Constantia Uitsig
Published: 01 Oct 03
Category: Cosmopolitan
If there is a restaurant enshrined in the hearts of Capetonians, this is it. Even on wintry, hibernation-inducing nights, it bursts at the seams - unlike many of the city's eateries that see numbers dwindle as the sun (and sun seekers) depart.
The attraction is a combination of reassuring familiarity, rural tranquillity, and food cooked from the heart and paired with fine wine. The informality of the venue is a drawcard. So is the attentive and informed service. But the real pulling power is vested in the chef, who was there at the beginning and is still in the kitchen (though he'd prefer to be known as a cook).
In one of those magic moments of synchro-nicity, Johannesburg restaurateur Frank Swainston was looking for a new challenge when David and Marlene McCay, owners of Constantia Uitsig farm, were planning a restaurant. He was on holiday in the Cape, drove past the gate, then on the spur of the moment, drove in.
A jovial, Pickwickian figure, he enjoys the instant gratification of the job. To quote from that mouthwatering cook book Constantia Uitsig: "I like being under pressure and love seeing the immediate results - joy and satisfaction - of my work."
The relaxed restaurant. with its vineyard and mountain backdrop, is the perfect setting for robust dishes like aubergine and celery caponata, clam-based spaghetti Viareggina, and crespelle di verdua (a roulade of pancakes layered with mousseline of vegetables on fresh tomato and basil sauce) that has been on the menu since the beginning.
But don't confine yourself to the menu. Bear in mind that Frank's signature foie gras has been described as "a dream with your eyes open". And listen attentively to the specials, for the daily availability of fresh produce determines the kit-chen's creativity.
The finely sliced, traditionally dressed raw beef carpaccio is an entrenched favourite; carpaccio di pesce nods to the east with a soy, sesame seed oil, ginger and seaweed dressing; the Cae-sar salad is a faithful recreation of a New York classic - and Frank's made it this way for 40 years.
Fresh fish is crusted with cumin and served with white wine and onion vinaigrette; honey and lemon sauce adds interest to rare springbok loin; slow-roasted shoulder of lamb with almond and raisin dotted spinach and roast potatoes is utterly delicious; and tomato-rich trippa alla Fiorentina moves some 50kg of tripe a week.
Desserts are richly satisfying. If you can bear to forgo the sensual and picture-perfect marquise au chocolat (most regulars can't), take comfort from sticky toffee pud and caramel sauce. Celebrate summer with that adult variation of a nursery classic: cold bread-and-butter pudding and a dollop of cream.
Winelist
An excellent selection of the best the Cape has to offer, with a particular focus on the Constantia Valley, and some mature wines. Vintages and useful tasting notes are included. BYO not encouraged. R25 for special wines.
Average 3-course meal R250
Vegetarian friendly
br />Address: Spaanschemat River Road, Constantia. Tel 021 794 4480. Lunch & dinner Mon-Sun. Secure parking. Separate smoking section
Food: 4.5
Wine list4
Ambience: 4
Service: 4.5
Value: 4
If there is a restaurant enshrined in the hearts of Capetonians, this is it. Even on wintry, hibernation-inducing nights, it bursts at the seams - unlike many of the city's eateries that see numbers dwindle as the sun (and sun seekers) depart.
The attraction is a combination of reassuring familiarity, rural tranquillity, and food cooked from the heart and paired with fine wine. The informality of the venue is a drawcard. So is the attentive and informed service. But the real pulling power is vested in the chef, who was there at the beginning and is still in the kitchen (though he'd prefer to be known as a cook).
In one of those magic moments of synchro-nicity, Johannesburg restaurateur Frank Swainston was looking for a new challenge when David and Marlene McCay, owners of Constantia Uitsig farm, were planning a restaurant. He was on holiday in the Cape, drove past the gate, then on the spur of the moment, drove in.
A jovial, Pickwickian figure, he enjoys the instant gratification of the job. To quote from that mouthwatering cook book Constantia Uitsig: "I like being under pressure and love seeing the immediate results - joy and satisfaction - of my work."
The relaxed restaurant. with its vineyard and mountain backdrop, is the perfect setting for robust dishes like aubergine and celery caponata, clam-based spaghetti Viareggina, and crespelle di verdua (a roulade of pancakes layered with mousseline of vegetables on fresh tomato and basil sauce) that has been on the menu since the beginning.
But don't confine yourself to the menu. Bear in mind that Frank's signature foie gras has been described as "a dream with your eyes open". And listen attentively to the specials, for the daily availability of fresh produce determines the kit-chen's creativity.
The finely sliced, traditionally dressed raw beef carpaccio is an entrenched favourite; carpaccio di pesce nods to the east with a soy, sesame seed oil, ginger and seaweed dressing; the Cae-sar salad is a faithful recreation of a New York classic - and Frank's made it this way for 40 years.
Fresh fish is crusted with cumin and served with white wine and onion vinaigrette; honey and lemon sauce adds interest to rare springbok loin; slow-roasted shoulder of lamb with almond and raisin dotted spinach and roast potatoes is utterly delicious; and tomato-rich trippa alla Fiorentina moves some 50kg of tripe a week.
Desserts are richly satisfying. If you can bear to forgo the sensual and picture-perfect marquise au chocolat (most regulars can't), take comfort from sticky toffee pud and caramel sauce. Celebrate summer with that adult variation of a nursery classic: cold bread-and-butter pudding and a dollop of cream.
Winelist
An excellent selection of the best the Cape has to offer, with a particular focus on the Constantia Valley, and some mature wines. Vintages and useful tasting notes are included. BYO not encouraged. R25 for special wines.
Average 3-course meal R250
Vegetarian friendly
by Jos Baker
<
Food: 4.5
Wine list4
Ambience: 4
Service: 4.5
Value: 4
