De Grendel tasting room review
On arriving, the somewhat obscure location takes you by surprise. Situated on the other side of the hill from the rest of the Durbanville wine route, M13, the farm entrance appears out of the blue, seconds after turning off from mainstream roads amid suburbia.
It's a launch straight from town into farm territory, initially imparting more dairy than wine emphasis, but a meandering road eventually leads to cellar and tasting room.
The cellar is backed by the Tygerberg hills, a site chosen for its good "ch'i" - and herein lies one of the many facets of De Grendel.
Linda Graaff and renowned geomancer Ying-Chung Tsai designed the cellar with the aim of creating a structure in sync with its surrounds. Sure enough, a sense of feng shui is detectable while progressing from the building entrance overlooking the working cellar, through to the tasting area with its uncomplicated design.
An adjacent balcony elicits further reaction with its fairly unexpected sweeping view, the result of De Grendel's unique aspect. Not many viewpoints in the Cape incorporate the fl ow of Atlantic Ocean blending into Signal Hill, Lion's Head, Table Mountain, and the surrounds of Plattekloof, Durbanville and Tygerberg.
Steeped in political heritage, the Graaff name has over 100 years of history and several generations of repute. Sir David of the late 1800s became mayor of Cape Town, and bought the farm to stable Arab horses. His son, Sir De Villiers, became leader of the opposition (the United Party) in 1956 but returned to the farm to breed prize-winning Holstein cattle and German Merino sheep.
Today, the third generation son and current baronet, Sir David, has also moved from politics to farming, putting the site under vine and releasing wines from 2000.
The farm retains the essence of its past thanks to the presence of sheep and cattle, and its name, which is Dutch for a stable door latch. In the tasting area, pourers and staff offer a relaxed welcome.
The winelist focuses on a premium range, and there's a distinctive element across all of the wines - no doubt the imprint of winemaker Charles Hopkins. The Koetshuis Sauvignon Blanc 2009 (R80) is fresh and crisp, with gooseberry zest and the idiosyncratic "greenness" of Sauvignons from the Durbanville area, known for its cooler climate.
A special reserve wine comes from a specific block situated next to the old coach house, where soil types vary. The Winifred 2008 (R80), named after the owner's wife, is the Chardonnay-Viognier-Semillon blend, a wine with vibrant personality and charm, and rich peach flavours and buttery notes.
The Pinot Noir, Op Die Berg 2008 (R135), comes from grapes grown 7km from the ocean and 350m above sea level, off ering red cherry character, structure and a smooth finish. The Rubaiyat blend (R240) has black fruit, spice and vanilla.
It comprises some of the Bordeaux brothers, matured in French Oak, and is named after the famous collection of quatrains from Omar Khayyam. Each vintage will have a particular grape-themed stanza on the label.
The Sundowner Special on Friday evenings is R100 per head and requires booking for this three-course styled canapé spread, including a selection of cheeses, pâtés, ostrich, chicken or prawn kebabs, salads, and koeksisters with ginger cream.
Winter centres around hearty soups and home-baked breads. A permanent restaurant might be a further avenue of potential here.
De Grendel, Plattekloof Road
Mon-Fri 9 am - 5 pm Sat-Sun 10 am - 4 pm
Tel: 021 558 6280, www.degrendel.co.za
NEIGHBOURS OF NOTE
Nitida - Renowned for Sauvignon Blanc, there's also Cassia Restaurant on the deck, a great lunch spot also with a sushi menu. Bloemendal - Wines to try are Cap Classique Bloemendal Brut and Sauvignon Blanc.
A conference centre seats between 20 and 50 guests; the medieval Cellar Venue between 50 and 120.
The Poplars, D'Aria - They've extended their range with the addition of the D'Aria Merlot and the Merlot-Cab blend.
This is also an award-winning venue for great dining, from lamb shank and Eisbein to crispy duck.
Altydgedacht - Wines of interest are the Gewürtzraminer and Barbera, a traditional northern Italian variety with spiciness, tobacco tones and cherry fruit.
OVERALL RATING: ★ ★ ★ ★
WINES: select range showing quality
SERVICE: helpful, relaxed
AMBIENCE: panoramic views, tranquil setting
