Cargo Hold
Published: 01 Nov 04
Category: Cosmopolitan
Entering the phantom ship via a gangplank, a smartly dressed "officer" leads us below deck to one of two levels where we find ourselves confronted by the sinister stares of huge sharks - separated only by heavy shatterproof glass.
Tables with sparkling white napery await us amid all the signs of a shipwreck recently discovered, creating a romantic and playful ambience, while the cosmopolitan menu invites us to take a culinary journey from Asia to South America, through the Mediterranean and back to KZN.
Crispy Chicken Wontons try to pay homage to Chinese cooking skills, but the heavy pastry and lacklustre filling are disappointing; not even the lovely sweet sesame chilli and ginger dipping sauce can resuscitate the dish. Oysters from Knysna, Namibia or the East Coast of South Africa come served in a number of different styles. The classic way wins, while the Mexican style with Pico di Gallo salsa and spicy nachos leaves no room for the oyster flavours to come forward.
The inviting selection of five salads will have to wait for our next visit; this time a trio of carpaccio seems like a great idea. Smoked ostrich, pepper-crusted beef and Norwegian salmon each come with individual dressings - salsa, Thai and Dijon vinaigrette - and are served on a bed of rocket. Unfortunately the flavours clash and do not support each other; perhaps venison should replace the salmon to make for a more compatible trio?
The four mushroom fettuccini main course is huge; its fricassee of fresh mushrooms, sautéed shallots, thyme and black pepper ample but not memorable. The de-boned oxtail is good winter fare (no bones to interfere with the eating pleasure) and done in a rich tomato and red wine vegetable gravy. Cutting the richness, a citrus and herb gremolat topping is ideal. But the haricot bean mash is stodgy; a better option would be plain mash with haricot beans served separately.
Steaks, poultry dishes, prawns and fish complete the menu - if you can examine it without being distracted by the sharks almost swimming on to your table! As for the winelist, the L'Ormarins Pinot Grigio for R80 catches our interest to accompany our oysters and the Seidelberg Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot at R95 proves an excellent choice for the main courses. Wines by the glass are marked with an asterisk and are priced between R14 and R18 according to the price of the bottle.
Decadent? So what! The Philadelphia and cashew nut wrapped crêpe topped with warm wild berry sauce is delicious and well worth the extra calorie intake. And then coffees can be taken at your table or in big comfortable sofas at the lounge on the deck.
Average three-course meal: R135.
br />Address: uShaka Marine World, Point Road, Durban Tel 031 328 8065. Lunch and dinner daily. BYO R25. Parking in the Marine Park grounds.
Food: 3
Wine list3
Ambience: 5
Service: 4
Value: 3
Entering the phantom ship via a gangplank, a smartly dressed "officer" leads us below deck to one of two levels where we find ourselves confronted by the sinister stares of huge sharks - separated only by heavy shatterproof glass.
Tables with sparkling white napery await us amid all the signs of a shipwreck recently discovered, creating a romantic and playful ambience, while the cosmopolitan menu invites us to take a culinary journey from Asia to South America, through the Mediterranean and back to KZN.
Crispy Chicken Wontons try to pay homage to Chinese cooking skills, but the heavy pastry and lacklustre filling are disappointing; not even the lovely sweet sesame chilli and ginger dipping sauce can resuscitate the dish. Oysters from Knysna, Namibia or the East Coast of South Africa come served in a number of different styles. The classic way wins, while the Mexican style with Pico di Gallo salsa and spicy nachos leaves no room for the oyster flavours to come forward.
The inviting selection of five salads will have to wait for our next visit; this time a trio of carpaccio seems like a great idea. Smoked ostrich, pepper-crusted beef and Norwegian salmon each come with individual dressings - salsa, Thai and Dijon vinaigrette - and are served on a bed of rocket. Unfortunately the flavours clash and do not support each other; perhaps venison should replace the salmon to make for a more compatible trio?
The four mushroom fettuccini main course is huge; its fricassee of fresh mushrooms, sautéed shallots, thyme and black pepper ample but not memorable. The de-boned oxtail is good winter fare (no bones to interfere with the eating pleasure) and done in a rich tomato and red wine vegetable gravy. Cutting the richness, a citrus and herb gremolat topping is ideal. But the haricot bean mash is stodgy; a better option would be plain mash with haricot beans served separately.
Steaks, poultry dishes, prawns and fish complete the menu - if you can examine it without being distracted by the sharks almost swimming on to your table! As for the winelist, the L'Ormarins Pinot Grigio for R80 catches our interest to accompany our oysters and the Seidelberg Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot at R95 proves an excellent choice for the main courses. Wines by the glass are marked with an asterisk and are priced between R14 and R18 according to the price of the bottle.
Decadent? So what! The Philadelphia and cashew nut wrapped crêpe topped with warm wild berry sauce is delicious and well worth the extra calorie intake. And then coffees can be taken at your table or in big comfortable sofas at the lounge on the deck.
Average three-course meal: R135.
By Mechthild Yorke-Mitchell
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Food: 3
Wine list3
Ambience: 5
Service: 4
Value: 3
