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Fairview tasting room review

Published: 17 Nov 08
 

Fairview Tasting Room Review

Turning off the N1 and driving towards Klapmuts, we reach an intersection where an outsized Fairview sign indicates that we should turn left. There is no further prompting on the R101 towards Paarl, but eventually we arrive at Fairview. From the tasting venue to the Goatshed restaurant, Charles Back’s place is packed. There are children running riot around fountains and low concrete walls. It’s wine Disneyland on a Saturday morning and I’m not in the mood for Mickey Mouse.

Fairview
Fairview
 

The tasting venue has a reception desk where you pay for a variety of tasting options before moving to the pouring counter. R20 buys six wines and a cheese tasting, R12 the cheese only, and R50 secures a tutored masterclass session where even the premium wines from the Spice Route and Fairview ranges can be tasted. At these prices, Fairview must be a cashflow machine on weekends.

While masterclass patrons purchase the privilege of seated comfort, there is no seating to speak of in the main tasting venue. Our tasting fee also doesn’t include the ISO glass – not branded, by the way. Surprising, considering every single knickknack on display is branded and for sale. Kids’ rugby jerseys and gold mint coins. Why? Spend over R250 on wine purchases and you receive a gold mint token coin that can be redeemed for cheese at the adjacent cheese store.

There is nothing remotely pleasant about this retail environment besides Winston, our host. He leads an excellent tasting and we receive undivided attention. Th steep prices are obviously covering staff overheads. There are almost as many employees – on the floor, behind counters, standing in attendance at bathrooms – as there are patrons.

Get past the retail vibe and there are some truly exceptional wines to be tasted. The red wine-centric, innovative and very New World Fairview, Agostinelli, Spice Route and Goats do Roam ranges predominate. On the day, more than a couple are oxidised. Winston agrees and is more than willing to open redeeming second bottles.

Fairview is wheelchair friendly and it’s obviously kid friendly, judging from the frantic hordes that occupy the lawns. The farm’s famed goats still perch on their tower to make this place that rarest of things: petting zoo meets cheese and wine retail outlet. This was my first visit and I won’t be back too soon. There’s more romance in a bottle of Back’s wine than at his HQ.

OPEN: Mon-Fri 08h30 -17h00,
Sat 08h30-16h00, Sun 09h30-16h00
SERVICE: 6/10 – pleasant and
professional, if a little insincere.
AMBIENCE: 4/10 – retail anxiety
in rural setting.
VALUE: 4/10 – steep tasting fees
charged.
QUALITY: 7/10 – big, bold and
clean. Quality wines at a one-stop
shop.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
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