Food critic C Louis Leipoldt and Cuvée
Most people have a tendency towards sentimentality. In the nostalgic hours we always remember yesterday as being better than today, and lament that the future will never be as good as the present. It is a human condition, but had there been an award for the most sentimental bunch of all, then this would've gone to the Afrikaners.
Quite often, when Afrikaners commit the act of nostalgia, food finds reference. C Louis Leipoldt, celebrated Afrikaans poet who was equally revered for his discerning palate, illustrated this Afrikaner bond between sentimentality and food in his writing. As I am typing here I am paging through the faded white pages of one of his works Polfyntjies vir die Proe pausing at the essay titled Ons Kaapse Kombuis in which he laments the disintegration of true Afrikaans cooking in public eating spaces. He fondly remembers Withuis in Strand Street, an establishment where traditional Afrikaans fare was served. Apart from a recollection of the menagerie kept in the backyard – "I remember a young camel which sadly didn't stay alive for very long," he wrote – he also provided a lip-smacking description of this establishment's pancakes, coated with a sauce of eggs, cream and drizzled with Van der Hum (brandy-based tangerine-flavoured liqueur). Upon remembering these he argued that authentic cooking had been banished to everyday kitchens and that food lovers would not find true, traditional fare at restaurants.
Leipoldt didn't fancy the European twist applied to local flavours and preferred his meals to be prepared on an open fire. "Simple but tremendously tasty" was his preference.
Using Leipoldt's stringent methodology to determine the authenticity of traditional fare would be archaic, but I do think he would've approved of the "nostalgic menu" at Simonsig's Cuvée restaurant.
This signature winelands restaurant has introduced a "new" menu full of "old" dishes. Explained as a revived take on old-fashioned charm, some of these nostalgic food choices include "Cape Malay bobotie samoosas with Malmesbury yogurt and Atoinette Malan's Muscat jam, mutton with preserved Cape green figs, pan-fried white fish in orange leaves enriched with artichokes and a light dill butter sauce". In a nod towards Leipoldt's Van der Hum pancakes, diners will also find Cape Dutch pancakes served with home-made marmalade and brandy ice cream. And the soft-crust milk tart is just like my ouma makes it.
It might not be Leipoldt's revered Withuis in Strand Street, and Cuvée's interior might be too modern for sentimentalists, but, yes, I believe the poet in Leipoldt would've been a fan.
Starters on the menu range from R50 to R90, and R90 to R170 for your main course.
Tel: 021 888 4932




