Constantia Nek: A natty bit of valley
THE ROUTE
There’s little to beat the experience of taking to the road, and the indulgence of stops along the way; a feeling of ‘being away from it all’. But you may be surprised to find that in the heart of Cape Town lies the oldest wine-producing region in the southern hemisphere, dating back to 1685, with a route that does not take more than a 15-minute drive from start to finish. Despite the brevity, it does allow for a host of pleasurable hours spent tasting, exploring and, of course, decent pause for enjoying. Of particular note is the unexpected diversity of each winery. Taking the M3, turn off at Rhodes Drive which will take you past Kirstenbosch Gardens and eventually to the Constantia Nek roundabout. From there a quick left to Old Constantia Main Road, M41.
It’s a rainy day as we set out to explore the area, a signal of a personal favourite season: autumn. And few better places to experience this than Constantia, with the leaves of oak-tree-lined lanes beginning to turn the warm, deep glow of an oaked, aged Chardonnay. Here the rain falls in gentle spurts, at times irritating in its diagonal slant, but wine-routing simply lends itself to the cold, wet seasons. It fills one with a kind of inner cosiness, and while the cool colours cascade outside, there is a promise of warm inner radiance behind cellar doors, with a dollop of good red wine, a splash of friendly hospitality, and even the possibility of a fireside beside which to enjoy it all.
FIRST STOP:CONSTANTIA GLEN
Producers of top-quality wines, Constantia Glen recently opened a tasting room for the public. A winding brick road up the hill allows for a view back on a steep but Cape-personified sweep of Constantia vineyards.
The tasting room is all about farmhouse rustic, historical elegance. Our pourer is a fabulous host. She is full of the spark and energy of youth, her enthusiasm and appreciation contagious as she takes us through the wines.
There is the inimitable Sauvignon Blanc 2009 (R100), full of the bright acidity expected of a cool climate closely akin to the ocean, and the depth of flavour found from Constantia. In this vintage there is a small 8% of Semillon which is detectable in the roundness and full-palate fervour of each sip.
Constantia Glen Three (R150) and Five (R245), both 2007 vintage, varying from three to the five traditional varieties of Cab Sav, Cab Franc, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Malbec, make up the estate’s Bordeaux-style blends (see box alongside for more about what makes up a Bordeaux-style blend). It is hard to say whether the Three or the Five is the more favoured – each have their place for different occasions. The Malbec certainly adds an additional special flavour in the Five.
Constantia Glen Saddle 2006 (R65) is a best-value buy, but can be bought only at the tasting room while stocks last. It would go down a real treat with venison or grilled lamb chops.
SECOND STOP: EAGLES’ NEST
Nestled among high-topped trees without a vine in sight, Eagles’ Nest is named such because of the black eagles which nest here. The tasting room is different in that it is set in a lower part of the valley as opposed to sitting atop a hill and looking down over vineyards. The tastingroom assistant is again very helpful and accommodating, something that so far seems to be a common denominator on the route.
Eagles’ Nest was originally a section of Groot Constantia, but following a mountain fire in 2000 which destroyed fynbos and forest, it was decided to move the focus to wine. During the winter months the fireplace is in operation, and it’s soul-enriching to sit around a fire in a wine-tasting area while the rain falls like Belgian lace all around. The wines are equally sublime. The Sauvignon Blanc 2010 (R75) is made from grapes brought in from Darling and Durbanville; the winemaker wants to make Sauvignon on the farm but the vineyards are not yet quite ready. It is noticeably more tropical fruit in flavour style as a result. The Viognier 2009 (R125) is worth the price as one of the few excellent examples on offer at the moment, with depth of flavour and complexity. At a bargain is Little Eagle 2008 (R65) with an underlying spiciness and plenty of ripe berries, and the Verreaux 2008 (R145), the name for the black eagle, has a velvet finish. Both are Bordeaux-style red blends. The Shiraz 2009 (R225) is the flagship. The tasting fee of R30 is waived with a purchase of R300. A cheese platter at R45 is also an inviting option.
THIRD STOP: HIGH CONSTANTIA
Turning right into Groot Constantia Road, with a small shopping centre to the left, High Constantia is at ‘Gate 2’ on the right after passing the housing estate at ‘Gate 1’. In through the narrow gates, there is a very small parking area, indicating we’ve come to a truly intimate spot. As we stop, the entrance literally opens into the heart of the cellar. We are immediately transported into the energetic ambience of an authentic, small, but busy, cellar. The magic of arriving at small cellars is that they have a vintage feel: there is no commercialised tasting room; one can stand at a small counter amid all the tanks, barrels and boxes. It can accommodate perhaps six guests at a time and the wine tasting is led by pourers who work in the cellar and entertain us with their anecdotes.
Wide wooden double doors lead onto a verandah also laid out with a small table for summer-time wine tasting. Looking out over the pond across which an old convent is situated (pictured above), it is a marvel how history is captured. The buildings seem from a bygone era; a spire peers through the mist between fir and oak trees, and it feels as if it could almost be a setting in a remote part of Germany.
The wine is spectacular. The Clos Andre MCC (R277) – also available in 375ml (R112.60) – is one of the best South African MCCs we’ve ever tasted. The Sauvignon Blanc 2010 (R86.67) is again indicative of a cool climate. Here they also make some of the few single-varietal reds in Constantia – including the unique and newly launched Petit Verdot (R130). Of note is the Sebastian 2006 (R227) made up of all five grapes of the traditional Bordeaux-style blend, something for a special occasion, with its cassis, coffee and leather notes, confident fruit with oak as a supple support.
FOURTH STOP: LUNCH
When the hunger bug strikes, another interesting stopover en route is a neat little centre that used to house the Old Cape Farm Stall and is now signed as ‘High Constantia Farm Stall Opening Soon’. The eatery incumbents are chain Greens (tel 021 794 7843) offering toasted sandwiches, pizza and light lunches like seared salmon on crushed potatoes; Wang Thai (tel 021 794 0022) offering the usual Thai specialities; and Pastis (tel 021 794 8334), a small French bistro with typical bistro menu and a fireplace in operation, even in late March at the time of visiting.
FIFTH STOP: GROOT CONSTANTIA
During 1778 to 1886, the wines from Groot Constantia were sought after by kings and subject to literary praise worldwide. In 2004, a piece of glass with ‘Constantia Wyn’ was found on an American coast, washed up from a ship that had sunk more than 200 years prior, and this has inspired the reconstruction of the original bottle, and the Grand Constance (made from Muscat de Frontignan grapes) trademark.
With all its history and additional attractions, the tasting room caters for larger groups. And the atmosphere is such, with many tables set, and an operation to cater accordingly; pay first, move along to the tasting counter. The tasting-room pourers have the attitude of informing and telling, and providing more insight on request. The Gouverneurs Sauvignon Blanc 2009 (R130) shows some spring fragrance and minerality, and the Reserve White 2009 (R140) also with minerality and interesting orange-blossom flavours, are of superb quality. The Blanc de Noir 2010 is worth a note (R56) with strawberry and red fruits and a balanced acidity. The Shiraz 2008 (R125) is a fine example of the smoky pepperiness this variety is capable of, and the Gouverneurs Reserve 2008 (R220), a Bordeaux-style blend, has interesting rich layers.
There are also the restaurants, Simon’s and Jonkershuis, as well as the art gallery/ museum for an after-lunch perusal. Adjacent to Simon’s there is a large picnic area beneath the shade of oak trees, in frequent use during summer.
ABOUT BORDEAUX-STYLE BLENDS
A traditional Bordeaux-style blend typically, but not exclusively, comprises at least three of five grapes:
CABERNET SAUVIGNON and MERLOT – usually the majority
CABERNET FRANC, MALBEC and PETIT VERDOT – help to add colour, structure and body
The beauty of the blend is that the percentage of each grape used can vary and the winemaker can include more of the variety that stood out in that particular vintage.
PUBS
The region is conveniently close to:
Peddlars on the Bend (Spaanschemat River Road, tel 021 794 7747)
Forrester’s Arms, known affectionately as Forries (52 Newlands Avenue, tel 021 689 5949)
