Champagne breakfasts
We’re not keen on the adjective “best”.
Breakfast is simply too subjective. But after ordering as many eggs, hotcakes and oysters as we could, using foodies’ recommendations to fill in the gaps, we are prepared to name our 15 favourites.
In the Cape and Gauteng, we’re so spoilt for choice as far as urban breakfast venues are concerned that we have drawn up a reserve bench. KwaZulu-Natal (KZN) is a little different. We found few quality breakfast venues for Durban urbanites and, sadly, many with a limited range of Methode Cap Classique (MCC) sparkling wines and Champagnes. We’re pleased winelists in upmarket KZN country lodges often show a more positive picture, but we’ve excluded them from our breakfast listings because these venues generally cater only to stay-over guests.
A one-plate breakfast shouldn’t be underrated, but now and then a blowout brunch is called for. As far as overseas examples go, One-Ninety at the Four Seasons Hotel in Singapore offers Sunday brunch with free-flow Brut Non-Vintage or Rosé Champagne. Most champers drinkers opt for the unlimited Veuve Clicquot Yellow Label option at S$162.40 inclusive (around R870), although a handful of weekly takers get carried away on the Sunday Krug Champagne brunch at S$350.75 inclusive (around R1 894 per head). All brunches include unlimited martinis and mojitos, baby lobster, tiger prawns and oysters.
Okay, so South African brunch isn’t quite there yet, but we are pleased to report a creative quality leap at independent neighbourhood cafés recently. We definitely have a taste for the finer things in life.
Unfortunately, many local venues offer great menus but no flutes of fizz, so aren’t included in our final 15. It might well be that, after a big night out, a repeat cup of strong coffee, the weekend paper and a boiled egg on fresh sourdough are a more appealing choice. Eggs provide a wine-matching challenge, after all. But we’re counting on the fact that you might be up for a glass of bubbly by the time you’ve cleaned your plate. So whatever your preference, here’s to weekend relaxation – and to breakfast sliding into brunch time!
BLOWOUT BRUNCH
Harveys at the Mansions, Winchester Mansions, Sea Point.
Tel 021 434 2351.
banqueting@winchester.co.za
Sunday jazz brunch (11:00 – 14:00).
Adults R195, Children: (0-3yrs) Free. (4 to 12yrs) Half Price
After a big Saturday night, tranquil courtyard tables around a fountain and soothing live sax should put you in a breakfast mood. The continental spread is standard fare while the fish and salad counter seems a little tired. With an egg station, roasts carved on the spot, and tasty desserts including pecan pie or profiteroles, this isn’t the most diverse spread in town. But it is a lovely hotel tradition at a decent price. A complimentary Sunday paper and glass of Pierre Jourdan are included, and staff readily oblige with extra juice and coffee at no charge.
Bubbly: five MCCs; four non-vintage and two vintage Champagnes by the bottle only.
Added sparkle: ask to take coffee – quality Americano on request – to a sea-facing table for a promenade view.
Book in Advance!
Oasis at the Mount Nelson, Gardens,
Cape Town. Tel 021 483 1948 / 1000.
fdeuchar@mountnelson.co.za
Sunday Jazz brunch (11:30 – 15:00).
Adults R225, children (under 12) R105.
With a live band, newspaper and glass of MCC at veranda tables overlooking the pool, you’ll forget you’re not a hotel guest on jazzy Sundays. Bircher muesli and an egg station aside, Oasis favours the “lunch” end of brunch. Five-star flavours and outstanding quality extends to oysters, salmon and prawns on the cold buffet plus Italian-orientated cold options and a DIYWINE style Caesar salad. Asian noodles are made to order, curry and rice is zingy, and roasts include good gravy and Yorkshire pudding. If puddings don’t appeal, pancakes with maple syrup are made to order. Coffee and any drinks cost extra.
Bubbly: two Champagnes, three MCCs by the glass and bottle (Pierre Jourdan). Plentiful vintage Champagnes and MCC selections on an additional list.
Added sparkle: foreign accents ordering Veuve Yellow Label at R875 per bottle.
Sugar Club Restaurant, Beverly Hills Hotel, Umhlanga, Durban.
Tel: 031 561 2211.
paulan@beverlyhillshotel.co.za
Mon to Sun (07:00 – 10:30).
Adults R175, children R80 (Under 12yrs)
While its detractors refer to it as the “heavenly bills”, the Beverly Hills is revered by a cruise liner kind of clientele who love this venue for its sense of occasion and grandeur. Weekend breakfasts don’t deviate from weekday offerings but five stars translate into abundance. The continent is represented by a well-stocked buffet, but hot breakfasts like English fry-ups, kippers or Eggs Benedict are cooked to order. Service can be a little erratic but most locals brush this off and settle with a glass of bubbly in hand to contemplate the breathtaking sea views instead. To maximise those ocean moments, shrug off the plush dining area and book a table on the terrace. Reservations are necessary.
Bubbly: two MCCs and two Champagnes, one of each by the glass.
Added sparkle: undisputedly the vistas of the Indian Ocean.
The Dinning Room at The Saxon, Sandhurst, Johannesburg.
Tel 011 292 6000.
restaurant@saxon.co.za
Sun and public holidays (11:30 – 14:30).
Adults R395 , No children
This is a bling brunch and then some. Award-winning chef Werner Snoek offers a range of indulgent options for a set price. You could order classic breakfast dishes such as Eggs Benedict from the à la carte menu, be served more lunch-like choices such as roast duck from the carvery, or sample the knock-out cold buffet which offers everything from pastries to a cornucopia of crayfish, salmon and oysters. A glass of Rhebokskloof Brut is included in the deal.
Bubbly: eight MCCs (quite a few by the glass) and at least six Champagnes, with more (such as Cristal) on request. Billecart-Salmon and Laurent-Perrier also available by the glass.
Added sparkle: passionate sommeliers are on call throughout brunch. They will gladly bring out bubblies in limited supply from their special stash.
NEIGHBOURHOOD LOCAL
Carlton Café Delicious, Menlo Park, Pretoria.
Tel 012 460 7996.
deli@carltoncafe.co.za
Tues - Fri (8:00 - 11:00) , Sat (08:00 – 14:00).
R30 – R70.
Rachel Botes has become one of Pretoria’s culinary icons. Her very small but very lovely pavement deli-café is regarded by local foodies as one of the best daytime eating spots to grace the city. Baking is her strongest point, and pies, pastries and savoury tarts are gobsmackingly good. From an extensive à la carte menu, the “What Rarebit?” featuring poached egg, cheese and truffle oil on brioche is sinfully wondrous, and the towering breakfast in a burger bun is a favourite hangover remedy. Both food and setting are chic without the chi-chi factor.
Bubbly: unlicensed, but the adjacent Absolute Tops bottle store is a fork stretch away for a varied range of MCCs and Champagne.
Added sparkle: beautifully packaged deli goods to take home include and other baked treats.
Le Souffle, Fourways, Johannesburg.
Tel 011 465 4116. Sat and Sun (09:00 onwards).
R45 – R85.
Marc Guebert, Johannesburg’s beloved French cooking legend (ex Île de France), has gone totally informal with his latest venture: it’s an almost parodically French Bistro-style nook, all checked cloths, brick walls and such. A somewhat charmless shopping centre location is more than made up for by wonderful food and a warm ambience. The extensive brunch menu offers everything from generous sandwiches with utterly fabulous shoestring chips to a host of more regular egg dishes. You can also order anything from the lunch menu if the kitchen is ready, so French onion soup or steak and chips could be brunch options too.
Bubbly: two MCCs, three Champagnes.
Added sparkle: any of Guebert’s famous soufflés are available all day. Not much can top his orange-liqueur soufflé as a weekend morning indulgence.
Market, Berea, Durban. Tel 031 309 8581.
Breakfast Sat (08:00 onwards). R27 – R56.
Considering that Market is one of Durban’s best hangouts, its closed doors on a Sunday are all the more tragic. Try to secure a breakfast table (replica 18th century French wirework) in the mottled shade of the pretty outer courtyard, although this is prime culinary real estate at peak times so you may need to be patient. Owner André Schubert is vegetarian so there are some fabulous concoctions like courgette and corn fritters with roast tomatoes and mascarpone. Sweet potato, paprika and emmental frittata is another favourite. Market’s motto is, “Love what you eat. Eat what you love”, which translates into Eggs Benedict with a citrus hollandaise and fresh asparagus, or banana and cinnamon hotcakes served with honey and crème fraîche.
Bubbly: two Champagnes and three MCCs. Organic Avondale bubbly also by the glass.
Added sparkle: languish at your leisure at a venue that believes in all-day breakfasts.
Miss K, Green Point, Cape Town.
Tel 021 439 9559.
Kirsten@missk.co.za
Sat (8:00 - 12:00) and Sun (08:30 – 13:00). R50 – R62.
Office darlings head to this modern, light and very white space for cakes or lunch during the week. But weekend pavement tables are reserved for those who sleep in and congregate for casual mingling with mates. Chef Kirsten Zschokke’s international experience, eye for quality and a personal twist extend to fresh juices, delectable honeydrizzled ricotta hotcakes with banana, or Eggs Benedict on toasted English muffin (home-roasted gammon is a tasty touch). It all looks great too. New brunch offerings include Croque Monsieur on toasted farmhouse loaf. If serious remedies are required, the “hangover” breakfast (beans, tomato, chorizo, egg of choice and feta) should do the trick. Strong coffee excluded.
Bubbly: two MCCs and Veuve Clicquot Yellow Label. Added sparkle: oversized meringues, deliciously iced cupcakes and homemade granola to take away.
Nice on 4th, Parkhurst, Johannesburg.
Tel 011 788 6286. Tues - Sun (07:30 – 16:00).
R35 – R50.
Laidback but chic café society vibe on a busy strip, with hungover trendies and families cheek by jowl on weekend mornings. Stylish owner Carla Edgar is obsessed with quality and this feeds into everything: eggs are organic, mozzarella is buffalo, salt is Maldon and tableware (damask cloths, heavy cutlery, silver teapots) is what you’d expect from the grandest hotel. Yet children are happily given reign to draw on the walls! Feast on eggs and bacon cooked in little toast “baskets” or tender crumpets with Canadian maple syrup, and finish with the best flourless bittersweet chocolate cake for miles. Service can be slow, so chill out and go with the flow.
Bubbly: one MCC and two Champagnes.
Added sparkle: pre-order some truly wonderful whole cakes and tarts to take home.
The Foodbarn, Noordhoek. Tel 021 789 1390.
Breakfast Sat and Sun (08:00 – 11:00).
R32 – R57.
The place looks a little scruffy, the menus might be sticky and you may queue for service in summer but, oh, the food is good… While a yoghurt terrine with red berry compote and homemade granola is deliciously healthy, all resolve crumbles when confronted with Franck Dangereux’s outstanding poached egg options – Benedict, smoked salmon or, a personal favourite, eggs wrapped in Parma ham on potato rösti, asparagus and shrooms, drowned in hollandaise. Kids have their own menu. Thanks to a bakery on site, yummy French toast with maple syrup and bacon is fashioned from ciabatta, while coffee includes a shortbread biscuit.
Bubbly: two boutique Constantia MCCs, plus Pierre Jourdan Belle Rose and Brut. The latter is by the glass.
purchase homemade granola, rusks, breads and bakes to go.
Salmon Bar at the Yard, Bordeaux Street,
Franschhoek. Tel 021 876 4591. Breakfast
Mon - Sun (09:00 onwards). R25 – R55.
With a plethora of restaurants to choose from, Franschhoek locals have high gourmet standards, so packed seats at Silwood-trained Judy Sendzul’s casual courtyard café are a telling indication. Business partner Gregg Stubbs of Franschhoek’s Three Streams Trout flies in salmon from Norway, Scotland, Chile and Alaska, so the popularity of the Salmon Bar’s hot-smoked peppered Norwegian with poached eggs, hollandaise and melba wafers is a no-brainer. Cold-smoked local trout with scrambled eggs and toasted croissant is the other breakfast favourite. Quality breads are baked on site – trout or salmon bagels are also good – and good coffee is sipped at modern white tables and chairs.
Bubbly: two Franschhoek MCCs, plus Bollinger and Tribaut. All are offered by the bottle and glass. Added sparkle: breakfast and bubbly all day.
VIEWS TOO
The Cradle, Muldersdrift, Krugersdorp.
Tel 011 659 1622. Sat and Sun (08:30 – 12:30).
R50 – R100.
Without doubt, the most beautiful place to indulge in weekend brunch for miles. Where else can you nibble on good fare in elegant surrounds while watching rhino and giraffe meander through a vast swathe of veld? The brunch menu under head chef Adrian Cook is refreshingly unstolid, and caters – in a cleverly unforced way – to many age groups and tastes. Choose just one item or greedily go for many from a list that incorporates dishes such as fruit salad parfait, wild mushroom omelette, and light, fruit-filled coconut pancakes with a fantastic lime and coconut dipping sauce. Booking essential.
Bubbly: four MCCs (most also by the glass), four Champagnes and great Champagne cocktails.
Added sparkle: the beauty of the setting can’t be emphasised enough. Game drives too, if you call ahead.
The River Café, Constantia Uitsig, Constantia.
Tel 021 794 3010.
rivercafe@uitsig.co.za
Breakfast Mon - Sun (08:00 – 11:00).
R38 – R70.
There’s a reason hip youngsters and ladies who brunch head for this chic country spot with veranda tables spilling into the garden as well as warmer enclosed seating options. Signature Eggs Benedict combines streaky bacon curls and saucy poached eggs on potato rösti, while other wake-up options include berried mascarpone flapjacks and salmon/scrambled egg combos. Daily breakfast specials are on offer too. Plenty of run-around space justifies a small kiddies’ menu. And if mornings aren’t your best, Eggs Florentine is on the snack menu from 12.30pm onwards.
Bubbly: four MCCs range from R120 to R350, the latter price referring to Constantia Uitsig’s 2005 MCC which is the only by-the-glass offering at R75. Added sparkle: good food and service with vineyards nearby would appeal to urbanites not keen on making an overly long breakfast trek for country air.
Umami, Salt Rock. Tel 032 525 4615. Brunch
Sat (10:00 – 14:00). No children.
R36 – R78.
A weekend presents the perfect opportunity to take a leisurely drive on the coastal road to Salt Rock, just past Ballito. Here, nestled in an eco-estate, a super-stylish eatery offers a rendezvous point for a designer brunch. Talented chef Talya Botha gives a cursory nod to the English breakfast, presenting it in a croissant. Dishes are as contemporary as the surroundings. They include crumpets with homemade rooibos and honey ice-cream with mixed berries; a gorgonzola tart with apple and raisin chutney (be decadent and nibble a shared tart as a starter); or panini with grilled prawns, soft-boiled egg, rocket and aioli. A reservation is essential to pass through the security gates.
Bubbly: two Proseccos (also by the glass) and two MCCs.
Added sparkle: John and Erica Platter are friends who consult on the winelist.
THE RESERVE BENCH
In the Cape Café Maxim, De Waterkant (Tel 021 425 5102, Sat and Sun, 09:00 - 15:00) appeals for pink bubbly, pink walls and Parisian Poilâne Tartine Benedict or toast soldiers with eggs. Booking Essential.
Kalk Bay locals head for C’est la Vie (Tel 083 676 7430, Sat and Sun, 07:30 onwards), where Jo Hill’s quaint hole-in-the-wall bakery sourdough toast typically partners simple boiled eggs. Adjacent Lisa’s Little Wine Shop obliges with bubbly and flutes on Sat only.
Make a beeline for Cotage Fromage at Vrede en Lust farm (Tel 021 874 8155, Mon - Sun 08:00 – 12:00) outside Franschhoek, for Eggs Benedict on homemade buckwheat English-style muffin with pancetta and citrus hollandaise. MCC by the glass.
Fashionable urbanites head to Manna Epicure, Cape Town CBD (Tel 021 426 2413, Sat and Sun, from 09:00 - 15:00) for breakfasts of coconut bread with scrambled egg and smoked trout with bubbly.
Eggs Benedict aside, the daily special is a favourite order on the Reuben’s veranda in Franschhoek (Tel 021 876 3772, Mon - Sun, 09:00 – 10:30).
In KZN
Bean Bag Bahia in Umdloti (Tel 031 568 2229, Sat and Sun, 8am - 11:30) is one road back from the beach. Bubbly choice is limited but breakfast includes anything from boiled egg and Marmite soldiers to eggs Onassis.
IN GAUTENG
Options include the seriously swish, five-course country brunch menu at Roots, Forum Homini Hotel, Muldersdrift (Tel 011 668 7000, Sat, 07:00 – 10:00).
In Pretoria, Li-Bel, (Tel 012 343 8277, Tues - Sun, 07:30 onwards) offers quality comfort options in a shabby-chic urban café, with MCCs available.
Lai-Lai Gardens, Illovo (Tel 011 268 0219, Sat and Sun, 10:30 – 14:00) serves a brilliant Cantonese dim sum brunch amidst a loud family vibe. With low-grade bubblies, BYO advised.
Moema’s, Parktown North (Tel 011 788 7725, Mon - Fri 07:00 - 12:00, Sat 08:00, Sun 09:00 - 12:00) is an unlicensed, glam-yummy-mummy venue with yummy breakfasts too – try the adjacent bottle store for bubbly.
Or see and be seen brunching at Tortellino D’Oro, Oaklands (Tel 011 483 1249, Sat and Sun 08:00 - 10:30 onwards), with quality MCCs and Champagnes on hand.
