Grande Provence
Category: Contemporary Classic
In fact, he appeared to have outgrown them when he was named Sunday Times Chef of the Year last July, so it was with high expectations that we arrived for lunch.
We were in good spirits, having spent the morning sampling Champagne and Mèthode Cap Classique at the Franschhoek Investec Magic of Bubbles festival held at the French Huguenot monument.
The restaurant is described as “chic industrial” in style, featuring steel joinery, galvanised metals and skylights, but it was one of those glorious days of early summer (yes, in December…) so we were pleased to be seated outside the 18th century manor house, in the shade of a gnarled oak tree, with views of brilliantly green vines, impossibly purple agapanthus blooms and a deeply blue sky. Rose-tinted spectacles? Our lenses were polarised!
The menus and winelist arrived as soon Franschhoek salmon trout with asparagus and mussels… saff ron infused fish fumet (R120).
Happy (mostly foreign) chatter and the clatter of cutlery on crockery served to whet our appetites further, and we decided to regard the flies that descended on neighbouring tables when the food arrived as a good sign (with citronella candles hastily lit to keep them at bay). While waiting, we sipped the very pleasant if unremarkable Chardonnay and were off ered three delicious breads to nibble on.
No sign of any butter though, and I was just about to ask for some when the starters arrived – after which I used my bread to mop up every last drop! Suffice to say both salads were utterly delicious, their subtle dressings enhancing the depth of flavour of freshly harvested local ingredients, cooked (where appropriate) to just the right amount of soft crunch. Portions were dainty, however, so the speedy arrival of the mains was welcome… Beautiful!
I could have looked at the contemporary artwork that was my scallops for hours had I not been desperate to taste it – and it too hit all the right notes.
At this stage, however, things went downhill. We asked for more water, but our waiter forgot all about it when our neighbours caught him en route to remind him to remove their plates. Then dessert took forever to arrive – we had time to sit and chat; walk around both the gallery and Sculpture Garden; admire the chandelier made from recycled Angels Tears bottles in the Jonkershuis private dining area; and sit and chat some more…
The Champagne poached strawberries with vanilla panna cotta (R47) and warm Belgian chocolate fondant with peanut butter ice-cream, honeycomb and Rooibos tea bavarois (R48) were worth the wait, but having explained that we now needed to leave urgently, we were disappointed that it took some 15 minutes for the bill to arrive, even after asking a second waiter to speed things up.
All in all, superb food in an idyllic setting, but slack service left a slightly bitter taste in the mouth.
Two courses excluding wine: R180.
By Joanne Simon
Address: THE RESTAURANT AT GRANDE PROVENCE ESTATE, MAIN ROAD, FRANSCHHOEK.
Tel: 021 876-8600
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