Chicken, Wild Mushroom and Goji Berry Phyllo Parcel
Handle with care
A phyllo parcel of chicken, mushrooms and berries makes an elegant match for ephemeral Pinot Noir, reports Jeanri-Tine van Zyl.
Situated in the affluent suburb of Waterkloof Ridge in Pretoria, Brasserie de Paris is perfect for those who do not consider chicken schnitzel and spare rib combos a fine dining treat. Here French cuisine that is prepared and plated mindful of all five senses is the norm. "But you'll be surprised how many people in Pretoria prefer their ribs and chips," laughs bubbly, up-and-coming chef Elze Roome, adding that she much prefers serving the "cultured" minority.
Brasserie de Paris is no newcomer to Gauteng's list of restaurants. Before its move to its current location on Aries Street four years ago, this restaurant was drawing patrons on Duncan Street. The reason for relocating was as much a practical as a sentimental consideration since the restaurant is now run from the house in which owner Sarie Jooste Jordaan's husband grew up. Since Johan Jordaan's father was an architect and designed the house himself, it has a personal feel. With the incorporation of the restaurant, the house was renovated by Jordaan Junior, also an architect, to accommodate this new venture.
A partially underground cellar was part of the original house, and indicates that food and wine are treated as equally important. Recently Roome has taken it upon herself to create a winelist "that can one day win a Diner's Club Diamond Award" (currently the restaurant boasts a Platinum). She relates tales of wine-tasting nights "with the bar counter stocked with bottles from one end to the other".
So when tasked with fi nding a match for the Whalehaven Pinot Noir 2007 (rated 4 Stars in this month's category tasting - see page 77), Roome was naturally delighted. After having tried it with various dishes on the menu, it was decided that the chicken, wild mushroom and goji berry phyllo parcel with a creamy sorrel sauce and white truffle oil presented the best match.
"I felt that the goji berries mirrored, without obscuring, the berry flavours of the wine, while the shiitake mushrooms accentuated the secondary earthy notes," says Roome. The sorrel sauce on the other hand counter-balances the acidity of the wine, ensuring a complementary meal deluxe.
Brasserie de Paris, 381 Aries Street,
Waterkloof Ridge. Tel 012 460 3583.
Chicken, Wild Mushroom
and Goji Berry Phyllo Parcel
with Creamy Sorrel Sauce
Serves 4
FILLING
1 Whole cooked chicken, deboned and flaked
1/2 Onion, chopped
30g Goji berries
200g Wild mushrooms
20ml Olive oil
30ml Whole grain mustard
30ml Dijon mustard
5ml Balsamic vinegar
25ml Brandy
10g Thyme
Salt & pepper
PHYLLO
5 Phyllo pastry sheets
50g Butter, melted
SORREL SAUCE
250ml White wine
500ml Chicken stock
250ml Cream
50g Butter
1 cup Sorrel, shredded
1/2 cup Spinach, shredded
5ml Truffle oil
Salt & pepper
FILLING
Sauté the onions in the olive oil until brown. Add the
rest of the filling ingredients, except for the chicken, and
pan fry until the mushrooms are cooked. Add the cooked
chicken and leave overnight to marinate.
PHYLLO PARCELS
Separate and paint the pastry sheets with the melted
butter. Layer an oven dish with the pastry and fill with the
chicken. Cover the parcel with more pastry and bake at
200°C until golden brown.
SORREL SAUCE
Boil the wine until the alcohol evaporates. Add the
chicken stock and reduce to half, then add the cream and
bring to the boil. Add the butter and sorrel, boil until the
sauce thickens. Add the spinach and fi nish off the sauce
with a few drops of truffle oil.
