Gewürztraminer
APPEARANCE
ON THE VINE: loose, conical bunches – quite small – with little pinky/bronze coloured grapes that are thin-skinned.
IN THE GLASS: as with any other white wine, it can vary from straw to pale gold – but can produce deep golden wines, sometimes with a slight copper or peach hue when made from full or over-ripe grapes, or when it has some bottle age.
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SMELL
Highly aromatic, fragrant wine and one of the most easily recognisable grapes. Odours range from litchis and melons to flower petals, roses, honey and even spice.
TASTE
Honey, apricot, litchi, roses, musky grapiness and even a touch of slightly bitter pith of citrus fruit are often used to describe Gewürz. The flavours range according to the style of the wine – which varies from dry to sweet. A touch of spice and a hint of honey on a mouthful of tropical fruit. On the sweeter ones honey and ripe-apple have been noted. Alsace Gewürz used to be classically dry, though now confusingly sweeter – with nothing to show this on the label. In the Cape, some residual sugar adds flavour and weight, while the dry wines can be slightly bitter on the finish.
ORIGIN
Accepted as the speciality of Alsace, the origins of this grape are a little unclear. Some suggest the variety was once known as Traminer, found in the Italian Tyrol around 1000 AD – a small green grape that wasn't as aromatic as its modern counterpart – and certain ampelographers consider Traminer to be a descendant of a Greek variety brought to Europe by the Romans. Apparently it mutates easily, and it was the pink-berried version of Musqué that generally became known as Gewürztraminer in the 19th century. The variety doesn't do well in warmer climates. Other than in Alsace, it's best suited to the cooler areas of the United States of America, Australia and New Zealand. Germany and central Europe also have some plantings.
IN SOUTH AFRICA
It was planted locally well over 30 years ago – and with limited success, though plantings make up less than one percent of South Africa's total crop. It makes spicy, boldly scented whites of character, and tends to be made as an off-dry or sweeter wine in the Cape.
BEST EXAMPLES
Alsace: Trimbach, Humbrecht or Domaine Weinbach. South Africa: André Bruwer of Bon Courage won the Diners Club Winemaker of the Year award with a Special Late Harvest in 1985; other notables include Altydgedacht, Meerendal’s Natural Sweet, Paul Cluver and Zevenwacht.
AGEING POTENTIAL
The drier Gewürztraminers should probably be consumed within a year. With some of the sweeter style wines, additional maturation will allow the spicy bottle-aromas to develop. The finest from Alsace are extremely serious wines capable of medium-term ageing.
MATCHING WITH FOOD
Goes very well with smoked cold meats, pâté, mild curries (if the wine is sweeter), as well as Thai and Indonesian dishes. Mature cheddar and pungent cheeses also make a good accompaniment.
SERVING TEMPERATURE
Dry Gewürz: 8–14° C. Sweet, semi-sweet Gewürz: 8–14° C. Special/Noble Late Harvest: 8–10° C


