Gamay Noir

APPEARANCE

ON THE VINE: bunches are medium-sized, cylindrical and occasionally branched. Slightly oval-shaped juicy berries are medium-sized, tough-skinned and covered in black bloom.

 

IN THE GLASS: a light crimson colour – more pink than dark red.

SMELL

Fresh cherry fruit, raspberry, boiled sweets if made using carbonic maceration; savoury, gamey, spice, herbs and bacon if made conventionally.

TASTE

Pleasant and fruity, an easy-drinking, lighter-style wine – again, if made by carbonic maceration. There are those who refer to Gamay as 'bubble-gum wine' but, in defence of the grape, it can produce full, fruity and spicy-style wines such as the benchmark Beaujolais.

ORIGIN

Famous for the wines of the Beaujolais, Gamay Noir is a native of Burgundy from around the 14th century. It is the opposite of the more refined Pinot Noir, producing cheerful, juicy wine enjoyed by the connoisseur and recommended as a starting point for beginners. True Gamay is produced by the traditional carbonic maceration method: whole bunches, sealed in with carbon dioxide, undergo an automatic fermentation within each berry. At the same time, normal fermentation of juice from the bottom layer of the whole bunches takes place.

IN SOUTH AFRICA

Like many classic European varieties planted here, it hasn't thrived. Gamay Noir in the Cape has experienced mixed fortunes; planted by many growers from the 1920s onwards, it was removed in favour of the heavier-bearing and more consistent Cinsaut. When Nederburg's Günter Brözel launched a nouveau-style Gamay Noir at the 1985 Nederburg Auction lunch, a scant 55 days after harvest, he revived the interest. The following year a handful of Gamay labels appeared on the market. It was also popularised by the now defunct annual Paarl Nouveau Wine Festival. The number of varietal Gamays remains tiny.

ELSEWHERE IN THE WORLD

Beaujolais in France is the spiritual home of this grape. The Côte d'Or winemakers blend controlled amounts of Gamay into their Pinot Noir and the variety is used for blending elsewhere in France. Some is planted in both Canada and California while larger plantings can be found near Geneva in Switzerland.

BEST EXAMPLES

In France: Pierre Charmet, René Marchand and Domaine Lafond.

AGEING POTENTIAL

Grape tannins are usually low and many Beaujolais wines are unwooded but some of the best French examples are oaked and full of intensity. Although not intended to last long, the finer versions develop a smoothness with time. It is generally meant to be drunk within one to three years after the harvest.

MATCHING WITH FOOD

Cold meats; light pasta dishes; smoked meats; spicy sausage dishes; pork and mild curries.

SERVING TEMPERATURE

Between 14° and 16° C.