What to do and visit in Durbanville.

What to do and where to go if you have a day - or even just a few hours - in the winelands. By Fiona McDonald.

Durbanville is around 20 minutes drive out of Cape Town when heading to the area via the N7. It's a wine route which has adopted Sauvignon Blanc as its standard bearer - and with good reason. No fewer than three of the top 10 Sauvignons Blanc in this month's WINE magazine TOPS at SPAR Sauvignon Blanc Top 10 tasting are from Durbanville.

First stop is the newest cellar, De Grendel, just north of Tableview and Plattekloof suburbs on the side of the Tygerberg, and just a few kilometres from the cool Atlantic. The Graaff family farm, which is already renowned for top merino sheep and dairy herds, now also has large blocks of vineyards which are clearly visible from the city. Winemaker Charles Hopkins is delighted at the quality of the Sauvignon Blanc in particular. And with good reason - although it takes a bit of effort with multiple passes through the vineyards made to pick the grapes at the right - though different - times. Tasting is free and worth special mention is the Koetshuis Sauvignon Blanc and the Winifred white blend of Semillon, Chardonnay and Viognier.

Riotous birdsong is the first thing I noticed upon arriving at Durbanville Hills, the winery positioned on the flank of the Tygerberg facing northwards. The views stretch for miles, taking in Robben Island, Table Mountain, the Atlantic and west coast as well as wheatfields.

Around a decade ago many of the vineyards that supply grapes to this large winery were once wheatfields but winemaker Martin Moore appreciates both the volume and variety of slopes and microclimates as a result.

It's allowed him to diversify the winery's range. There's an Inner and Outer Valley Sauvignon Blanc, Rhinofields Reserve Sauvignon Blanc and also a Biesjes Craal Sauvignon Blanc -and that's not including the standard Durbanville Hills Sauvignon Blanc!

It's R10 to taste eight wines but if you only want to try one or two, there's no charge.

There's a restaurant - @ The Hills - which is open for lunch and dinner but booking is essential.

Hillcrest is another new winery on the route, having opened its doors in 2002. At the helm is former marine biologist Graeme Read who is passionate about... Sauvignon Blanc, although the winery's Merlot took the trophy at the 2007 Old Mutual Trophy Wine Show.

Tasting is very personal (and free), taking place at a large table adjacent to the restaurant which is very popular with Durbanville locals, many of whom queue well ahead of opening in order to make the most of its breakfast! Something new is a Rosé from juice bled off from the Hillcrest Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.

Assistant winemaker Chris Alheid is bullish: "We want to see Durbanville considered the area for Sauvignon Blanc."

Just over the crest of the hill on the M13 is Nitida. At the moment there's a lot of construction underway but that's because a new eatery and tasting room are being built. Cassia restaurant, a joint venture with popular chef Pete Goffe-Wood, is set to open ahead of the December holidays.

Bernhard Veller is the owner winemaker and has been since 1992. Tasting takes place in the barrel cellar at a beautiful wooden counter and, again, there's no charge. In addition to Sauvignon Blanc, the Semillon should be tasted, along with the red, Calligraphy, a blend of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. There's a distinct minerality on all Nitida wines, along with refreshing acidity.

Something unique for a wine farm is that Nitida hosts a farmer's market on the fourth Saturday of every month, from 07h30 to 12h00 - and they're at pains to point out it's not a craft market, only fresh produce. Log on to their website for details.

A little further down the road is Bloemendal estate, another place which marries the restaurant and tasting concept. Families will be pleased to know there's a jungle gym and play area for the kids, along with a wonderful raised boardwalk through a small vlei or wetland area. Booking for the restaurant is essential over weekends and public holidays because it's a very popular spot. Expect to pay R5 for a tasting of three wines or R10 for six. It used to be free ... until frequent visitors abused the system once too often.

Owner winemaker Jackie Coetzee makes an old-style meaty Shiraz and big and bold Cabernet Sauvignon but again the Suider Terras Sauvignon Blanc is the flagship. Coetzee only releases it a year after harvest believing it needs time in bottle to show its true potential.

A visit to Altydgedacht takes you back in time. You drive into a real old-fashioned werf, with farm machinery parked haphazardly. Hard to believe you're only a few hundred metres from suburbia - but it's a beautiful place with its trees, verdant meadows where cows graze. The tasting room is in an old barn and there's a battle-scarred workbench where the wines are served. Tasting is free.

Brothers Oliver and John Parker farm here although Etienne Louw assists Oliver with winemaking. Old timers in the SA wine game all have a story about their mother, Jean Parker, a real character. Rumour even has it that the George Spies Cabernet Sauvignon which is so famous - and rare - was actually made by her.

Expect to try something different here. They do the usual reds and whites but then also have a spicy Barbera and a Gewürztraminer which does well with spicy foods.
Follow the Durbanville Wine Route signs from Altydgedacht and you'll hook up with the M58 towards Philadelphia. A few kilometres out of suburbia you'll find the Louw family farm, Diemersdal. A long rose-lined avenue leads past the vineyards to the historic Cape Dutch gabled building which houses the tasting room.

One recent visitor wrote the following in their guest book: "Dit voel of ons in 'n groen paradys is - met heerlike wyn!"

Thys Louw has taken over the wine-making reins from dad Tienie who maintains a watchful eye on proceedings, nonetheless. There's a large range of wines for sampling but, once again, Sauvignon Blanc rules the roost with no fewer than three good examples, the standard Diemersdal, the single vineyard and then the super-premium 8 Rows. But Diemersdal also has the ultra-friendly Matys, a screwcapped blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Shiraz and Pinotage.

Meerendal is the last stop on the Durbanville wine route, and the sweetest - it won a trophy at the 2007 Old Mutual Trophy Wine Show for its Chenin Blanc natural sweet 2006. The year before it won the Merlot Trophy. It's also home to some of the most venerable Pinotage plantings in the country.

Liza Goodwin is the winemaker and although tasting the range costs R10, this fee is refunded when six or more bottles are purchased. And here's a tip - if you have a meal in the adjacent bistro with its lovely views of the dam and Durbanville, you get a voucher entitling you to a free tasting...

If you're after more upscale eating, try Wheatfields, the restaurant in the manor house which has a very good reputation.

 

"Must try" wines:

- Altydgedacht - Pinotage is a must because the farm has a solid track record with it, but also the Sauvignon Blanc, Barbera and Gewürztraminer.
- Bloemendal - without a doubt, the Suider Terras Sauvignon Blanc.
- De Grendel - too often Viognier can dominate in a blend, but in the Winifred the 40% each of Chardonnay and Semillon balance it well.
- Diemersdal - try the 8 Rows Sauvignon Blanc, along with the Chardonnay Reserve and, as an everyday quaffer, the Matys (Cab S, Merlot, Shiraz and Pinotage) is
great.
- Durbanville Hills - there's a range of Sauvignon Blanc to try but personal favourites are the Rhinofields Merlot and the Caapmans Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot. Restrained reds rather than being too full fruited.
- Hillcrest - Sauvignon Blanc, of course - but also the Merlot and the new Rosé.
- Meerendal - the estate's Merlot won at the Old Mutual Trophy Wine show in 2006 so is worth a try. They also boast some of the oldest Pinotage vines around so give that a whirl too.
- Nitida - Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc, along with the red blend, Calligraphy (Merlot, Cab F and Cab S).

Other attractions:

Clara Anna Fontein is a private nature reserve on the outskirts of Durbanville which offers a secluded tented safari experience.

Alba's guest farm and livery where you can do some horse riding.

Poplars is a popular restaurant which is highly rated.