Cotage Fromage

In its new incarnation it jars somewhat with its nomenclature. It is no longer simply about cheese platters and nor is it very cottagey. Gone is the small, somewhat dark but cosy feel. In its place is a large, light and airy contemporary venue which makes the most of its fantastic mountain, valley and vineyard views. Large glass doors fold back allowing the outside in – or can be closed should the wind become too much of a factor. As a result there’s a good flow between the restaurant proper and the paved terrace area which is ideal for long, lazy summertime lunches.

In charge of the kitchen which has doubled in size is Duncan Doherty with JP Smith and Matthew Gordon. The talented team boasts years of experience – and all of this is being called upon to keep up with the demand of not only the restaurant but outside catering and all the weddings which take place at Vrede en Lust, one of the winelands’ most successful marriage venues.

Smith is passionate about bread – and it features prominently on the menu in the form of sourdough, Guinness and 60% rye breads, to mention but a few. It’s also for sale, along with a range of local cheeses from the deli counter inside.

I decided to release some colleagues from office bondage for an impromptu lunch. We got more than we bargained for. The food was seriously impressive and the service really good.

Starters include roasted beetroot salad (R50), jalapeño tiger prawn and avo salad (R70) and panzanella with roasted summer vegetables (R45). The salad of Franschhoek salmon trout, baby potatoes, walnuts and asparagus on a bed of salad leaves, topped with a poached egg and a dill and cucumber dressing was delicious, with ample salmon trout and the potatoes and rocket adding a peppery bite (R60).

The designer loved the look of her open sandwich (R55). On top of the Guinness bread was a heap almost two inches high of Mediterranean vegetables – roasted red and yellow peppers, courgette and braised aubergine. Ample sundried tomato pesto and pecorino cheese shavings too.

But the dish that won hands down was, of course, mine! It was the duck club sandwich (R65): shredded confit of duck on a 60% rye and candied orange loaf with brandied apricots and topped with crispy bacon and an egg. The richness of the duck and the saltiness of the crisp bacon were cut nicely by the sweetness of the apricots.

For more hearty appetites try the quiche and salad (it changes regularly, depending on what’s in season or available or simply the creativity and mood of the chefs), the vanilla and coriander marinated rack of lamb with mashed canellini beans and roasted garlic with minted pea pesto (R95), the linefish of the day or a gnocchi with wild mushroom, Gruyère and Sauvignon Blanc cream sauce (R60). Retaining some of its previous incarnation’s winning recipe, there are a range of cheese platters available – some specialist goat’s cheese, pecorino only, pungent cheeses or even the Tulbagh or connoisseur platter. Most are R60 or R65.

To drink there are the Vrede en Lust wines either by the bottle or by the glass. The Rosé (featured in the January issue of WINE as a food and wine pairing) was popular among patrons, as was the Sauvignon Blanc at R20 a glass. The most expensive wine on the list is the Vrede en Lust Reserve 2003 at just R145 a bottle!

Also worth noting is the quality of their coffee which is superb. All of us left vowing to visit again – possibly even starting a day of wine touring there with a good breakfast. Perhaps the warm banana and pecan muffin with vanilla mascarpone or the pancetta, egg and tomato tart with sautéed wild mushrooms and crème fraiche… but then the truffled scrambled eggs with smoked Franschhoek salmon trout on a toasted croissant sounded equally good too. Decisions, decisions!

Average cost of a three-course meal, without wine: R140.
Address: VREDE EN LUST FARM, OFF R45,
SIMONDIUM
Tel: 021 874-3991
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