Exploring the sleepy giant called Paarl
The forgotten realm
In September, sometimes sleepy Paarl comes to life with the Boland town hosting the Nederburg Auction and the Cultivaria festival. Jeanri-Tine van Zyl takes a walk down Main Road and stays in a Duke's retreat.
You'll find that opinions on the Afrikaans Language Monument in Paarl vary greatly - there are those with great respect for the symbolism of this monument dedicated to the growth and development of Afrikaans, whilst some are rather apathetic, even opposed to the monument that in a post-1994 era has come to represent, and therefore glorify, a past that was not inclusive. And although this monument, with its Langenhoven "curve", is a rather imposing structure commemorating a small portion of South Africa's diverse culture, the town at its feet is surprisingly cosmopolitan with plenty of wineries and restaurants that lend themselves to discovering.
Indeed, Paarl may very well be described as the sleeping beauty of the winelands. Although it has always been a key place of interest for the wine hunter (it being home to KWV headquarters and internationally celebrated wine farm Nederburg), from an exclusively tourist view, the town, albeit the largest in the Cape winelands (with its 100 000-plus inhabitants), has traditionally not got a lot of attention. Being close to student town Stellenbosch and gourmet capital Franschhoek hasn't helped.
"The world has forgotten about Paarl for a while," says Hybré van Niekerk at the tourist office, "but it seems like the media is taking note of us again".
When I visit, television lifestyle programme Pasella is concluding a shoot in town, and it being one of those gorgeous mid-winter spring days, the main street is abuzz with groups who subscribe to the coffee culture. South Africa's longest main street (11 kilometres in total) is a strip of talking and guffawing as people are making the most of the fine weather by socialising outside where the balmy sun is offset by the Du Toitskloof Mountain Range whose peaks, notably Ceres' Matroosberg, are still covered in snow from a recent cold front.
Main Road is where most activities in Paarl take place - the road runs past numerous eateries before it curves down to the town centre (although "don't bother with that stretch" says Van Niekerk) - unless you are interested in CNA, Morkels and other mainstream shops. The outskirts of Paarl are undeniably beautiful, and this provides the town's overarching appeal.
Approaching the Berg River Valley from inland the most probable route is through the Du Toitskloof tunnel on the N1 - although I can recommend taking the old pass as a worthy alternative as the road carves past fynbos, waterfalls and mountain streams and is as spectacular as the narrow bends are nerve-wracking - on exiting the tunnel the granite rock-face of Paarl Mountain lies ahead of you, and for those living in its shadow the colossal "pearl" is difficult to ignore, not only due to its size, but also due to it acting as a natural "furnace" - the sun baked rock radiates heat in summer and can push temperatures up significantly, turning the fertile valley into a sweltering one. It is this outcrop that Abraham Gabbema laid eyes on in 1657. Glistening in the sun after some rain, it resembled a pearl - from which the name Paarl was later derived.
When to visit:
The town hits a bit of a slump during the June/July school holidays, as some family operations close during this time only to reopen when schools do. This only applies to a handful of eateries though. In September the town comes to life with two big events, the annual Nederburg Auction (11 to 12 September), where South Africa's best local wines are offered on auction to wine buyers at the farm and Cultivaria (23 to 27 September), a food, wine and cultural festival, during which an open-air table set in Main Road and seating 1000 guests is one of the key events. Also during this time (25 to 26 September) is the Persia to Paarl festival, celebrating Shiraz.
Where to stay:
My travelling companion and I booked into Cascade Manor, a out-of-town luxury guesthouse set amongst olive groves and vineyards.
Now owned by Maika and Volker Goetze, the Mediterranean homestead stands on grounds previously owned by the Duke of Bedford , who most aptly describe this place and area in A Silver-plated Spoon (Cassell, 1959) referring to it as "an almost idyllic part of the world in which to live".
With rooms opening either onto well-kept lawns or balconies with views of the cascading waterfall just an easy stroll away, it is easy to understand why the Duke was overcome by nostalgia on his return to England. Situated close to Nederburg wine farm, Cascade Manor must be first on your list when investigating accommodation options. Tel 021 868 0227, www.cascadecountrymanor.co.za.
If you want a super-de luxe experience with prices to match, book into the Grande Roche, a Relais & Chateaux hotel. Onpremises Bosman's Restaurant also comes highly acclaimed, with Bistro Allegro offering informal dining. Tel 021 863 5100.
NOTABLE WINERIES AND MUST-VISIT SPOTS:
Nederburg, just outside Paarl on Sonstraal road, is one of South Africa's most awarded wineries offering a range of well-crafted wines - with Razvan Macici and team especially excelling on the Noble Late Harvest front. Tel 021 862 3104.
In Paarl's Main Road you will find Laborie. Purchased by the KWV in 1972, this farm offers tastings and light meals at its restaurant between 10:00 and 17:00. Tel 021 807 3390.
Also in Main Road is the KWV headquarters. Visit the KWV Wine Emporium or book one of their selections of tours. Tel 021 807 3911.
Fairview with its goats and towers is one of the main attractions in the winelands, and indeed your journey will be incomplete without a visit to this farm. Known and loved for its cheese and The Goatshed restaurant, there is a lot to be said in favour of Fairview's wines. Tel 021 863 2450.
Next door to Fairview is Seidelberg, notable for its Venetian-style glass blowing studio, where you can view the exquisite glassware on sale being crafted. On a clear day, tables here are packed with patrons enjoying meals from De Leuwenjagt Restaurant and views of Table Mountain. Tel 021 863 5200.
Rhebokskloof for Shiraz. Tel 021 869 8386. The Afrikaans Language Monument - no matter what your stance the view is impressive and makes for a perfect picnic spot, especially on full moon evenings.
Where to eat:
Have brunch at Café Kikka. With its funky interior and pink banners, this bistro, deli and wild-flower florist is a favourite amongst those who love catch-up chats. If you are not in the mood for the school crowd, head there before the school bell rings at the end of the day, as this is a favourite schools-out spot for uniformed teenagers who have taken a liking to Kikka's milkshakes. Made from full-cream vanilla ice-cream, these are devilishly delicious. Pair it with the white chocolate nut cake with its fluffy sponge and thick layers of chocolate for an über-decadent combination - or opt to have it with a good old cappuccino if you don't have a massively sweet tooth. There are also colourful cupcakes on offer, with a wide variety of sandwiches and breakfast served all day. Kikka: 217 Main Road, 021 872 0685
Further up the road is Café Juno. Hard to miss due to its colourful exterior, this breakfast and lunch bistro is an outlet for Juno wines - which are adorned by co-founder Tertia du Toit's bright and bold labels of "Cape Maidens". But while the artistic wines, produced under guidance of Charles Back from Fairview, form the raison d'être for this bistro, it is also known for making a mean cappuccino - with a heart at its centre. It is also the place to grab a quick lunch-time snack or a wholesome meal. For something different and truly farm-like, try The Wors Spear, a wors and krummelpap-combo. Café Juno: 191 Main Road, 021 872 0697
If you are in the mood to snack on light bites, visit newly opened 10 Chapters. A wine bar offering a selection of wines from South Africa's ten winemaking regions, this tasteful wine lounge invites patrons to undertake a journey of exploration that started when winemaker Stefan Gerber asked: "What if we made a bottle of wine that was representative of South Africa?" This venue is perfect for sundowners as it offers a selection of tasty tapas. Also taste the well-priced 10 Chapters wines for a chapter-by-chapter journey through SA's wine regions. 10 Chapters: 113 Main Road, 021 863 0321
At Die Eethuis, diners can enjoy meals that are as hearty as the chef that prepares them. Hugo Snyman makes a creamy prawn risotto and will also be introducing Karoo "Koesien" (sic) to his menu, comprised of authentic, hearty farm fare. Die Eethuis: 2 Pastorie Lane, 021 871 1432
Marc's Restaurant was closed when I visited but is recommended for its mix of Mediterranean flavours and flair. Marc's, 129-131 Main Road, Tel 021 863 3990.
WINE magazine choice:
For understated ambience and contemporary dining, Noop restaurant, headed by Chef Abe Conradie, previously from acclaimed Pontac Manor, comes highly recommended by locals. Here you are spoilt for choice as the menu offers everything from pizzas, sushi and fine-dining meals. The staff is well-informed and readily inspire you to try lesser-known Paarl wines. Try Le Fût Shiraz 2006 from a boutique winery in town, and pair this with marrow-soft fillet pancetta wedged with wild mushroom paté. The restaurant is also open for lunch and has a day menu which offers season-fresh canapés. Noop: 217 Main Road, 021 872 0685
Another dinner option is Terra Mare, where chef Thabo Nqadini prepares a range of classy cuisine. Driving into town this venue is situated on your left-handside and incorporates views of Paarl Mountain with the outside area being perfect to sip on bubbles and shucked oysters for a sunset-and-moonrise experience. Terra Mare: 90a Main Road, 021 863 0520
