Fortified Wines

It's added alcohol that sets fortified wines apart from their "natural" or "table" wine counterparts. Though many assume sweetness is also universal, while true for Muscadel, Jerepigo and many ports, it is not always so with Sherry. Timing of the fortification with spirit and precisely how the sweetness (if any) is attained, characterises these wines.

SHERRY

Wine destined for sherry production in South Africa is made chiefly from Chenin Blanc and Palomino, grapes yielding high sugar and acid levels without rasping tannins (which inhibit the activity of flor yeasts). It is fermented dry and inoculated with flor should a fino style be desired.

< p>Maturation occurs in a solera system of tiered barrels, with young wine being introduced into the criadera or nursery level and wine for blending and bottling being drawn from the matured stocks in the lower barrels – the top‑up flow being from new to old. The older wine tempers and tames the young in a process that means sherries are seldom vintage dated.

Dry sherry wine without flor, but with vinous opulence, is called Olorosa. In South Africa the sherry maker will blend flor and Olorosa wines with white Jerepigo for sweetness and shermos (a brown sherry and caramelised grape‑must combination) for colour, with the ratios depending on the desired style.

            Sherry will show a viscous fatness in the glass and will vary in colour from pale to mid‑straw fino styles through golden "cream" versions to full walnut "Old Brown" bottlings.

Fino, the pinnacle of sherry quality, will proffer fresh apple aromas if tasted very fresh with delicate almond and baked bread characters billowing from a newly opened bottle. Here the oxidative nose is most desirable, quite unlike the tired maderisation of poorly aged white wine. Fuller, sweeter cream sherries will retain the oxidative character enhanced by caramel notes. The volatility of the alcohol may be sensed on the nose. The nutty theme continues on the palate, with a delicate dryness in good fino wine.

Top examples hail from Spain, the traditional home of this category that dates back to the 15^th century or earlier, with Croft, Gonzalez Byass, Harvey, Osborne and Sandeman among the leading bodegas.  Top South African sherries hail from Monis (Distell), KWV and Douglas Green (DGB).

MUSCADEL, JEREPIGO

Muscadel and Jerepigo dessert wines are made from Muscat grapes, distinct from non‑Muscat Ports. Jerepigo is intensely sweet grape must that is fortified immediately before any fermentation occurs, while Muscadels enjoy a brief fermentation before added alcohol terminates the process, leaving natural grape sugar in the wine.

White and red versions are made from either Muscat de Frontignan or Muscat d’Alexandrie (Hanepoot) grapes. Colours range from bright and delicate youthful shades to full gold or mahogany with age. The wine's "legs" glide down the inside of the glass.

Grape, raisin and honey aromas abound, with tropical ripe pineapple, apricot and cinnamon. Litchi and ginger add oriental spice. In the mouth, sultana raisins, dried apricots and mellow honey complement the full sweetness, balanced by crisp acid, and all tempered with warming alcohol.

These good value, versatile wines satisfy as an aperitif, enhance cooking and seem made to partner crackling log fires. Top examples from South Africa include Nuy, Monis, Du Toitskloof…