Earlier this year, leading wine writer Michael Fridjhon contemplated the aging potential of Sauvignon Blanc. In a rather apt comparison he referred to Sauvignon's "Lolita brigade" calling them "the pumped-up precocious monsters intended to seduce the moment they are turned loose." Arguing in favour of aged Sauvignon Blancs, Fridjhon stated that even these "Lolitas" are more enjoyable when left to age for a year or two.
This is an argument in direct contradiction with what the consumer market has been led to believe: that Sauvignon Blanc is best enjoyed in the year of bottling.

Following this, an agenda-setting exercise to investigate the aging debate was held, late January, at Hidden Valley Wines. Twenty participants attended the afternoon, with initial consensus at the start of the event being that Sauvignon Blanc, if well-made, is definitely a varietal that will reward age in bottle.

Although the wines that performed best on the day were wines from the 2009 vintage (underpinning 2009 as one of the best vintages in decades), recent ratings in the April issue of WINE magazine once again make an argument for mature Sauvignon Blancs. These ratings also reiterate what I experienced at the inaugural Constantia Fresh festival - that Sauvignon Blanc, if laid down for a year or two (or even much longer), develop into a wine that is softer, rounder with a lot less acidic ‘sting' that consumers often complain about.

When the wine is particularly well-crafted, an aged Sauvignon Blanc will take on a viscous texture and secondary flavours that range from honey, truffle and marmalade will come to the fore - all while the acidity, that so often comes up overpowering in younger Sauvignons, lends perfect balance.

Restaurant offerings on aged Sauvignons are always limited. Yet, when given the option I always order an older Sauvignon, as, for reasons stated, it makes for a more intelligent, and therefore pleasurable, drinking experience.

This year, of the 11 Sauvignon Blancs rated in the annual panel tasting of white wines of the 2005 vintage, six either performed better or achieved the same rating as five years before.

One of these, the Oak Valley Mountain Reserve 2005, achieved a 4-Star rating (previously rated 3½-Stars) - and of all the Sauvignons I tasted on the lawn at Boschendal, it was also the Oak Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2005 that impressed most.

In recent conversation with Danie de Wet from De Wetshof, he could not help but praise a Neil Ellis Sauvignon Blanc 2006 that he drank during the Christmas period. De Wet is also of the opinion that we drink our Sauvignons too young, but his opinion is that this will change - but not in his lifetime. The unfortunate fact is that Sauvignon Blanc has been made the cash cow in an era where retailers dictate fashion. Sauvignon Blanc has to keep the trunks full - which means turnovers should be high. No time to lay a bottle down and release it a year or two down the line, as this would not make business sense. The reality is that this practice results in consumers believing that Sauvignon Blancs are brash and should best be enjoyed with a Rennie (to draw on the old anecdote).

And it is not only Sauvignons made in the past decade that should be considered, this week at the launch of Steenberg's flagships, cellarmaster John Loubser dusted the cobwebs off a Sauvignon Blanc 1994. Far from undrinkable, the wine showed appealing marmalade and spice on the nose; while on the palate it was still remarkably fresh, making a pretty solid case for the maturation potential of Sauvignon Blanc - seems like Lolita is far better all grown up.