Giles
The deep red walls of this much-loved establishment are hung with framed comic prints that flicker in the firelight - from Giles to Gary Larson and home-grown Madam & Eve. Tables, dressed with more comic clippings, and comfy chairs are clustered around the roaring fireplace.
The menu is more cosmopolitan than traditional bangers-and-mash though. Perfect for a wintry night, hearty seafood soup was complemented by piping hot pain du table that is better described as a scone than a roll… ideal for dunking in the soup or mopping up the garlicky ricotta cheese sauce that accompanies the superb snails in phyllo pastry.
Main courses are equally substantial and even more appetising, with no more than a passing nod to vegetarian tastes! Steaks, lamb and pies make up the lion's share of the robust menu. We couldn't resist the speciality Beef Wellington - and not just for its sheer retro appeal. Layers of fillet covered with chicken liver duxelle, wrapped in spinach, encased in pastry and surrounded by a red wine and mustard reduction is as good as it gets on a cold winter's night.
A simple grilled fillet is a better option if you prefer your meat rare, because the Beef Wellington fillet is well done… Not that Giles' generous fillet is simple. We opted for a Cape gooseberry and green peppercorn sauce, which was an unusual and deliciously fruity take on a classic peppercorn sauce.
The other sauce options sound equally mouthwatering: lemon dijon mustard and cara-melised onion, chilli mango and pepper, mushroom and garlic. Other tempting items included lamb medallions, served with a generous portion of dreamy dauphinoise potatoes and a cream rosemary sauce, and the kudu pie, consisting of venison marinated in red wine, beer and tomatoes and topped with a lid of flaky pastry.
Desserts are a heartwarming affair. You won't find towers of chocolate and spun sugar, but you will find childhood favourites like chocolate cream pie (as gooey and chocolaty as you remember!), chocolate brownies and pancakes. An Irish Coffee finishes the meal off perfectly but is even better enjoyed in the gorgeous wood-panelled bar area.
House wines Giles Dry and Semi-Sweet White and Red are backed by wines-of-the-month
by the glass (poured from the bottle) and a serious winelist that includes a
smattering of well-priced imports. Given the comfort factor in the menu, you'll
find suitably full-bodied reds (Middelvlei Cabernet for R94,95 and Clos Malverne
Pinotage Reserve for R98,95), plus wooded whites (Hazendal Chenin for R68,95
and Laibach Chardonnay 2002 for R82.95 - only two local wines to rate a vintage).
But we'd have welcomed dessert wine to pair with the puds.
Giles also serves a great weekend brunch on its sunny verandah. Apart from the
regulars, there's a different duo of breakfast specials every week. Whether
it's simple eggs Benedict or open omelettes topped with everything from bacon
to cheese, tomatoes, onions and hash browns, it's a heavenly way to while away
a Sunday morning.
Average three-course meal: R120.
By Sam Alexander
Address: 9 Grafton Avenue, Craighall Park. Tel 011 442 4056. Mon-Sat lunch and dinner, Sat and Sun breakfast, Sun lunch. BYO no charge. Smoking. Guarded street parking.
Food: 3.5
Wine list3.5
Ambience: 4
Service: 4
Value: 4
