Discovering Namibian wines
Honest to GOD
A tour company in Namibia now offers a wine tour as one of its packages. Jeanri-Tine van Zyl goes vine-hunting in the desert.
Namibia doesn't need an introduction. The red dunes of Sossusvlei have been immortalised on postcards and in coffee-table books. The trees of Deadvlei cast familiar shadows, the impressive formations of Spitzkoppe and the history of Herero Wars are welldocumented. Solitaire is praised for its apple tart, Swakopmund for its oysters, and when you visit Windhoek you don't do it without a stop at Joe's Beerhouse.
Even so, you can't possibly know what it means to stand on top of those majestic dunes, appreciate silence or be moved by history until you have seen the sun rise over Sossusvlei, listened to nothing but barking geckos at dusk or touched the Herero and German graves in Okahandja. You wouldn't know how good apple tart tastes until you've driven on the dirt road for hours to the bakery at the small settlement-cum-fuel station which is Solitaire, and you definitely don't know steak until you've been to Joe's.
There is this, and so, so much more. Such is the diversity here that even vines grow in the desert, which is why a trip to Namibia was planned. The idea was put into action by New African Frontiers, an inbound tour company based in Windhoek that, as part of its extensive tour packages, also offers a wine tour. An eight-day package, my tour took me past some of Namibia's most impressive attractions, and also included stops at two wine farms (there are only five, of which the two I visited are the bestknown). Together with my Camel Man of a guide, Jon Leach, I traversed more than 2 000km of terrain. It was an unforgettable journey, and I have no doubt that the imprints of endless sky, bright stars, boundless earth and its humble people will remain with me long after I have finished my bottles of Namibian wine.
Winemaking in Namibia is not unprecedented. In the 1970s, Danie de Wet, owner and cellarmaster at De Wetshof, shared jovial times with Father Morgenschweiss and Brother Steiner, who at the time produced wine and brandy at what was known as ‘Klein Windhoek'. Some Riesling and Pinot Noir vines were planted here, but these were later uprooted to make way for sporting grounds and the cellar closed shortly thereafter. De Wet bought some of the equipment and today the original vats still stand in his cellar at De Wetshof.
My journey to discover present-day vines in the desert starts in the capital, Windhoek. The town is Namibia's navel, situated almost right in the middle of the country. It is therefore suggested that visitors start and plan their travels using Windhoek as a base.
The town is a vibey ‘little' epicentre, with approximately 200 000 people living within its confines. "During South African occupation Windhoek was divided into three areas; central suburbs for the whites, Khomasdal for the coloureds and Katutura for the blacks," reads my itinerary. Since I am looking for traditional fare rather than German Brötchen, I head for Katutura.
It is in this suburb where I have my first taste of local delicacies - two Mopani worms - washed down with my first, of many, Windhoek Lagers. Less adventurous eaters might want to head to Xwama Cultural Village close to Katutura's popular Eveline Street, for a meal of mahangu (a porridge-like flatbread) dipped in cooked spinach accompanied by full chicken drizzled in marula oil. Or go straight to Joe's Beerhouse, a carnivore haven close to the town's centre, where game and beef dishes have been served to happy clients for almost two decades.
Namibia has a population of 2.2 million, a number which indicates the harsh agricultural conditions - few people are up for the challenge. There are vast stretches of inhabitable, arid land with little or no water. Leaving Windhoek, this absolute desolation is an almost immediate occurrence. Driving via the Spreetshoogte Pass over the Naukluft Mountains to the Namib Desert, the scenery changes from dry to parched to scorched. According to meteorological records, Namibia averages 300 days of sunshine per year...
But, even though the land is thirsty, it is lush in attractions, and its scenery never monotone. Before passing one more camelthorn tree or crossing another dry riverbed, the horizon lurks with a promising discovery.
Just when I am convinced that nothing can grow or survive in this unforgiving landscape, I note palm trees rising in the distance. Upon travelling closer, a brown signboard materialises, directing doubting travellers to a wine farm. It is true, one of the greatest wonders of Namibia stands in the Sossusvlei region - and it's not a dune. It is called Neuras, ‘place of abandoned water'.
In 1996 Allan Walkden-Davis (left) bought a patch of land with fi ve perennial fountains and a collection of towering date trees. After years as MD of Shell Namibia, he was planning on retiring, "maybe writing a book or two", but the desert had other plans. Today the five artesian wells are utilised to flood-irrigate one hectare of vines, mostly Shiraz and Merlot, and some Petit Verdot too, and the writer's pen has made way for pruning scissors. It wasn't planned, says Allan, but these things never are. Allan has always had an interest in wine, which manifested early in his life while studying at UCT. While completing his National Service he met Jaco van der Merwe (also known as Koos) who was instrumental in what stands at Neuras today. So cardinal was his input that Allan still references Koos when guiding tour groups on his farm. "It was Koos who brought me the first, original Swartland Shiraz vines," the farmer tells our group, affectionately remembering the start-up years.
These vines compete in age with the "crystal grapes", which stand guarded from birds in a wired greenhouse. "I believe them to have been planted just before the Second World War," enlightens Allan. By comparison, the date trees on the property were planted in the 1890s, their purpose to "indicate to missionaries in the area where the Christians were stationed".
Bible analogies are easy to find here. The man who treads the ground and tends to the fountains is every bit as Godfearing as those before him. The humble farmer fumbles with his hat in his hands. "If you don't believe in God, you can't believe what is happening here." So inspiring is this patch of land that even the local dominee calls on the farm as a theme in his sermons... and, of course, there's the water into wine cliché. Whatever your take might be, walking on the pavestone along the artesian wells does stir something in your soul. ". is is an unbelievable place," my guide whispers. He has been a tour guide for many years and he thought he'd seen it all. To this oasis he just shakes his head in amazement.
Apart from the evident beauty, the wine produced here is a marvel. Abrie Bruwer of Springfield has served as oenological consultant since 2002 and, following his advice, Allan has adjusted his viti and viniculture techniques. Vines are pruned more severely, and Bruwer also introduced his trademark wholeberry maceration. While counterparts up north don't age their wine in vat due to the dry conditions resulting in "barrel burst", there is no shortage of French oak in the cellar at Neuras.
Allan speaks of terroir here, of the sand and clay soil being rich in pH, yes, even of "cooling sea breezes". Although, the feeding springs, which are rich in nutrients, are the likely contributors to the wine's unexpected appeal.
The average temperature is high - too hot for sensitive varietals like Cabernet Sauvignon, for example. Grapes are harvested, in sections, at approximately 25° Balling, which results in an alcohol by volume of 14.5% for the Shiraz, yet the Namib Red (a Merlot and Shiraz blend) is a refreshingly low 12.8% (a result of blocks ripening in stages). Remarkably poised, the Shiraz 2008 is stylistically more cool-climate in character, with appealing aromas of black cherries and sweet pepper, silky tannins and fantastic follow-through. "Allan you have arrived!" exclaimed Bruwer upon tasting this wine, relays Allan, rightfully proud. Production is minute. Total harvest borders on approximately five tons, resulting in about 4 000 bottles. It is a novel product, scarce and special. At R290 for the Shiraz and R160 for the Namib Red, it makes for a great souvenir too.
The Namib Red is the most expensive wine listed at the Desert Homestead, a lodge some 30km southeast of Sesriem, close to Neuras. Situated in a grassy valley sheltered by the Nubib, Tsairs and Naukluft mountains, rustic rooms at this cosy hideaway have views of the Namib Desert in the west, where the famous red dunes lurk. Due to this proximity, Desert Homestead is the perfect sleepover if you want to make it to Sossusvlei by sunrise. (The best time to view the dunes is close to sunrise and sunset when the contrast between shadow and light is most dramatic.)
En route towards Sossusvlei before daybreak the next morning, conversation with my guide reveals an androgynous relationship between inhabitant and tourist. Locals guard the Namib; they are protective of their environment and very aware of the sensitivity of its ecosystem. Therefore, even though the focus in Namibia is very much on tourism, and its people welcome you with smiles, it is with wary eyes that they watch visitors leave footprints on their dunes.
Sossusvlei is the most visited tourist destination in Namibia. It is located in the Namibia Naukluft Park, the fourth-largest conservation area globally. The mighty red dunes of Sossusvlei are estimated to be 80 million years in age, and are the highest in the world, although it is speculated that ‘Dune 7' is shrinking due to the hiking activity on its ridge - a concern which doesn't seem farfetched when one sees the number of people clambering up to its pinnacle like ants.
From Sossusvlei the desert folds away to where crescent dunes are born at the coastline. The neat, Germanised town of Swakopmund borders on these dunes, and palm trees line its promenade. It is here that visitors also get their fill of oysters, harvested from the beds in the bay. Nightlife is thrilling, with pubs and bars bursting into boisterous gatherings after 22:00. Be warned that drinking with the locals is extremely hazardous; best head to the wine loft at Kucki's Pub and Grill or the Grapevine if it is classy drinking you are after. And, of course, no visit to Swakopmund is complete without a turn at the bar at The Tug, simply because bar manager Orlando Joseph, with his easy smile and brilliant sense of humour, epitomises the rich culture of Namibia. You might even hear about vines planted not far from town. Apparently one Michael Leach produces some Cabernet Sauvignon somewhere outside Swakopmund, but production at 60 bottles per harvest makes it purely for self-consumption.
It is rather some kilometres further north, towards Omaruru, where another winery, Kristall Kellerei, is drawing attention. Omaruru is an enclave of artists - the Riebeek Kasteel of Namibia. Restaurants and art galleries line Wilhelm Zeraua street. Herero women, wearing bright traditional dresses, walk elegant and proud down the road.
On the banks of the river, from which the town draws its name, stands Kristall Kellerei. Michael and Katrin Weder acquired the winery from Helmut Kluge in 2008, after he had already established the three hectares of vines for intended brandy production.
At Kristall Kellerei ‘birding' takes on a new meaning. Colombard, Cabernet Sauvignon, Ruby Cabernet and Tinta Barocca grapes provide juicy treats to these ‘pests' perched in camelthorn trees. To the frustration of the owners, birds like grey loerie, European golden oriole and starlings are thrilled to find fat grapes to feed on during the dry months. "We lost half a ton of grapes to birds," says Michael - and production is already small with only 5 000l making it into bottle. Ironically, their red blend, made from Cabernet Sauvignon, Tinta Barocca and Merlot, is named Paradise Flycatcher, after a breeding pair roosted in a tree on the property. "It is such a beautiful bird," smiles Michael, "and they feed on insects."
Birds are not the only challenge. To combat budding vines from incurring frost damage ‘konka-style' drums are stoked, lit and the smoke channelled over vines towards the riverbed. Dry conditions pose another problem: "It is just not viable to buy barrels when half of them crack due to it being so dry here," says Katrin. Therefore they opt for staveageing, making the Paradise Flycatcher 2009 a juicy, quaffable wine, and not overly complex.
The first vines were already planted here in 1990, but closer inspection of these original vines elicits a warning from Katrin: "We saw a two-metre long pofadder here the other day," whereupon I opt to taste the wine made from these vines in the safe confines of the tasting room instead. Kristall Kellerei's Colombard can compete with the best on off er in South Africa, with the 2010 showing generous fruit aromas and a zesty, lingering palate. Match it with Katrin's platter of cured meats and cheese, served underneath thorn trees where the sound of the goaway- bird pierces the sky. Also, try some of their ‘grappa' (called Nappa here) if you are brave...
That night, after a glass too many, I clamber onto a granite boulder from where I can see Scorpio, the largest constellation in the sky, clearly defined in a heaven unpolluted by light. I am full of wine, sitting underneath one of the most impressive stargazing skies, in one of the most starkly beautiful places on earth. It is true what they say. The desert does burn away at your soul.
Luckily, they bottle some of this magic.
WHERE TO STAY, EAT, PLAY...
• Olive Grove Guesthouse in Windhoek (pictured left) is an upmarket establishment situated close to the city centre in a quiet, peaceful area. A big terrace and plunge pool add to this stylish hideout's appeal. Go to www.olivegrove-namibia.com.
• Ride horses and enjoy sundowners at Desert Homestead, situated 32km southeast of Sesriem. If you want to catch the dunes at daybreak this is a super spot to spend the night. Visit www.deserthomestead-namibia.com.
• Cornerstone Guesthouse in Swakopmund is a delightful, cottagestyle establishment. Visit www.cornerstoneguesthouse.com.
• Sleep in a tented chalet amidst huge boulders and dassie cries at Erongo Wilderness Lodge, just outside Omaruru (pictured middle left). Visit www.erongowilderness.com.
• Don't miss out on a catamaran cruise between Walvis Bay and Swakopmund. It is a fun and informative trip and, who knows, you might even get a lap-dance from a sea lion called Spotty. Visit www.namibiancharters.com.
• If you want a wildlife experience head to Erindi Private Game Reserve, set on 71 000 ha of pristine wilderness where more than 15 000 head of game roam. You can view these from the lounge deck overlooking the waterhole or go on a game drive with Ulrich Opperman. Go to www.erindi.com for more info.
• Eat at Xwama Cultural Village in Windhoek, www.xwamacultural.com, or Joe's Beerhouse, www.joesbeerhouse.com.
• For fresh fish and delicious oysters head to Kucki's Pub and Grill in Swakopmund, www.kuckispub.com, or experience a wine tasting at e Grapevine restaurant in town. Call +264 (0)64 404 770.
GETTING THERE
Air Namibia offers two flights daily from Cape Town and Johannesburg to Windhoek and three direct flights a week from Cape Town to Walvis Bay. Daily coastal flights from Cape Town, via Oranjemund and Luderitz are also available.
• Contact 086 010 9716, or go to www.airnamibia.com.na.
For more information on Namibia contact:
Namibia Tourism Board - Johannesburg Tel: 011 702 9602 namibia@lloydorr.com
Namibia Tourism Board - Cape Town Tel: 021 422 3298 namibia@saol.com
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