Constantia wine valley
Close to heart
Located only minutes from the centre of town, Constantia is the oldest and one of the most beautiful winemaking areas in South Africa. By Jeanri-Tine van Zyl.
No wonder Constantia is one of South Africa's most upmarket suburbs. With vineyards, an abundance of oak trees, gabled homesteads, groves of forest and views of Table Mountain's rear, the Constantia Valley impresses with its gentle, classy nature that effortlessly "wows".
Constantia is called such because Simon van der Stel, first governor of the Cape under Dutch settlement, was granted land here at the end of the 17th century and gave this name to his farm. There are, however, other historical characters possibly not as well known as Van der Stel, who add colour to the history of the area.
Much of this history is associated with the wines of the valley. There's the famed Vin de Constance, notably craved by Charles Dickens and Jane Austen with Napoleon Bonaparte also hitting cold turkey without his fix of this sweet wine.
Recent releases from Constantia also capitalise on the rich history of the area. Steenberg winemaker JD Pretorius has a real knack for relaying the antiquity associated with the farm's wine labels, his colourful descriptions of the past being as entertaining and enjoyable as the wines.
During my visit to the farm's new tasting lounge and bistro area, he tells me about the new Sauvignon Blanc in the Steenberg stable. It commemorates a brave 16-gun British navy sloop that fought in the battle of Muizenberg. With wooded components and a bracing acidic bite, the wine aptly represents the ship it is named after - HMS Rattlesnake.
More elegant both in name and makeup is the Catharina red blend, which pays homage to the brave "Widow Ras" who was the original owner of the farm. "She survived five husbands," Pretorius laughs. "You would expect men to have become rather wary after the first one or two passed away."
Though recalling history is very much a natural inclination when driving from one winery to the next, the Constantia wine route has undergone significant expansion in recent times.
Wine farms that today comprise the Constantia wine route are: Steenberg (established in 1990 and first bottling 1996), Klein Constantia (established in 1823 and first bottling in the modern era in 1986), Groot Constantia (established in 1685 and first bottling in 1688), Buitenverwachting (established in 1796 and first bottling in the modern era in 1985), Constantia Glen (established in 2000 and first bottling in 2005), Constantia Uitsig (established in 1988 and first bottling in 1993), High Constantia (established in 1693 and first bottling in the modern era in 2000) and Eagles' Nest (established in 2001 and first bottling in 2005).
When visiting, be willing to embrace a lifestyle that reflects the aristocratic past of the valley, since you'll find some of South Africa's most noble of establishments in a rather concentrated area.
It is lavishness that comes at a cost, but in Constantia it is almost natural to allow for some or other form of indulgence - even if just for a night. The establishments with proud reputations don't dare put a dent in their good name; therefore you can rest assured that your investment in enjoyment won't be a waste - quite the contrary, in fact.
WHERE TO STAY
The Cellars-Hohenort
93 Brommersvlei Road, Constantia. Tel 021 794 2137, www.cellars-hohenort.com
The Cellars-Hohenort is renowned for being a relaxed and elegant retreat for well-heeled travellers, whether staying overnight or for a longer period. Situated against the eastern slopes of Table Mountain, this establishment's appeal is undeniably its past: the Klaasenbosch wine cellars date from the 18th century while the Hohenort Manor House, previously owned by the Spilhaus family, is over 100 years old.
The hotel holds Relais & Châteaux status and the gardens surrounding the buildings have an Eden-like beauty. Here, too, you'll find snapshots of yesteryear. The nine acres of garden are home to centuries-old Camphor trees, the apple of proprietor Liz McGrath's eye. But while the ancient trees are very much the heart of the property, the rose garden and liberal growths of indigenous plants are equally impressive - and have gained international acclaim - The Cellars-Hohenort having just been awarded the Relais & Châteaux Garden Trophy for 2010.
For those of you who want to enjoy the gardens without spending the night, I recommend relaxing on the patio at The Conservatory Bistro for an alfresco luncheon. Also on premises is The Cape Malay Restaurant where patrons can savour authentic cuisine in the local idiom or simply opt to enjoy bubbles at the oh-so-stylish Martini Bar.
I, however, have booked to experience the tasting menu at on-premises restaurant The Greenhouse - among the top 10 in the 2009 Prudential Eat Out Restaurants Awards, with its tasting menu claiming the number one spot overall nationally - but before I do, I take a stroll through the gardens. Setting foot on the garden path, I am immediately enveloped by a welcoming coolness and the oozing sweet scent of the foliage. It's a walk that is utterly dreamy.
With the exterior too imposing not to have been incorporated at The Greenhouse Restaurant, a 100-year-old oak tree takes centre stage, its "eye" looking at diners through the big plate glass windows - not unlike the Ents, a fictional race of talking, walking trees in JRR Tolkien's famous Lord of the Rings.
Chef Peter Tempelhoff allowed his mind to be equally inspired when comprising The Greenhouse's Spring tasting menu. Expect original, delicate flavours that are complemented by a range of wines sourced from the Constantia Valley.
In print alone the tasting menu entices, and I can't help but allow anticipation to mount between the moments that Michael Goliath, our host extraordinaire, disappears with a "Oui, mademoiselle" until he reappears with another elegantly plated dish.
How does carpaccio of Atlantic tuna and perlemoen with wasabi bavarois, followed by quail and guinea fowl terrine along with foie gras mousse, before a serving of poached Franschhoek salmon trout and a dollop of Champagne velouté and cherry crusted springbok loin, sound? I eat contentedly - with the Ent cradling the moon in its bough and watching us.
WHERE TO EAT
La Colombe
Constantia Uitsig, Spaanschemat River Road, Constantia. Tel 021 794 2390. www.constantia-uitsig.com/pages/ restaurants/la-colombe.php
According to the annual Prudential Eat Out Awards, La Colombe restaurant at Constantia Uitsig is South Africa's top restaurant, a feat it has achieved for the second year running. It was also included among the San Pellegrino World's 50 Best Restaurants Awards 2009. It's worth a visit.
Meals are described as "classic and contemporary French" with chef Luke Dale-Roberts also hinting at some Asian inspiration (his cubed kudu tartare with slithers of ginger being a signature favourite). Take note, however, that with La Colombe successfully established as one of South Africa's essential fine dining experience, diners have to book weeks - if not months - in advance to secure a table.
The setting complements expectations with La Colombe's interiors being immaculate, and white linen and hints of rosepink providing the restaurant with a cosy feel in an otherwise understated in-house area. Outside, the establishment takes on a romantic air. Tables are arranged along a pebbled courtyard with a fountain dimly lit in its centre. Perched on the side of the lit pool are three geese, cocky but beautiful, seemingly trained to add to the aesthetic appeal of the establishment.
Waddling along in perfect unison, the proximity of these birds might deter some from trying the terrine of foie gras. Although this delicacy is made from duck and not goose liver, the geese's resemblance to their smaller cousins might be too close for comfort for sensitive diners.
Luckily the menu provides with ample equally enticing substitutes, reiterated by my friendly host Lucy, who informs me that "you can't go wrong with anything as everything is fantastic". Which it really, really is.
I allow the supremely confident Lucy to guide us on our culinary journey as she provides us with wine and food recommendations. To start, fine slithers of ox tongue with pickled mushrooms for me and a fricassee of quail and langoustine for my dining partner.
The former provides an excellent match for my De Grendel Pinot Noir, while my partner nods with satisfaction as another glass of Constantia Uitsig Semillon is poured for him. Mains include different cuts of suckling pig, served with braised cabbage infused jus, and lamb with smoke tomato ratatouille, served with concasse and rosemary-infused lamb jus, both matched with Uitsig's Cabernet Sauvignon-dominated red blend.
Dessert is decadence to bowl you over, with choices ranging from fresh, invigorating flavours such as fresh strawberries and lemon and rhubarb terrine to the absolute indulgent temptations of chocolate truffle and cashew nut parfait. Again, there is no wrong choice.
Finally, delicious petits fours are accompanied by Vin de Constance and Constantia Uitsig's Muscat de Frontignan and a salutation to a hearty night.
OTHER OPTIONS
While Constantia is brimming with numerous chic accommodation establishments, don't overlook the well-established Alphen Hotel (Tel 021 794 5011).
The hotel has recently undergone a renovation. It boasts the vibey Boer & Brit pub serving reasonably priced fair, while chef Simon Kemp offers fine dining at Cloete's Restaurant.
On the wine farm front, Constantia Uitsig Hotel and Spa offers luxurious acommodation in a breathtaking garden setting. On the same grounds is an inviting wine shop as well as a selection of top restaurants. Besides La Colombe, there's Constantia Uitsig Restaurant (Tel 021 794 3010) with a menu centred around regional Italian fare, while The River Café (Tel 021 794 3010) provides a more casual, bistro-style dining experience with breakfasts, lunches and afternoon teas on the menu.
Situated against the mountains of the same name, you'll find the Steenberg golf and wine estate. Stay at the luxury hotel and spa (Tel 021 713 222), and enjoy yet another very good deluxe restaurant, namely Catharina's.
Steenberg has also recently expanded its visitor experience even further with the opening of Bistro Sixteen82 (Tel 021 713 2211), adjacent to a classy tasting lounge and new wine tasting bar. With water features in abundance, this is the sundowner spot in Constantia. Sip Steenberg Semillon and match it with tapas. Unbeatable.
Also in the neighbourhood is Pastis Bistro Brasserie at High Constantia Centre for French country fare just a stone's throw away from Groot Constantia. It comes happily recommended by all who know the valley. Tel 021 794 8334.
Peddlars on the Bend is perhaps the most well-known casual spot in the valley, and it has been for 15 years running. It attracts a steady flow of happy customers - and it's easy to understand why. There's a pretty decent wine selection, a great garden setting and hearty meals with a very reasonable (some might say admirable) corkage system. Tel 021 794 7747.
Order a picnic baskets to enjoy on the lawns at the historic Buitenverwachting wine farm. Tel 021 794 5190.
Boela Gerber, winemaker at Groot Constantia, recommends eggs Florentine at Jonkershuis on Groot Constantia for Sunday breakfast, adding that "listening to local jazz music over a glass of red wine at Simon's at Groot Constantia is obviously the perfect way to end the weekend". Tel 021 794 5128.
