitely recommend decanting it and letting it breathe a little to soften before serving..."
Gratinata di Salvigina
260g springbok loin
6 large brown mushrooms, thinly sliced
3 T basil pesto (see below)
100g grated parmesan
50-60g butter
Salt and pepper
Cut the loin into six equal medallions. Take
a mallet and a clear plastic bag, place one
medallion inside the bag, and gently flatten it
to about 0.5cm. Repeat for all six medallions.
Place the medallions on a flat tray that
you are able to put under your grill, which
should now be turned on high. Season with
salt and pepper, then spread a thin layer of
basil pesto over the meat. Next place the
sliced brown mushrooms onto the pesto,
overlapping slightly. Top this with the grated
parmesan and a few blocks of butter.
Gratinate beneath the grill. This will only
take a few minutes and should never be left
unattended.
Serve with wilted English spinach
and potato bake (which is thinly sliced
potatoes, cream, garlic, salt and pepper,
baked at 175ºC for 25 to 30 minutes).
BASIL PESTO
12 cloves garlic, peeled
500ml fresh basil leaves, rinsed and dried
100g walnuts, shelled
100ml olive oil
150g freshly grated parmesan
Chop the garlic, basil and walnuts in a food
processor. With the motor running, add the
olive oil in a slow, steady stream. Stop the motor,
then add the cheese and seasoning and
mix well. The pesto should be soft and smooth
in texture. Scrape into a container or glass jar, and cover
with a thin layer of oil.
Photographs by Denver Hendricks
