February 2007 - FNB Private Clients WINE magazine Chenin Blanc Challenge

This way and thatAlthough the FNB Private Clients WINE magazine Chenin Blanc Challenge has rewarded some rather extravagant wines in the past, it increasingly seeks to recognize elegance and finesse. Christian Eedes reports on the annual blind-tasting of this category.

 

It is not immodest to claim that the FNB Private Clients WINE magazine Chenin Blanc Challenge, now in its 12th year and with a new co-sponsor in FNB Private Clients, has played a significant role in facilitating the renaissance of the variety in South Africa. It is an annual forum where quality and style come up for discussion and, depending on the results, standards are set for both producer and consumer.

As with all wine competitions, there is always the concern that by its very nature the judges involved end up rewarding the obvious over the subtle. In 2005, the winner was the Rudera Robusto 2002 with a residual sugar of 15,7g/l, and, while the wine's sheer quality was never in question, there were justified concerns voiced by some as to whether this was the stylistic direction that the competition should be promoting.

When this year's panel convened, chairman Michael Fridjhon remarked that the Challenge should not become a "campaign against sugar" but rather a "campaign against the seductiveness of sugar". This might appear a distinction without a difference, but what he meant was that if a wine's residual sugar was seamlessly integrated into the structure of the wine, then there was no reason to penalize it. The issue was therefore not about sugar per se, but the role that sugar plays.

Another point of debate was the role of botrytis. Many of the more ambitious producers use a small portion of wine made from noble rot grapes to lend the final wine richness and weight. Fridjhon remarked that this was a legitimate technique but botrytis character was not sufficient on its own to ensure a good rating.

As for oak, Fridjhon simply said the panel should not reward "flavours that the cooper provided rather than the vineyard".

There were 125 entries this year (compared to 91 in 2006) and to do justice to stylistic differences the panel tasted unwooded before wooded and from dry to sweet. After a rigorous screening process, there were 35 wines that went through to a second round. These included a variety of different styles but were all of sufficient quality that they had a genuine chance of being judged the overall winner.

Ultimately eight wines went through to a taste-off that would determine the champion, with panellists asked to rank their selection. Fridjhon charged the panel to score generously. "When judging Chardonnay, the benchmark is Burgundy. For Cabernet Sauvignon blends, it is the Médoc. But South African Chenin Blanc is now almost without parallel," he said, adding that the panel should not be "embarrassed" to award 5 Stars where appropriate.

Two wines did indeed end up with the magazine's ultimate accolade, namely the KWV Val du Chêne 2004 and The FMC Forrester Meinert 2004, with the former taking overall honours - its victory thanks to two judges ranking it first, one placing it third, one fourth and one fifth. The FMC had one judge ranking it first, two who placed it second, one fourth and one seventh.

What gave the Val du Chêne the edge was its finesse and complexity, compared to the weight and power of The FMC (see analyses). All the more remarkable in that the former is a 250 000-litre blend while The FMC is an unashamed effort on the part of Ken Forrester and Martin Meinert to make an icon wine with production limited to 600 cases, or 5 400 litres. (Messrs Forrester and Meinert must be somewhat frustrated… The Ken Forrester 2005 that they also colluded on was last year's runner-up).

Significantly, both of this year's top two wines also performed well in the 2006 Challenge, with the Val du Chêne getting 4 Stars and The FMC 4½. In addition, the Kleine Zalze Bush Vines 2005 went from 4 to 4½ Stars while the Fortress Hill Reserve 2005, the Kanu Wooded 2004 and the Kleine Zalze Barrel Fermented 2005 retained their 4 Star rating - all of which suggests that a little bottle age is no bad thing for Chenin Blanc made in a serious style.

Making a more general observation, Fridjhon remarked that this was "probably the best line-up of Chenin ever", and with 12 of the 125 wines on display rating 4 Stars or better there are few other categories locally that display such depth of quality or excitement in terms of stylistics. Chenin Blanc's rehabilitation from workhorse to show pony is complete.

Judging procedures

The challenge judging took place over two days. On the first day, the five-person panel blind-tasted all of the 125 wines in the line-up, with scoring done according to the 20 point/5 Star system. During every session, each panel member started at a different point in the line-up to mitigate the effects of palate fatigue.

Once the panellists had assessed the line-up independently, star ratings were awarded on the basis of discussion rather than relying solely on arithmetical averages. Those wines that the panel agreed had particular distinction were put forward for more detailed examination.

The result was that 35 wines went through to the final day, with these again scored according to the 20 point/5 Star system. Following debate among the panellists, eight wines emerged as contenders to win the competition and these were re-tasted, with the panellists asked to rank the wines in terms of preference to determine final placings and to agree on their final ratings.

Best Value - Top 10

Wines recommended as particularly good value on the basis of their quality/price ratio in the context of the average price (R44.28) of the 125 wines assessed

Are you getting what you pay for?

Average price of all of the 125 wines tasted: R44.28
Average price of 4 wines rated 4½ to 5 Stars: R98.50
Average price of 12 wines rated 4 to 4½ Stars: R65.08
Average price of 42 wines rated 3 to 3½ Stars: R44.13
Average price of 57 wines rated 2 to 2½ Stars: R40.46
Average price of 12 wines less than 2 Stars: R26.54

Eight finalists

1. KWV Val du Chêne 2004
2. The FMC Forrester Meinert 2004
3. Bellingham The Maverick 2005
3. Kleine Zalze Bush Vines 2005
5. Kleine Zalze Barrel Fermented 2005
6. Mulderbosch Steen op Hout 2006
7. Katbakkies 2004
8. Beaumont Hope Marguerite 2005

Analyses of top two wines

CHENIN BLANC


KWV Val du Chêne Chenin Blanc 2004
CELLAR PRICE: R45
Nose shows honey and some waxy, slightly developed notes. Palate is medium bodied and elegant. Fruit balanced by tangy acid. Limes, spice and some vegetal character. Long dry finish. Drink now or over 5 years.
MF 18 DH 16 MC 17 MM 18.5 CE 18

The FMC Forrester Meinert Chenin 2004
KEN FORRESTER PRICE: R230
Complex nose with tropical fruit, honey and oak. Also some botrytis character. Palate rich and sweet - spectrum of flavours from citrus through peach and apricot to melon, butterscotch too. Voluptuous texture. Long finish. Drink now or over 5 years.
MF 18 DH 19 MC 18 MM 18.5 CE 16

Kleine Zalze Bush Vines Chenin Blanc 2005 o
CELLAR PRICE: R29
Nose shows tropical fruit, honey and spice. Rich and ripe on the palate. Sweet yet good acid balance. Drink now or over 3 years.
MF 17 DH 18 MC 18 MM 17 CE 16

Bellingham The Maverick Chenin Blanc 2005
APPROXIMATE RETAIL PRICE: R90
Tropical fruit, honey and toasty oak aromas. Full and rounded in the mouth. Some botrytis character. Zesty acid provides balance. Drink now or over 5 years.
MF 17.5 DH 17 MC 16 MM 17.5 CE 18

Hazendal Wooded Chenin Blanc 2005
CELLAR PRICE: R32
Nose shows honey, oak and some waxy, funky character. Medium to full-bodied. Very good integration between fruit, acid and oak. Drink now or over the 5 years.
MF 16.5 DH 16 MC 15 MM 16 CE 16

Fortress Hill Reserve Chenin Blanc 2005
FORT SIMON PRICE: R35
Oak dominates the nose but it also has some lime fruit. Palate is medium-bodied and well balanced but still relatively closed at this stage. Drink in 1 to 5 years.
MF 14.5 DH 16 MC 15.5 MM 16 CE 17

Mulderbosch Chenin Blanc Steen op Hout 2006
CELLAR PRICE: R48
Lime and some ferment character on the nose. Palate is delicate with citrus fruit, some spice and fresh acid. Well judged oak. Drink now or over 5 years.
MF 17 DH 16 MC 17 MM 16 CE 16

Kleine Zalze Barrel Fermented Chenin Blanc 2005
CELLAR PRICE: R49
Aromas of oak, honey and some developed notes. Sweet, rich and ripe on the palate. Tropical fruit matched by fresh acid. Hint of botrytis. Drink now or over 2 years.
MF 15.5 DH 17 MC 15.5 MM 17 CE 18

Simonsig Chenin Avec Chêne Chenin Blanc 2005
CELLAR PRICE: R68
Honey and very ripe fruit on nose and palate. Sweet, rich and ripe. Also some botrytis character. Well integrated wood and good acidity. Drink now or over next 3 years.
MF 14 DH 17 MC 16 MM 17 CE 15

Beaumont Hope Marguerite 2005
CELLAR PRICE: R70
Complex nose showing tropical fruit, floral notes and some developed character. Palate shows good balance with juicy fruit and bright acid. Oxidative yet concentrated and long. Drink now or over the next 5 years.
MF 16 DH 16 MC 16 MM 16.5 CE 15.5

Kanu Wooded Chenin Blanc 2004
CELLAR PRICE: R70
Shy, some developed, waxy whiffs. Palate is medium-bodied with citrus fruit and lots of fresh acid. Long dry finish. Still youthful. Drink now or over the next 5 years.
MF 16 DH 15.5 MC 15 MM 16.5 CE 17

Kanu Wooded Chenin Blanc 2005
CELLAR PRICE: R70
Toasty oak on the nose and palate. Sweet, rich and ripe in the mouth. Some botrytis character. Full-bodied, with stone and tropical fruit matched by fresh acid. Keep for 2 to 5 years.
MF 16 DH 18 MC 15 MM 15.5 CE 14.5

Rudera Robusto Chenin Blanc 2005
RUDERA PRICE: R95
Tropical fruit, vanilla and some lees character on the nose. Rich and ripe with tangy acid. Oily texture. Long finish. Drink now or over the next 5 years.
MF 16 DH 16 MC 16 MM 17 CE 15.5

V Generations 2005
CEDERBERG PRICE: R125
Grassy nose. Medium-bodied, fine and elegant. Lime fruit and crisp acid. Long dry finish. Drink now or over next five years.
MF 15 DH 15 MC 15 MM 15.5 CE 17

Arabella 2006* o R24.99
Opstal 2006 o R30
Ken Forrester 2005* R45
Ken Forrester 2004 R50
Zondernaam 2006* (Tokara) R50
Katbakkies 2004 R52.50
Tierhoek 2004 o R62
Rijk's Barrel Fermented 2005 R90
De Morgenzon 2005 R98
De Morgenzon 2006 R98

Eagle's Cliff 2006* o R15
Slanghoek Private Selection 2006 o R16.70
Pulpit Rock 2006 o R20
Simonsvlei Premier 2006 R21.99
Alexanderfontein 2005 o (Ormonde) R22
Cloverfield 2006 o R23
White River 2006 o R23.50
Five's Reserve 2006* o (Van Loveren) R26
Ayama 2005 o R30
Basson 2006* o R30
Knorhoek 2004 o R30
Matuba Premium Select 2005* (Cape Coastal) R30
DC Arum Fields 2006 (Darling cellars) R30
Indalo 2006 (Swartland) R30
Tukulu 2006 (Papkuilsfontein) R31
Thokozani 2006* R39
Fleur du Cap 2006 (Bergkelder) R39.10
Weening & Barge Cuvée Blondie 2006 o R39.90
Kumkani 2006 (Company of Wine People) R40
Eikendal 2006* R43
Fort Simon 2005 R43
Ken Forrester 2006* R45
Jordan Barrel Fermented 2005 R48
Kleine Zalze Barrel Fermented 2006 R49
Môreson Barrel Fermented 2006 R50
Sterhuis 2006 R55
Welbedacht Barrel Fermented Bush Vine 2005* R55
Spier Private Collection 2005* R56
Anura 2005 R58
Groot Parys Die Tweede Droom 2006 R59
Villiera Cellar Door 2005 R60
De Trafford 2006 R100

Perdeberg 2006* o R16
Marthinus 2006 R18
Villiersdorp 2006* o R18.50
Lookout Ridge 2006 o R18.50
Pinehurst 2006 o (Môreson) R25
Seven Oaks 2006 o R26.22
Groote Post 2006 o R29
Cocoa Hill 2006* (Dornier) R30
Koelenbosch Wooded 2005 (Koelenhof) R30
Môreson 2006 o R33
Slowine Chenin Blanc Sauvignon Blanc 2006* o R35
Beaumont 2006 R35
Onderkloof 2005 R36
Hidden Agenda 2006*(Hidden Valley) R37
Brahms 2004 R40
SylvanVale Old Vine 2006 R44
Cederberg 2006 o R48
Meerendal 2006 R50
Raats Original 2006* o R55
Laroche L'Avenir 2006* o R60
Post House 2006 R60
Raats 2005 R90
Rudera 2005 R95
Rudera Robusto 2006 R95

Bovlei 2006 o R16.50
Welmoed 2006 o R17.20
Flamingo Bay 2006 o (Darling Cellars) R18.50
Windmeul 2006 o R19.50
Alexanderfontein 2006 o (Ormonde) R22
Stellenbosch Hills 2006 o R22
Hazendal Bushvine 2005 o R23
Bergsig 2006 o R23.50
Simonsig 2006 o R25
Wildekrans 2006* R25
Three Peaks 2005 (Mount Vernon) R27.93
Napier Greenstone 2006 o R28
Ondine 2005 o (Ormonde) R28
Kleine Zalze Bush Vines 2006 o R29
Riebeek Reserve 2006 R29.95
Ayama 2006 o R30
Koelenbosch Wooded 2006 (Koelenhof) R30
Perdeberg Reserve 2006 R30
Villiera 2006 R33
Kanu 2006 o R35
Teddy Hall 2006* o (Rudera) R35
Kleine Parys 2006 o R38
Woolworths Ken Forrester Barrel Reserve 2006 R38
Mountain Oaks 2005 o R40
Seidelberg 2006* o R43
Brahms 2005 R45
Virgin Earth 2005* o (Havana Hills) R47.50
Katbakkies 2005 R52.50
Villiera Cellar Door 2004 R60
Sagila Chenin Blanc 2006 o R65
Jean Daneel Signature 2005 R80
Raats 2006 R100
Aubergine Cuvée 2006 o (Rudera) R125

BC 2006 o (Brandvlei) R12.50
Lutzville Cape Diamond 2006 o R16
Goudini 2006 o R19
Cloof Dusty Road 2006* o R25
Napier Greenstone 2005 o R25
Ken Forrester Petit Chenin 2006* o R27
Skilpadvlei 2006* o R28
Conradie 2006 o R30
Knorhoek 2006 o R30
Groot Parys Die Tweede Droom 2006 o R33
Spice Route 2006* R50

also tasted
Dekker's Valley 2006* o (Mellasat) R23

PRICES: wines in each quality grouping listed in order of ascending price - all ex-cellar unless otherwise stipulated
* Bottled under screwcap
o Unwooded

Wine tasters: Wine writer Michael Fridjhon (chairman) (MF), honorary member of the Institute of Cape Wine Masters Dave Hughes (DH), Cape Wine Academy principal Marilyn Cooper (MC), Meinert winemaker Martin Meinert (MM), with WINE magazine deputy editor Christian Eedes (CE).

For the interview with the 2007 Challenge winner, click here.