Garnish – to eat or not to eat?

Author: Emma Odendaal
Published: 02 Jul 10
 

Generally speaking I avoid garnish. Call me paranoid, but I've always been suspicious about how many plates it's been on. Of course this paranoia could be extended to just about every aspect of the dining experience (‘Has my steak been dropped on the floor?' ‘Did the waitress sneeze in my soup?' etc, etc.) but it turns out my fear of garnish wasn't quite so unfounded when a colleague found a worm perfectly positioned in the middle of a sprig of parsley in a beautiful bowl of gnocchi. (For the full story - and picture - from Jeanri-Tine click here.)

The incident reminded me of a story told to me a few weeks ago by a high-profile chef. He explained how, many years ago, working in the kitchen of an upmarket Johannesburg restaurant, he decided to track one piece of garnish. He was horrified to find that it landed on over 30 plates of food over the course of two days. (How's that for cost saving?) And that restaurant is still going today....

While the possibility that the garnish was moved from one plate to another has nothing to do with the worm, the fact that it wasn't properly washed (or the plate properly checked by the chef) begs the question; why do restaurants bother with garnish?

Garnish seems to be a necessary evil in a number of restaurants; everything from a slice of limp cucumber and a wedge of under-ripe tomato to a red cabbage leaf stuffed with slimy, brown, grated carrot. Or, heaven forbid, tomato-peel roses (remember those...)

If restaurants are struggling to make ends meet and are looking for cost-saving ideas (and they clearly are if they are recycling a leaf of rocket), then why not do away with garnish all together? I can think of many restaurants that don't go to the trouble of using garnish at all. Just recently I had a delicious lasagna at Atavola in Claremont - with no garnish. Hussar Grill in Rondebosch makes a mean fillet with Café de Paris butter - with, you guessed it... no garnish.

Having no garnish on the plate should not make the meal more unappetising. If anything, it should bring the actual dish to the fore, highlighting its colours and textures. Drown a plate in garnish and I start to get suspicious about what's beneath.

Have you had any nasty garnish experiences?

 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 

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Readers Comments
 
 
 
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" A friend used to carefully push garnish to one side before tackling his meal. After finishing he would meticulously shred the garnish before carefully placing his knife and fork together. "What on earth for?!" was my query the first time I saw him do it. His answer was to ensure no 30-time recycling efforts on the part of the kitchen. Haven't taken to doing it myself but now understand the logic! "
Fiona
 
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" A few years ago i joined some friend at a local restaurant in Oudtshoorn, a establishment i was reluctant to go to in the first place but my strained budget allowed for nothing more, a T bone at such a low price had to be tried. The meal was served on a pre heated cast iron plate and arrived at the table fast enough for our dinner party to ammusingly watch a few unfortunate lettuce leaves fizzle away on the scalding plates reduced to little more than a brown smear of vegetative fibre. The steak was tasty but the lettuce certainly won't be used again ! "
conrad
 
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" Big up to the worm for surviving the Balducci's kitchen.... He deserves to become a butterfly. "
Anonymous
 
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" That little worm seems infinitely palatable, compared to Tasca's wine list. "
Kwispedoor
 
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" Hi Les. Yes, there certainly are some establishments that are more switched on than others. What is particularly worrying is that this occurred in what is widely considered to be one of the top restaurants in the V&A Waterfront. But I'm glad to hear you think SA food is nearly as good as that of Scotland and Ireland, although I think some South Africans will argue that our food is even better! (We're feeling particularly patriotic at the moment!) "
Emma Odendaal
 
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" I've been working around the world for 30 years at industrial catering equipment,you do come across establishments in South Africa more "switched On" than others in international standards of hygiene with regard to Dishwashers,deep cleaning etc.You experience with the garnish is plain bad management and a debacle like that can destroy a restaurant. I believe the food in South Africa is nearly on a par with Scotland or Ireland's natural produce ,although your deep root veg like Potato ,carrot "
Les Calderwood
 
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