Fabulous
Saffron, rose, chilli, olive, lemon, cinnamon and tumeric play with each other in an intoxicating medley of colours, augmented by the warm earth kelims and old copper trays. Rose petals are artfully strewn about and orange blossom water features more than once on both menu and in the trim. And prime spots on the verandah offer surprisingly good views of the city and the Botanic gardens below.
With any luck, you’ll see the peacocks resting in the trees. Plus you’re welcomed in traditional Moroccan style – a waiter washes your hands in rose water at the table.
The simple chalked-up menu has progressed from traditional Moroccan fare like tagines (that’s a stew to McDonald), hummus and shish kebabs when it opened some years back, to include some exotic and unusual party dishes.
We opted for the Morrocan mezze that takes in most starters and dips, with the addition of a soup served in Turkish tea glasses, as the communal starter and all tucked in. None of us knew quite what to make of the soup, a tart chickpea and coconut number, but the rest made up for it. Marinated ostrich skewers, spicy shish kebabs, tender chicken skewers and all the dipping sauces, plus flat breads to mop up a beetroot relish, a smoky baba ganoush and a scented pear and raisin relish. The side order of calamari with chorizo and harissa also cracked the nod. There was nothing left on this platter.
Other starters on the menu include deep-fried camembert with sesame and hibiscus syrup, Maroc carpaccio drizzled with coriander pesto and a Syrian fattoush salad – basically a tabouleh with fava beans and coriander instead of parsley.
For mains, the turla turla tagine was the surprise hit. It’s a selection of Mediterranean vegetables, slow roasted with garlic and cinnamon and topped with a coconut cream sauce. It was only ordered because mother-in law is averse to chilli, but was a taste sensation. Two other tagines more than satisfied. There were ground meatballs in a spicy cumin and tomato sauce, served with a poached egg, and then a lamb shank rubbed in 15 exotic spices with figs, almonds and chickpeas. Flavouring was distinct and delicious. The oxtail with Moroccan spices, red wine and dates sounded good, as did the chicken in saffron and tomato, with preserved lemon and olives.
And then it was the belly dancer’s turn to entertain in a whirl of flesh, beads, baubles and black cape. “I’m not sure whether she’s wobbling her jingly bits or jingling her wobbly bits,” someone remarked , but it was certainly a flashy finish to a fine meal.
With no space left, unfortunately we skipped dessert, which is a first. Options include halva ice-cream with chocolate chilli sauce, lavender infused crème brulee or a selection of Moroccan pastries. And if so inclined, you can order a hookah pipe. The gentle waft of apple tobacco added another element to the sensory appeal of Fabulous.
The winelist is a very simple selection – a modest eight whites and 10 reds – but it’s well thought out, offering something for everyone, and complementing the food. And a big plus, the mark-ups are reasonable. Do try a traditional Mediterranean sweet mint tea served from a beaten copper kettle at the end of the meal. It beats the wrapped peppermints squashed in the billfold.
Average price of a three-course meal, without wine: R145
By Frank Chemaly
Address: 37 St Thomas Road, Berea,
Durban
Tel: 031 201 7292
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