Explore unexpexted gems in the Overberg
THE ROUTE
A land that speaks loudly about its surrounds, and softly through the pioneering people behind the wines produced, Van der Stel Pass will pique an interest in the curious wine traveller. A recent visit to Bot River left a lasting impression and an urge to return to this obscure turn-off to a dirt road with wineries open for tasting. There’s a certain resonance with the absolute Africa that one finds further north on our continent, in that the underlying ‘brown’ of the region and dusty gravel roads is deeply evocative of an African essence not always found in the Cape.
Bot River was named by the Hottentot settlers in the 1600s. Butter was made on the banks of the river and merchants who travelled there named it ‘Botter’ River. And now the river represents wine…
It’s important to prepare yourself for a trip that is not about filling up your boot, but rather a chance to see and experience something more unusual and unexpected. It may take some booking ahead, but it also makes for a savoured mini-weekend get-away-from-it-all.
Travel along the N2 over Sir Lowry’s and Houw Hoek Pass, and take Exit 92 to Bot River. Turn left and pass Beaumont Winery. Just over the railway line, on the right there is a small sign marked Van der Stel Pass onto a dirt road that will eventually take you to Villiersdorp.
FIRST STOP: LUDDITE
Luddite wine farm is likely the most wellknown stop along the route (Wine’s March issue gave an in-depth review, or go to www.winemag.co.za and click on ‘travel’). Its popularity is understandable with Niels Verburg’s unconventional personality and the characteristic stamp he has imparted on the wine as well as the Bot River area.
We arrive at the farm around midmorning, having made the necessary appointment. The floor of the tasting room (pictured above) is a veneer of oak barrel faces, with resin in-between, hand-painted in black. Liesl, Niels’ right-hand, welcomes us and, while she confesses “you must talk through the wine with Niels for the whole experience”, she conveys the requisite essence of The Luddite (R250), a Shiraz you might want to keep, but won’t be able to resist drinking now. With 60% of the wine going to the local market, it’s to be found at certain restaurants and speciality wine stores.
The farm is set among some 200 olive trees; the Verburgs are all about self- sufficiency, not necessarily organic but going as green as possible. “Niels really is a Luddite at heart!” Tel 028 284 9308; www.luddite.co.za
SECOND STOP: OU MEUL FARM
Along the dirt road, with working farm vignettes on either side, a homely yellow building marks the entrance to Ou Meul, on the right-hand side. It’s a relatively small 33ha farm, of which only 2.6ha are under vine. As we arrive and make our way through the gate to the small tasting site, we phone Marius, father of the farm owner Pieter Meiring, who arrives within minutes to talk us through the wine. It is like being in someone’s backyard surrounded by vineyards. Should you go to the farm, they will also let you in on a little secret about the fireplace outside…
Marius is clearly proud of the maiden vintage of Boutros wine, made in consultation with Niels Verburg. (He attributes much of the farm’s success to the aid of the association of producers from the area.) The 2006 blend comprises 55% Shiraz and 45% Cabernet (R60). With 14 months in oak, a blend of French and American, and bottle-matured for two years, he makes around 11 000 bottles – small, select, and symbolic with the farm’s overarching oak-tree emblem. It’s a wine you’ll enjoy with lamb or a slow-cooked casserole on a chilly evening; and it can also be found on the wine list across the road at KolKol. Tel 028 284 9871
THIRD STOP: KOLKOL MOUNTAIN LODGE
Immediately opposite Ou Meul, the left-hand turn from the main dirt road is a winding pass through pine trees to a stop that cannot be missed, and one to which you’ll find reason to return. Characterful KolKol Mountain Lodge is modelled after a ‘Canadian cabin’ design and Rudi Oosthuyse designed and built the first cabin in 2007. In the middle of what feels like nowhere, the design of wood and stone is something of an icon on the horizon. The view is wide-reaching and, with a wood-fired hot tub, it certainly has a feeling of something out of the ordinary. The Kitchen@KolKol has been open but a few months, and immediately welcomes with its huge fireplace for winter and, in summer, a deck with a permanent dance floor on the lawn. The menu is created by chef Edmund Viljoen, who alters certain dishes each month according to seasonal sourcing. One dish enjoying a permanent place is the highlight of the menu, the tempura prawn rolls (R60), soft and sweetly savoury, placed on top of a sushistyle roll. The wine list comprises wines from the surrounding area and consists of reasonably priced options, like the Wildekrans Chenin Blanc (R70). Tel 028 284 9406 or 082 654 5090; www.kolkol.co.za
FOURTH STOP: GOEDVERTROUW
The setting of Goedvertrouw is like a sketch out of a Beatrix Potter story; the building with thatched roof and oak doorway is set amid roses growing rampant and little cobbled pathways. The house was originally built in 1820, making it one of the oldest in the area. The old bell in front was used to signal the arrival of the train to transport vegetables to Cape Town and the wine cellar still has the original skietgatte used during World War II.
Winemaker Elreda Pillmann took over from her late husband Arthur and has been making wine on her own for nearly eight years, doing everything by hand, even the bottling.
She does not really drink wine, and makes the current wines through smell, and by carrying through all of the insights and desires that Arthur left behind to those who worked closely with him.
Born to a conservative family, as Elreda says, too strict for her to become something of a hippy, she instead became a travelling nurse – and met Arthur. A tale as old as time, military boy meets girl and they fall in love. In this case, even more romantically, girl has vineyard dreams. The two decided to settle in Bot River; Arthur was convinced of the potential of the area in the 1980s, although Elreda did inform him that buying it would not convince her to marry him! But so she did and now there is a range of handcrafted wines to be tasted, though as a boutique winery the final bottling is small.
Visitors to Goedvertrouw need to indicate which wines they would specifically like to taste. Among the Cabernet Sauvignon (R80) and Sauvignon Blanc (R50) that are also on offer, I opt for the Chardonnay (R60). It is excellent, with elegant, subtle oak integration. The Pinot Noir (R100), rustic, earthy: just what I would want to drink in the company of Beatrix Potter and Peter Rabbit!
Elreda prepares home-cooked meals, upon appointment, and runs a quaint B&B (R350 pppn). Tel 028 284 9769
FIFTH STOP: EERSTE HOOP
Witklip is the farm name and Eerste Hoop remembers the historic hunting lodge of Governor Willem Adriaan van der Stel, who used to visit the valley to hunt. It’s a contrast to the wineries visited so far, as it appears after some kilometres onwards in a very large modern building painted red. The first vintage was in 2009 and the production of some 90 000 bottles is mainly for export to Belgium where the owner is based. But do stop here (by appointment) to experience the breadth of wines produced, also found at certain restaurants and speciality wine stores.
Leon Engelke, farm manager, vintner, winemaker and Michelangelo Garagiste of the Year 2007 will talk you through the style of wines, including the Witklip range (Chardonnay and Shiraz at R50 and the best value Blushing Bride Rosé R35, to “sit on the stoep” and drink), and the Eerste Hoop range, including the Viognier (R75), a Shiraz and the Cabernet Sauvignon (both R135). A very intriguing wooded Chardonnay (R75) imparts some green apple, tropical notes and a gravel flintiness that rings true of this area.
Along with a flinty characteristic, there is also a herbaceous quality that reminds me of the Boutros wine. Surrounded by eucalyptus trees, something distinctive follows through, be it in the soil or the air around here, denoting some signature characteristics of yet-to-be-fullydiscovered Van der Stel Valley wines… Tel 028 841 4190 or 082 742 4793; www.eerstehoop.co.za
PLACES TO STAY
KolKol Mountain Lodge
Family sized cabin and a ‘honeymoon’ cabin from R780 to R980 pppn and the tents from R580 to R780 pn
Tel 028 284 9406
Malkop on Malplaas
Funky and pet-friendly; self-catering thatched house from R138 to R300 pppn
Tel 028 284 9619
Rooi-Heuwel
Three self-catering cottages from R360 to R500 pppn
Tel 028 284 9766
Porcupine Hills Guesthouse
Olive-oil tasting by appointment, private pools and hiking trails R500 pppn self-catering, R570 B&B, full-service R780
Tel 028 284 9066
