Granny Mouse

And a new chef can either be the saving grace or downfall of a restaurant, but Leanne Roberts (ex-Bushman's Kloof in the Cederberg) adds to the Granny Mouse experience.

The food she creates not only looks and tastes like the work of well-trained and creative chef, it's almost as if she waves a magical, creative spice-and-herb-infused wand in the kitchen, presenting fine dishes, full of tasty surprises.

But be warned. If you want to visit Granny Mouse for dinner or lunch over a weekend, book in advance. Not only do guests staying at this country house (now in the Hall of Fame after excelling in the AA Accommodation Awards as the best large country retreat) fill the restaurant, but visitors from elsewhere too.

My starter of salt and pepper squid was served on a disk of coconut and ginger sticky rice with chilli and orange vinaigrette. The squid was tender and the rice was surprisingly voluptuous in its flavour. A truly creative dish.

My husband's salad of home-cured salmon-trout, served with baby rocket and avo with a citrus vinaigrette was excellent, with the trout cooked to perfection.
General manager Duncan Bruce is behind the compilation of the extensive, descriptive winelist. It's well organized and offers local and international choices - from easy drinking to a serious selection. Unfortunately only two dry white and two red wines available by the glass.

Nevertheless, the winelist has once again received an award of excellence in the Diner's Club Winelist Awards. Good recommendations of wine and food pairings are handy and if, after having decided on your meal, you're still unable to find anything to match on the winelist, walk down to the cellar and browse. Not only are more award-winners to be found but some great other choices too. Prices are commensurate...

My main course was a tasting of veal, according to the chef. A deconstructed veal variety - smoked veal shortbreads with fig and apple chutney, a rosemary tempura veal liver with a hazelnut pomme purée and a veal fillet with wholegrain mustard jus. Every one was special.

My husband is a man who cannot resist oxtail, so he chose the open oxtail pie, served off the bone and between two crisp pastry discs. The meat was soft and loaded with flavour and the Cabernet Sauvignon with it the perfect match.

I wasn't up to dessert but other diners obviously savoured theirs - including the trio of sorbets enjoyed across the table.

One small criticism - the square starter plates were chipped, something I would not have expected at Granny Mouse. Not only the chef, but the well-trained waiting staff, should have prevented these from leaving the kitchen.

Average cost of a three-course lunch is R160, while a three-course dinner will cost around R200.

By Nonnie Dedekind