Den Anker
Published: 08 Jan 06
Category: Contemporary
Gone are the brightly coloured flags slung from the ceiling and the old chairs too. Instead, contemporary chairs and open rafters now reinforce the feeling of space and ai
riness. The emphasis is on simplicity, with white linen runners dressing
the table instead of napery.
Billed as a Belgian bistro, beer features very prominently and an extensive beer list is proffered along with a well-thought-out winelist. There are a host of imported ales, lagers and Trappist beers - some boasting whacking alcohol levels. Den Anker prides itself on its beer selection - and so it should, with each beer given a description and tasting note that helps when making your mind up.
One beer - a Kwak - is served in a bulb-shaped glass and any patron ordering it has to deposit one shoe behind the bar to ensure the return of the glass! At 8% alcohol and R28 it's not for the faint-hearted…
On the winelist there's a good selection of Jordan wines by the glass, along with a small but well chosen range of wines - from Springfield and Nitida Sauvignon Blanc for those bright, sunny summer lunches, to a list of vintage and magnum wines which are perfect for the rabbit and other hearty meat dishes.
Happily the food hasn't changed - it's as good as always. I was tempted by the marrowbones and prawn croquettes under the starter options that they do so well, but opted instead for the salade au lardons, a generous mound of lettuce accompanied by crisply fried lardons, croutons, onion and topped by a poached egg. Across the table there was no contemplation necessary. The steak tartare - or Toast Cannibale to give it its correct menu description - was ordered immediately. Accompanied by capers, mustard, chopped onion and mayo on the side, it was consumed with lots of lipsmacking and contented murmurs.
It was the same for mains - moules and frites, no question. A big black pot belched fragrant steam when opened. It's a generous helping, tastily prepared with white wine and herbs and chock full of fat Langebaan mussels. The frites are worth ordering on their own - thin and crispy and served with mayonnaise, the Belgian way.
The steak with a béarnaise sauce tempted, along with the rabbit and beef carbonnade - but the casserole au fruit de mer won out. It was superb - packed with prawns, crayfish medallions, linefish and a few (fat) mussels. But it was the sauce that impressed most, a delicious fishy gravy delicately flavoured with Pernod.
My sweet tooth ensures that dessert is the favourite part of any meal and while I seriously considered opting for the homemade ice-cream, purely because the chocolate sauce is made with divine Belgian Callebaut chocolate, the flambéed crepes was what I ordered eventually. And was I glad I had! I had to be restrained from licking the plate because the citrus and Grand Marnier sauce was so marmaladey and more-ish…
It was also refreshing to see the crème brûlée dish with telltale tiny vanilla seeds lining the sides, indicating that a genuine vanilla pod was used rather than extract or essence. It was superb.
Summing up I'd have to say that it's so nice to go to a place that lives up to - and exceeds - expectations. Everything was top notch and I'd happily revisit Den Anker any time.
Average price of a three-course meal: R150.
Address: Den Anker. Pierhead, V & A Waterfront, Cape Town. Tel: 021 419 0249. Open daily for lunch and dinner. No BYO.
Food:
Wine list
Ambience:
Service:
Value:
Gone are the brightly coloured flags slung from the ceiling and the old chairs too. Instead, contemporary chairs and open rafters now reinforce the feeling of space and ai
Billed as a Belgian bistro, beer features very prominently and an extensive beer list is proffered along with a well-thought-out winelist. There are a host of imported ales, lagers and Trappist beers - some boasting whacking alcohol levels. Den Anker prides itself on its beer selection - and so it should, with each beer given a description and tasting note that helps when making your mind up.
One beer - a Kwak - is served in a bulb-shaped glass and any patron ordering it has to deposit one shoe behind the bar to ensure the return of the glass! At 8% alcohol and R28 it's not for the faint-hearted…
On the winelist there's a good selection of Jordan wines by the glass, along with a small but well chosen range of wines - from Springfield and Nitida Sauvignon Blanc for those bright, sunny summer lunches, to a list of vintage and magnum wines which are perfect for the rabbit and other hearty meat dishes.
Happily the food hasn't changed - it's as good as always. I was tempted by the marrowbones and prawn croquettes under the starter options that they do so well, but opted instead for the salade au lardons, a generous mound of lettuce accompanied by crisply fried lardons, croutons, onion and topped by a poached egg. Across the table there was no contemplation necessary. The steak tartare - or Toast Cannibale to give it its correct menu description - was ordered immediately. Accompanied by capers, mustard, chopped onion and mayo on the side, it was consumed with lots of lipsmacking and contented murmurs.
It was the same for mains - moules and frites, no question. A big black pot belched fragrant steam when opened. It's a generous helping, tastily prepared with white wine and herbs and chock full of fat Langebaan mussels. The frites are worth ordering on their own - thin and crispy and served with mayonnaise, the Belgian way.
The steak with a béarnaise sauce tempted, along with the rabbit and beef carbonnade - but the casserole au fruit de mer won out. It was superb - packed with prawns, crayfish medallions, linefish and a few (fat) mussels. But it was the sauce that impressed most, a delicious fishy gravy delicately flavoured with Pernod.
My sweet tooth ensures that dessert is the favourite part of any meal and while I seriously considered opting for the homemade ice-cream, purely because the chocolate sauce is made with divine Belgian Callebaut chocolate, the flambéed crepes was what I ordered eventually. And was I glad I had! I had to be restrained from licking the plate because the citrus and Grand Marnier sauce was so marmaladey and more-ish…
It was also refreshing to see the crème brûlée dish with telltale tiny vanilla seeds lining the sides, indicating that a genuine vanilla pod was used rather than extract or essence. It was superb.
Summing up I'd have to say that it's so nice to go to a place that lives up to - and exceeds - expectations. Everything was top notch and I'd happily revisit Den Anker any time.
Average price of a three-course meal: R150.
By Fiona McDonald
Address: Den Anker. Pierhead, V & A Waterfront, Cape Town. Tel: 021 419 0249. Open daily for lunch and dinner. No BYO.
Food:
Wine list
Ambience:
Service:
Value:
