Fraai Uitzicht 1798
Axel Spanholtz (the host) and Mario Motti (the chef) restored the original homestead, built guest cottages, made Merlot again in the cellar and enlarged the restaurant.
Call in for a lunch of fresh farm salads, home- made pies and herbed mushrooms baked in vine leaves, and take in the view from tables on the terrace. But if you're wanting the full Fraai Uitzicht experience, book for dinner. The warmth of the earthy gold walls is enhanced by ostrich egg candle lamps and a vast log fire in winter. Wooden chairs and tables, sans cloths, accentuate the rustic ambience. (Tablecloths now languish in a cupboard. "They're not us," explains Axel.)
It's food, rather than frills, that captivates: a succession of colourful dishes that play with freshness, flavour and just-picked garnishes. If you have stamina, opt for the degustation menu, each dish accompanied by a glass of wine. I settled for the à la carte, and a taste of the butternut, parsley and smoky bacon soup, recommended for a chilly evening. The bacon came through strongly, lifting the ubiquitous bland butternut, but I found Mario's signature chilled carrot and coconut soup with fresh coriander more adventurous.
Home-made squid ink spaghetti accompanies fresh Norwegian salmon and Japanese spinach, drizzled with a citrus-enhanced soy sauce; rave-worthy rabbit is braised in white wine, rosemary, olives and tomato, bedded on mash, and brightened with fresh farm vegetables.
Those haunted by the Beatrix Potter hero of their childhood will find alternatives like beef fillet with a choice of sauces, authentic veal, and phyllo-wrapped herbed lamb.
For dessert, opt for ricotta and mascarpone tart, with pieces of Belgian chocolate melted in the mix, served with home-made vanilla bean ice-cream. If you crave a richer chocolate fix, order darkly tempting, totally sinful "African dream", with Weltevrede Estate Cape Muscat as the perfect partner.
Fraai Uitzicht Merlot, produced on the premises, is the obvious choice for your meal (R145 for the 2001 vintage). But should you wish to explore, the winelist focuses on Robertson cellars and friendly waiters are knowledgeable.
Giving vintages, descriptions, analysis and food-matching suggestions, the list offers an excellent selection of wines by the glass, and is peppered with quotations. My favourite: "We love cooking with wine… Sometimes we even put it in the food." As an indication of price, Rietvallei Char-donnay 2002 is R59, Springfield Life from Stone 2002 is R89, and Bon Courage Shiraz 2001 is R120. Mature vintages are available.
Average three-course menu: R125. Degus-tation menu: R290 for six courses; R390 for seven, including wine.
By Jos Baker
Address: Off the R60 between Robertson and Ashton, clearly signposted. Tel 023 626 6156. Lunch and dinner Wed-Sun. Booking essential. No smoking. BYO not encouraged. Safe parking on the premises.
Food: 4
Wine list3.5
Ambience: 4
Service: 4
Value: 4
