Franschhoek: Valley of dreams, Franschhoek

Beautiful, chic, charming and endowed with lustrous wineries and gourmet talent - small wonder that Franschhoek is the darling of the haut monde. Fiona McDonald and Marianne Holtman bring you an A-Z of its diverse cellars.

 

Franschhoek is the sort of place where people have epiphanies. I have one every single time I go there. Usually it takes the form of "This is how life must be lived", but sometimes it's more intense: "I'm moving here tomorrow!"

Villages don't come more gifted than this. Surrounded by awesome natural splendour, it was serendipitously cultivated by French Huguenot winemakers 300 years ago. Their legacy of immaculate taste lingers - in the splendid gabled homesteads, in the cuisine served at some of the country's top restaurants and in the wines that its diverse vineyards produce.

Those wines are presently undergoing a second renaissance. The first was initiated by Bernard and Fredagh Podlashuk of Bellingham in the early 1940s and given impetus in the 1960s when business tycoon Anton Rupert bought three properties in the valley for his children (L'Ormarins, La Motte and Fredericksburg, now called Rupert & Rothschild). ,Three major developments are evident.

One is a greater emphasis on quality - mainly through reduced yields, meticulous site selection and the sharing of knowledge and insights. Boekenhoutskloof's Marc Kent is leading the way here, hosting an illuminating monthly tasting of international wines to which all Franschhoek's winemakers are invited. "They're among the best wine tastings I've ever attended," says La Motte's Edmund Terblanche. "Very enjoyable too, especially when Marc gets over-excited and starts pulling out some amazing magnums!"

The second is a shift away from the whites that have traditionally held sway here. Sauvignon Blanc may still be the most planted variety (with 226 hectares), but Cabernet Sauvignon is in second place (196 hectares, double the 2001 figure), and judging from our interviews with the ward's winemakers, Shiraz is the first replanting choice. Sites that in the past were deemed too cool for reds are now increasingly considered ideal for elegant, classic Rhône-style wines, because they retard and prolong the ripening period.
The third development is, of course, the almost frenzied attention being devoted to tourism. The Vignerons de Fransch- hoek has merged with Franschhoek Vallée Tourisme and is delivering an impressively slick and professional service. But there's also a flurry of construction all over the valley as individual wineries invest on an almost unseemly scale in expensive makeovers designed to draw in the visitors. Miles and miles of driveways are being paved, some with grand Venus fly-trap entrances, others with slightly more subtle labial portals.

But maybe if you've had an epiphany in Franschhoek, acted on it and are now contributing to its spirit of largesse, you're entitled to trumpet your delight with architectural fanfare.

By Marianne Holtman

Agusta

Jaco Marais fidgets a little as he speaks. As Agusta's new winemaker, he's evidently raring to go. "This appointment has given me such an energy boost," he explains. "Forget cloud nine. I'm on cloud ten! The cellar is every winemaker's dream. I'd make wine here for free!"

After eight years at Excelsior's huge winery in Robertson, he relishes the opportunity to work in a small, hands-on cellar and to "have time to walk through the vineyards and work closely with the vineyard manager".

Marais has the thoughtful air of an artist, but he considers himself first and foremost a scientist. From predecessor Alastair Rimmer (who was drawn to the States by an opportunity too good to postpone) he's inherited a set-up that's geared to the kind of fine-tuning and attention to detail he considers important. "Everything's in place for us to get to the top," he says. New mountain vineyards include plantings of Cabernets Sauvignon and Franc, Merlot, Malbec, Petit Verdot and Viognier. On the cards is a Bordeaux style red blend under the premium Count Agusta label.

Though Marais has not yet met Count Riccardo Agusta, the farm's controversial owner, he's heard he's immensely proud of his South African cellar. He's been known to phone from Europe, mid-week, to request that a couple of cases be flown out to him for a weekend party. Challenging as the logistics are, come Saturday night the guests of the Count will invariably be sipping Agusta's best.

Akkerdal

Wild boars almost laid siege to Pieter Hanekom's vineyards. "I shot 12 last year," he reveals. "They're incredibly selective, but they do a lot of damage while foraging."
The flagship of his newly established Akkerdal label is a red blend of Malbec, Mourvèdre and Merlot, appropriately called Wild Boar.

Winemaking is a part-time occupation for Hanekom, who's a full-time consultant on crop solutions, sprays, equipment and the like. Through the years he's provided advice to top wine farms and wanted to learn more. So he bought the family grape farm from his father in 1994 and replanted extensively.

Nowadays the farm boasts a wide and interesting mix of varietals, including Viognier, Malbec, Mourvèdre, Roobernet and Petit Verdot. It's supplied Distell with grapes for many years and Hanekom proudly discloses that his Viognier and Semillon can be found under the Fleur du Cap label.

In 1999 he started with a plastic bin at a winemaking friend's cellar. He reckons it's a real passion: only passion could get him out of bed three times a night to work the fruit during harvest!
This year he got to the point "where I had to make up my mind if I was just playing around or whether I was going to get serious" and invested in cooling equipment and new barrels. Plans are afoot for a barrel cellar and tasting room.

Allée Bleue

When Meerrust farm awoke from its 100-year slumber and began marketing its wines under its name last year, Meerlust was peeved enough to call in the lawyers - so the Meerrust wines will probably be marketed under the Allée Bleue label instead. (It means "blue avenue" and refers to the bluegums that line the long entrance drive to the old homestead.)

Owned by the Dauphins, the German family of office furniture fame, the farm also produces organic herbs, olives, mushrooms and fruit, and recently opened a chic deli-café called Café Allée Bleue. A conference centre is due to open soon and a boutique hotel and wellness clinic are also in the pipeline.

About 25 hectares were planted with vines in 2001 but until they're ready for serious production, grapes will mostly be bought in. Winemaking was actually initiated as a little sideline, but the phenomenal success of particularly Allée Bleue's Pinotage (double gold for the 2001 at Veritas and inclusion in Absa's 2003 Top 10 line-up for the 2002) has helped it assume much greater importance.

"We've broadened the range," says winemaker Gerda Willers. Apart from the Shiraz and Chardonnay/Semillon blend already released, there's a Cabernet Sauvignon on its way, a Pinotage-based Natural Sweet and an organic Shiraz, the first wine to be made from the farm's own grapes.

Bellingham

Things are cooking at Bellingham. There's a tangible air of energy and excitement and the "can do, will do" attitude filters from the top down - from boss Tim Hutchinson to marketing and sales person Vera Orffer right through to their dynamic young winemaker Graham Weerts, a recent finalist in the Diners Club Young Winemaker of the Year award.

Bellingham has a historic link with Franschhoek and is a member of the valley's wine and tourism organisation although their wines are now made at their brand new Wellington facility, arguably one of the most modern and hi-tech production cellars in the Cape.

Bellingham's historic homestead a few kilometres outside the town of Franschhoek was for years the residence of Bellingham's founder, Bernard "Pod" Podlashuk. Tribute is paid to this somewhat cantankerous and offbeat individual in two of Bellingham's ranges: the Maverick wines and also the Founders series. To date only a Chenin Blanc and Viognier - both from very special parcels of fruit - make up the Maverick range, while the Founders Series takes over from the erstwhile "super six". Bellingham's varietal wines make up this range - Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz, Pinotage, Merlot, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc.

In the pipeline for 2004 is a Maverick Syrah: a truly Rhône inspired wine, with a splash of Viognier.

Blueberry Hill

The song Blueberry Hill by Fats Domino was playing in the background when Brian and Lindy Heyman were seeking a name for their boutique wine venture.
"We were sitting around with a few friends, mulling over various suggestions, this song was on and my neighbour grows blueberries… so it seemed appropriate," Heyman explains. A full-time accountant, he commutes to Cape Town on a daily basis.

There are just one-and-a-half hectares of grapes - Sauvig- non Blanc has made way for Merlot and last year just six barrels were made from the first crop. "In 2004 it'll be 12 barrels of Merlot - and that's it. No more!"

The wine is vinified at neighbouring Stony Brook. "I'm lucky to have a neighbour like Nigel [McNaught]. He's a great help but makes me work damn hard!"

Boekenhoutskloof

Underestimate Marc Kent at your peril… This self-taught winemaker may look (by his own admission) like a "dope-smoking hippie" but an agile brain lurks beneath the hirsute exterior.

Boekenhoutskloof, arguably Franschhoek's most acclaimed winery, locally and internationally, has grown by leaps and bounds since Kent joined in 1994. "It's been so exciting to see the growth from 6 000 bottles in 1996 to 1,3 million in 2003."

That growth has been built on essentially two ranges of wines. Top of the totem pole is Boekenhoutskloof with its Cabernet Sauvignon, Semillon and exemplary Syrah. (It was a Platter 5 Star wine for four years in a row, but missed out this year. "It hurts," Kent admits.)

But it's Porcupine Ridge that's proved "tremendous". Pick 'n Pay is the biggest wine buyer in the country and Porcupine Sauvignon Blanc is their second biggest seller.
The Wolftrap blend made its debut last year - a great-value quaffing wine. Equally new is the Chocolate Block - a Cabernet Sauvignon/Syrah/Merlot blend positioned between the Boekenhoutskloof and Porcupine Ridge wines.

Boekenhoutskloof was the first in South Africa, more than seven years ago, to introduce a sorting table for hand selecting grapes prior to crushing. Other winemakers have jumped on that bandwagon only in the last two to three years.

Kent's new baby is a computer-controlled hydraulic basket press. "It's amazing. I saw it being used at a number of top chateaux in Bordeaux and had to get one."

Boschendal

Cellarmaster JC Bekker is upbeat about the imminent sale of Boschendal (by Anglo-American to a consortium whose identity had not yet been confirmed as we went to press).

The proposed new upmarket housing development on the property will necessitate the demolition of hundreds of workers' cottages (and a massive relocation of workers to superior houses in nearby Lynedoch). Bekker doesn't believe it will impact on either the 300 ha under vine or the famously elegant historic buildings and gardens. "It's a huge farm, more than 2 000 hectares, and it's a sensitive development, not high density."

Boschendal's quality improvement drive at all levels is ongoing. "We're keeping our yields really low - around four tons per hectare. We're going for concentration and balance, elegance and finesse." Priority number one is better barrel selection.

Bekker's keen to point out that some of their most interesting wines are those that are produced in small quantities and available only from the farm: the newly released Viognier, for instance, and the Jean le Long range.

Cabrière
"The wine must dance with the food," declares Achim von Arnim, winegrower extraordinaire. "Whether it's Ratafia [a fortified aperitif] with duck confit spring rolls or Tranquille [a non-sparkling MCC] with Parma ham, the wine must work magic with the dish." Having built a formidable reputation for flamboyant theatricality (as well as Pinot Noir and bubbly), he strives hard to live up to it, churning the air with exuberant gestures and scattering bons mots as he speaks.

He feels strongly that wine shouldn't be intimidating, shouldn't be placed on a pedestal. "We have enormous fun with wine and like to be adventurous with it." At Haute Cabrière, the underground restaurant adjacent to Cabrière's gravity-fed mountain cellar, he encourages guests to have wine by the glass, to order half portions and share dishes, to explore and experiment. "I believe we've done the marriage of food and wine more professionally than anyone else," he avers.

At Cabrière itself he entertains a growing crowd every Saturday morning at 11 with a talk on MCC and a sabrage demonstration, lobbing off the top of a bottle of bubbly with one mighty swing of his sabre.

The cellar is undergoing expansion, so that around 600 bins of Cabrière's Pierre Jourdan bubblies can be left on the lees for longer ("up to 60 months"). With extra time on the lees, the mousse gets finer, he says, and the wine more complex. An auditorium area will be incorporated, to accommodate his avid audiences.

Chamonix

With his perky hair, glinting ear ring and springy gait, Gottfried Mocke's mien could not be more contemporary, more fresh and New Worldy. Yet the wines he makes are among the most traditional and classically Old World in the valley. Wines designed to develop secondary flavours, wines that need time and patience to deliver their full potential.

"I studied winemaking in Germany," he explains, "and worked harvests in France [Bordeaux], so my ideas were shaped by Europe."

He had just graduated and had barely begun working under his predecessor, Peter Arnold, nearly three years ago, when Arnold decided to move on (to Spain) and the position was offered to Mocke. "Yes, it happened quickly," he says, but he shared many of Arnold's ideas and the transition was a smooth one. The owners (the Hellingers) are very open-minded, he adds, which means he can experiment a lot, something he relishes. "That's the most fun part!"

With all five Bordeaux blend varieties now planted, blends will feature prominently in the future. No grapes are bought in: Chamonix wines are true expressions of terroir and very individual, their uniqueness stemming from the wide range of altitudes and microclimates on the mountain vineyards.

Dieu Donné

With quiet determination and patience, winemaker (and Cape Wine Master) Stephan du Toit has been preparing Dieu Donné for the prominent role it is now beginning to play in the Franschhoek valley.

For six years, he's been sussing out the vineyards and fine-tuning his wines as well as coaxing into existence the new cellar, tasting room and picnic perch.

Situated high on the cool, south-west facing slopes of the Franschhoek mountains, the farm commands a breathtaking bird's eye view over the valley. The terroir is ideal for growing quality grapes: the shady slopes slow down the ripening process, promoting higher-than-average levels of natural acidity, while the unique soil strata (deep Hutton and Clovelly with rocky topsoil) curtail vigour and over-production. "To ensure quality, we keep the harvest down to about six to eight tons per hectare," says Du Toit.

For his red wines, he keeps a close watch on the tannins. "You can't work the grapes properly if you haven't got the right tannins," he says, explaining he works his reds hard, allowing plenty of skin contact and time in wood.

Another wine he's very proud of is the Wooded Chardon- nay 2002, double gold winner at Veritas 2003. The wine underwent no malolactic fermentation (to retain its lemony freshness) and it spent 12 months in wood (half new, half not). "It took a while to get the recipe right," he smiles.

Eikehof

Eikehof cellar nestles, appropriately, in a glade of oak trees at the entrance to Franschhoek.. It's been in the Malherbe family for four generations. When Francois Malherbe took over from his father in the early '90s he decided to both farm grapes and make wine.

"I use about 70 tons of grapes for my Eikehof wines and the rest I sell off to the KWV and other producers." Two blocks of "amazing" vines particularly please him: a 101-year-old Semillon bush vine site and a 60-year-old one.

At the revamped tasting facilities visitors can sample bush vine Semillon as well as Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Shiraz.

Franschhoek Vineyards

You can't miss Franschhoek Vineyards. It's the imposing ivy-clad building at the entrance to the town proper.

MD Daan Coetzee admits that revamping this former co-operative cellar has not been easy. He likens it to turning a supertanker on the high seas. But the era of crushing 12 000 tons is over. Nowadays it's 2 800 tons - still big in anyone's terms - but the resultant wines are focused and market-driven.

"The days of a farmer just pitching up with a load of grapes are gone. The emphasis is on planning - planning which markets to supply and how best to make the wines to do it.

"Smaller is better. We focus on quality and not quantity. We've got a good relationship with our grape suppliers and now buy grapes for specific ranges."

There are three - the Reserve range with only 500 cases each, Franschhoek Cellars range which is widely distributed in South Africa at under R40 for reds and under R25 for whites and the La Cotte range which is popular in restaurants.

"To be brutally honest, until two years ago Franschhoek Vineyards turned out mediocre wines," Coetzee says. No longer, thanks to the young and motivated team in place: winemaker Stephan Smit, assistant Jolene Calitz, and Annette van der Merwe on the viticultural side, with mentorship provided by former La Motte stalwart Jacques Borman.

Glenwood

Winemaker/viticulturist DP Burger admits being a little cheesed off when Agusta won the Fairbairn Capital Trophy for the Best Chardonnay in 2003. "Those were our grapes!" he says, but he's good-natured about it and is looking forward to the release of Glenwood's 2003 Chardonnay after the 2002 wine was listed by SAA for in-flight service.

Since Alistair Wood bought the farm in 1987, only two harvests have been crushed in the cellar. "It's been a long process establishing everything," Burger admits.
"But the vineyards are the key. I've seen this place grow from just two hectares to 30 under vine." Winemaking consultant Cathy Marshall is "worth her weight in gold - although she doesn't weigh much!"

The Robertsvlei valley is on average about five degrees cooler than Franschhoek and quite sheltered. Consequently he's really bullish about Glenwood's Sauvignon Blanc - and instead of the most recent plantings being devoted to Shiraz as planned, more Sauvignon Blanc has gone into the soil.

Although Glenwood produces around 300 tons of fruit, at present only 50 hectares are vinified - hence the selling of fruit to places like Agusta…

"But our turn for the medals and the top ratings will come," Burger says with quiet confidence.

Graham Beck

The Graham Beck brand has two arms: the Robertson operation headed by Pieter Ferreira and the Coastal (or Fransch-hoek) set-up, which gentle giant Charles Hopkins oversees.

Hopkins is the first to admit that making wines in Franschhoek is a privilege, particularly now that the imposing new facility is up and running, complete with bottling plant and ample room for barrel maturation and winemaking.

Hopkins, who launched the fun and funky Pinno last year, is one of Pinotage's staunchest advocates. So much so that he convinced Graham Beck to buy a farm in Somerset West that had a parcel of fruit Hopkins desperately wanted. "It was an expensive decision but one we at Graham Beck haven't regretted."

And yet Hopkins is equally happy to tinker around in his cellar with interesting blends and grapes - like trying to emulate the Rhône producers' recipe of making Syrah with a bit of Viognier.

Other Franschhoek winemakers will also tell you that no matter how busy Hopkins is with his own wines during harvest, when they encounter a problem they can always count on him for advice and guidance.

The latest innovation - a joint effort - is The William, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Pinotage, made from both Robertson and Franschhoek grapes, and named after Graham Beck's grandson.

Jean Daneel

He's simply called his top range of wines the signature series. And all you'll find on the label is his signature because that's the Jean Daneel stamp of approval.

There's no doubt it's a signature that carries weight. Just look at the accolades he's accumulated in his winemaking career - Diners Club winemaker of the year for Merlot in 1992, twice WINE magazine's Chenin Blanc Challenge champion (in 1997 and 2003) and that's before considering medals and star ratings for his wines.

His career has taken him from Constantia to Stellenbosch before settling in a converted stable block in Franschhoek on long-time friend Gert Grobe's farm, Welgegund.

Grapes are purchased from trusted suppliers because he doesn't have any vineyards himself - something he intends rectifying soon.

"My signature red, the 2001 - a blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon and 25% Merlot - is made up of both Stellenbosch and Franschhoek grapes." It gets the full treatment - long and slow vinification before going into 100% new French oak for 22 months.

The prize he received for winning WINE magazine's Chenin Blanc Challenge last year was a trip to France, where he opted to concentrate on the Vouvray region.
Without a doubt Daneel will have gleaned something interesting … and is itching to try it out.

La Bri

A flash of foresight is always useful, and in 1989 La Bri had one. It was the first farm to discover that, contrary to popular belief, the cooler conditions prevailing in the upper part of the valley were perfectly suited to red varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. By the mid-1990s, says Johan Haasbroek, La Bri's general manager, the vines were delivering fruit that was "exceptional".

Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Shiraz have been added to the earlier plantings and today 90% of La Bri's vineyards are devoted to reds, but the rather special blocks of 100-year-old Semillon bush vines have naturally been retained.

Not a single grape needs to be bought in, and the wines are vinified by Stephan Smit in consultation with Jean Daneel at Franschhoek Vineyards.

"What's exciting about the reds," says Haasbroek, "is that they're not the jammy blockbusters you get from warmer regions. Franschhoek's cooler conditions - and later harvests - means they're far more elegantly structured."

La Couronne

The cheekily named Menage à Trois refers to the trio of grapes that make up the La Couronne blend (Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot). Bottom-line is that it's a sexy enough wine for WINE magazine's judges to rate it 4 Stars in its Bordeaux-style blend tasting last year.

Things have been changing apace at this beautiful estate since Austrians Ernst Pichler and Walter Priklopil bought it. Says winemaker Dominic Burke, now entering his fourth season on the estate: "Like me, they're passionate about putting La Couronne wines on the map and are very supportive of new endeavours."

"We've done everything we need to do - now it'll take three years to see some results," he says. He admits he had sleepless nights last year after doubling production overnight by buying in 80 tons of grapes. "But it was fantastic to have the cellar working at full capacity."

"I planted Shiraz and Malbec because they're interesting grapes - and as a winemaker you need to be creative. Having these new plantings means that our wines can enter a different dimension and offer consumers something new."

The focus is unashamedly on red wine (Cabernet Sauvig- non, Shiraz, Merlot, Menage and Rogue's Rouge blends) with a bit of Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc.
A former chemical engineer ("hated it!") who had an epiphany while picking grapes in France, he admits to playing music to his wine - and winery staff. "They love it! A little Piaf, some jazz, a bit of Sinatra…"

La Motte

Like Jacques Borman, his esteemed predecessor, winemaker Edmund Terblanche loves Shiraz. The soils on La Motte tend to be sandy, but the drainage is good, which means it's good for Shiraz. He likes the violets the grapes give, but what pleases him even more is the fact that he has a variety of excellent "building blocks" to play with. La Motte (a Fransch-hoek stalwart owned by Hanneli Koegelenberg, née Rupert,) sources excellent grapes from, among others, two other Rupert-owned farms: one in Darling, one in Bot River.

Terblanche, who was previously Borman's assistant winemaker, says he will be looking for a spectrum of classical Rhône flavours rather than fashionably Australian ones. But he won't interfere too much, in keeping with his "keep it simple" approach.

Expensive new grape sorting equipment was being installed when we visited. "Having the Ruperts' back-up gives me a lot of scope, and a lot of opportunities," he says. "I can, for instance, experiment with different blocks and yeasts." There are other benefits too. The three Rupert-owned properties in Franschhoek (La Motte, L'Ormarins and Rupert & Rothschild Vignerons) not only share management services, but the winemakers do tastings together and freely exchange ideas, experiences and research material.

Landau du Val

La Brie, the beautiful home of Landau du Val wines, boasts some of South Africa's oldest vines - a two hectare block of 98-year-old Semillon vines. They bear very little fruit, but retired industrialist Basil Landau has retained them out of a sense of history and as a nod to the farm's first plantings.

At present only a Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon appear under the Landau du Val label, both vinified by Jean Daneel, but a Shiraz and possibly Pinotage could join them in time.

"Only 9 000 bottles are made every year - we don't want to be any bigger." That equates to a scant 750 cases - so there's no problem with sales since Landau markets his wine personally.

"I take our wines to restaurants where my wife Jane and I enjoy dining, offer them a sample and if they like it, they stock it." His latest listing is at Belthazar, the hi-tech new wine bar in Cape Town's Waterfront. Landau du Val can also be found in Johannesburg restaurants and hotels. It's also showcased at La Cotte, a wine shop in Franschhoek.

La Petite Ferme

Mark Dendy-Young bubbles with irrepressible energy and enthusiasm. Even his conversation bounces around…while at his restaurant and winery there seems to be a constant flurry of building. Under construction at present is a wine bar. Dendy-Young's as pleased as punch that the level below will now become his barrel cellar - giving him four times the space of his current storage in the micro-winery and freeing up room for him to fully engage his sparkling wine project.

"Look at these," he says, pointing out pupitres bearing the Moët & Chandon brand, "they're the original ones from Champagne!"

Soon a blend of Pinotage and Chardonnay will be lovingly nurtured through bottle fermentation.

"I enjoy being both a winemaker and host. I'm so privileged to be able to get immediate feedback about my wine - and to point out the vineyards where the stuff in the glass actually came from."

It all started with a mandatory school project when he was 11. "John Platter lived in the valley - it was before his book - and he helped me with information, explaining how to taste wine and nose it. I was hooked."

Although they make wine mostly for consumption in the restaurant, La Petite Ferme's range includes Chardonnay, Blanc Fumé, Shiraz, Pinotage, Merlot and a Cabernet Sauvig-non Merlot blend.

L'Ormarins

L'Ormarins, a frontrunner of Franschhoek's vinous renaissance in the late 1960s, is now wholly owned by Johann Rupert, listed by Forbes as South Africa's second richest person (after Nicky Oppenheimer) with a net worth in 2002 of $1,1 billion. As CEO of Richemont, the luxury goods group that owns, among others, Cartier and Dunhill, Rupert's passion for super-quality is legendary.

It's a passion that obviously augurs well for L'Ormarins, the 530 hectare farm his father, Dr Anton Rupert, once declared the most beautiful in the world.

There are plenty of changes afoot. A new gravity-fed, state-of-the-art cellar is in the pipeline and the team are in overdrive technologically, harnessing the latest satellite-linked global information systems to pinpoint precisely the best terroir for Merlot, the prime focus, as well as Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. Inferior vines have been ripped out and the word is out that those hectares deemed unsuitable for premium vines are to be converted into stud paddocks.

The new focus on quality has led to a stringent selection process in the vineyards as well as a later, riper picking time. Young Elsenburg-educated and Bordeaux-trained winemaker Riaan van der Spuy believes in gentle vinification with maximum extraction.

An additional drawcard on the farm is the well-stocked Mediterranean delicatessen situated alongside a pretty poolside courtyard and the rather grand tasting room, which is filled with Pierneef originals, Africana antiques and soothing classical music.

Mont Rochelle Mountain Vineyards

At Mont Rochelle everyone agrees wine is about wonderful occasions. "We believe wines should be accessible, easy to drink and, of course, delicious," says winemaker Justin Hoy. "We're not a stuffy, conservative label. For me the greatest reward is walking past a dinner table where Mont Rochelle is on the table, the glasses are empty and everyone's talking, but not about wine!"

Congolese owner Miko Rwayitare, a mobile telephone magnate, will be moving from Johannesburg into the manor house this year. Brimming with plans, he believes the farm is ready for a big marketing push. Designs for a state-of-the-art new gravity-fed cellar and tasting facility have been drawn up - and revised: apparently the aesthetics committee of the town wasn't overly keen on Rwayitare's initial Indian temple-inspired vision.

The focus is increasingly on red wines and to this end more than 8 ha of Shiraz is being planted. The mountain vineyards offer Tukulu and some deep Hutton soils but the sandy soils in the valley can be "challenging" and viticulturist Alwyn Geldenhuys has had to bring in truckloads of topsoil. Most of Mont Rochelle's grapes are bought in, but this may change as Rwayitare is considering buying more land.

Môreson

It's just as well that Anton Beukes, Môreson's general manager, has the broad, muscular build and quick decisiveness of King Henry the Eighth. During the past couple of years a lot of winemakers and viticulturists have come and gone at Môreson, and it's been up to him to ensure that the character of the wines remains constant.

At Môreson "we've always tried to play down the importance of the winemaker," he says, "so that a change of winemaker doesn't affect the wine that much." A consistent approach and quality is what counts, he reckons. But when both winemaker Christo Versfeld and viticulturist Anton Ferreira were recently lured away by exciting new ventures, he decided it would be less disruptive if he filled the two positions himself.

Beukes believes the Franschhoek valley's great potential lies in Shiraz, though many of the vines are still young and need time. Môreson farm is best suited to white varieties though, and the older blocks of Chenin Blanc and Chardonnay are performing particularly well, he says.

With export prices tumbling, causing the industry "big-time burns", Môreson has been focusing on upgrading its point of sale on the farm: the pleasant tasting area and excellent Mediter-ranean-flavoured Bread and Wine restaurant.

Plaisir de Merle

Some technical drama involving the waterproof status of Plaisir de Merle's new labels is playing havoc in the bottling plant on the morning we visit winemaker Niel Bester, but he remains remarkably unperturbed. In fact, it's doubtful whether anything short of a mean old twister from Kansas could ruffle his calm demeanour.

He's been at the helm of this Distell-owned cellar since its launch 10 years ago. From its expansive views across the Groot Drakenstein valley to its restored Cape Dutch manor house and stone mill, the property is an immaculate interpretation of loveliness, but what Bester appreciates most about being at Plaisir de Merle is that it's "blessed with deep, well-drained soils that have predicted a style to follow that has proved very popular".

Reds predominate. The team's proud of its Shiraz (to which the terroir is well suited), but it has over the past few years also been working towards a flagship Bordeaux blend. "Grand Plaisir is coming close," says Bester, "but it still has Shiraz in it." To cater for the Bordeaux blend, all five varieties have been planted. Altitude variations of about 400 metres on the farm mean there's a wide selection of suitable sites.

In the cellar Bester believes "things shouldn't get too complicated". Intervention in the form of fining and sterilisation is kept to a minimum and oaking is done "responsibly". To maintain quality levels while continuing to push up volumes (now around 65 000 cases per year) is Bester's brief. He's confident he's well on track. "Our brand is associated with accessible wines and a lovely experience."

Rickety Bridge

There's been much speculation recently about whether or not owner Duncan Spence was going to put Rickety Bridge up for sale. The news is now out that he's definitely keeping it.

Once part of the old La Provence estate, Rickety Bridge, its cellar and its tasting room has undergone extensive renovations over the past few years. Most of its sales are made at the cellar, to foreign tourists who are seduced by its old Cape Dutch homestead, the lovely views and the wines.

Winemaker Wilhelm van Rooyen is committed to producing quality wines. In the vineyards, "we take no short cuts," he says. "Canopy management is important and we make sure we get it exactly right." In the cellar his modus operandi involves minimal interference, but continuous monitoring.

The Semillons are doing well, he says, and so is the Shiraz. New plantings have focused on the Bordeaux varieties, so production volumes of Paulina's Reserve (currently limited to about 400 cases) may increase in the future.

Rupert & Rothschild Vignerons

The setting: the Medoc region of Bordeaux on a near-idyllic midsummer's evening in 2003. A thunderstorm is brewing and eventually breaks with devastating consequences for St Emilion producers who lose half their anticipated crop.

But at Baron Benjamin de Rothschild's Bordeaux property, Chateau Clarke, where 100 guests have gathered to celebrate the unique South African/French joint venture, only a few millimetres of much-needed rain falls.

Representing the South African half of the Rupert and Rothschild partnership is winemaker Schalk-Willem Joubert and marketing manager Debra Savage. World famous winemaking consultant Michel Rolland talks glowingly of the partnership.

Thousands of kilometres away at the Simondium cellar, far from the pomp and ceremony, it's been a tough year for the R&R team who have had to cope with the void left by the tragic death of driving force Anthonij Rupert. In between running the family's global business empire, brother Johann Rupert has found time to get involved.

The French influence is evident in the small but focused range of wines - the buttery Baroness Nadine Chardon-nay, the elegant and refined Baron Edmond (1999 vintage awarded a gold medal at the 2003 International Wine & Spirit Competition in London) and the Classique - also a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.

Stony Brook

Joy McNaught tells a great story - and the good news is that hopefully those stories will soon be in book form for all to read. Some of her tales about her and husband Nigel's dramas at Rickety Bridge and Stony Brook are almost too good to be true.

Doctor Nigel was commuting to Parow daily and Joy became the remote control winemaker, carrying out his instructions during harvest. "One year all our Chenin Blanc went down the drain… A disaster!"

Joy had been feeding grapes into the crusher, blissfully unaware that with the first jolt of fruit making its way down the pipe, it had leapt out of the tank, leaving mushy grapes all over the floor.

"That was too much for me. I phoned Nigel and said I'd had enough - I resigned. 'Don't bother,' he snarled back, 'you're fired!'."

Then there was the time they mixed up the dose of ascorbic acid that had to go into the Sauvignon Blanc…by a factor of 10! "It was rejected by the Wine and Spirits Board but it tasted absolutely delicious…"

The couple's ability to laugh in the face of setbacks has kept them going. They started out at Rickety Bridge 15 years ago but it was too big to run part time, so nine years ago they moved to Stony Brook. Today they produce marginally more red than white, with their Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz leading the pack.

Von Ortloff

Georg Schlichtmann came to South Africa to do a three-year stint establishing a BMW plant on the Reef. When the time came to move to the next assignment, he and wife Evi decided to move to the Cape instead. They bought the farm Klein Dassenberg and made it the home of Von Ortloff wines. And the Von Ortloff name? "Well, everything in the valley is so French that we wanted to be a bit different. Evi's mother was the last to bear the Von Ortloff name."

First priority when they moved onto the farm in 1993 was replanting - a process that took six years. "We had some amazing assistance from both Jacques Borman and Pietie le Roux of La Motte." As one of the acclaimed architects of the Chamber Music Hall of Berlin, Evi's played an important role in converting the stables and renovating the manor house.

Most of the Schlichtmanns' 3 000 cases of wine (half red, half white) are exported to Germany. "We have the rather nice situation of having established a niche market clientele: my former BMW colleagues visit and buy wine… and then tell their friends in Germany. And if one executive moves to Opel…well, a whole new market opens for us!"

Vrede en Lust

"I don't work to a recipe," says Stéphane de Saint Salvy, the soft-spoken, French-born winemaker of Simondium's newest winery. "I just focus on this specific terroir and use the best grapes."

What he particularly loves about South Africa (apart from his South African wife and baby son) is the freedom to experiment without the constraints imposed by an Appel-lation Contrôlée system. He's been making wine here since 1988 (before joining Vrede en Lust in time for its first harvest in 2002, he was Savanha's winemaker), but his European sensibility is intact. Philosophically down-to-earth observations are made with an effortlessly elegant Gallic shrug.

As befits a son of Bordeaux, he prefers to stick to blends. "When you blend," he says, "you can make a better wine, with greater complexity." The second tier Jacques de Savoye range was recently released, while the first premium label Vrede en Lust wine (from the 2002 vintage) will be ready for release in 2005.

Since Vrede en Lust was given the kiss of life by IT executive Dana Buys, derelict buildings have been immaculately restored and an impressive designer tasting room and conference facilities built.