Canada, United States of America

Until about 20 years ago, Canada's wines were a beverage best avoided.The North American Labrusca varieties such as Concord and Niagara, and French hybrids like Vidal Blanc and Seyval Blanc, dominated the vineyards, as winemakers widely believed that the vinifera varieties were not hardy enough to survive the severe climate. But vinifera vine varieties have been successfully planted and a new generation of highly motivated winemakers has been upgrading vineyards and wineries, with increasingly pleasing results. An appellation system called Vintners Quality Alliance (VQA) was introduced in 1988.

In total, more than 10 000 hectares are under vine, with most plantings concentrated in Ontario and British Columbia, though there are also one or two dozen winemakers practising extreme farming on the harsh plains of Quebec and Nova Scotia.

Most Canadian vineyards may lie on the same latitude as the Languedoc and Chianti, but Canada's climate is much more challenging, with severe winters, volatile springs and a short growing season. To moderate the potential hazards of this climate, vineyards are situated near the Great Lakes.

Canada's flagship wine is Icewine, an intense, lush dessert wine made from the concentrated juice of frozen berries. Germany may have invented Eiswein in 1796, nearly 200 years before the Canadians began experimenting with it, but Canada's lower temperatures and reliable annual snowfalls have made it the world's largest producer. (Germany's Eiswein production is much more erratic.)

International recognition in the form of prestigious awards has done much to spur on Icewine production, which is very costly, due to the very low yields.

In late December or early January, two months after the normal harvest, when temperatures drop to between -8º and -12º C, the sweet, ripe, frozen grapes selected for making the Icewine are laboriously picked (often right through the icy night) and immediately pressed in the cellar. The grapes' water content is left behind in the form of ice crystals to create a highly concentrated must. Fermenta-tion is very slow, up to four months, and takes place in stainless steel tanks. Alcohol levels are between 10 and 12%, while residual sugar and acid levels are exceptionally high.

Riesling is the grape traditionally used for German Eiswein, but in Cana-da the Riesling grapes don't always survive long enough, so Icewine's mainstay tends to be the thick-skinned Vidal grape.

Lusher than Eiswein, Icewine combines opulent, honeyed fruitiness with a lively, citrussy finish. With bottle age it evolves into something akin to Sauternes or Tokaji.
Inniskillin's 1989 Vidal Icewine was the one that first attracted the world's attention - and acclaim - when it won a Prix d'Honneur at Vinexpo in 1991.

More recently, Jackson-Triggs Vint-ners made waves with their Sparkling Icewine, winning gold at the IWSC this year for a reportedly "glorious" wine that combines the world's two most luxurious wine styles.

ONTARIO

Canada's foremost wine province enjoys similar conditions to those prevailing in the Finger Lakes region in New York State, with two bodies of water, Lake Ontario and Lake Erie, exercising a moderating influence. The steep Niagara escarpment provides shelter.

A wide range of vinifera varieties is grown, reflecting the ethnic diversity of the province's wine producers. Riesling, Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc, Gewürztraminer and Vidal predominate, but Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Pinot Grigio are also planted. Generally, Ontario's white wines are far superior to its reds.

The province's three geographical designations are Niagara Peninsula, Lake Erie North Shore and Pelee Island.

BRITISH COLUMBIA

Bordering Washington state in the United States, British Columbia lies thousands of miles to the west of Ontario. Its vineyard area (1 000 ha) is only about one-tenth that of Ontario. Most of its vineyards are situated in Okanagan Valley in the south east of the province. Varieties grown include Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris. Further south, where summers are hot and arid, Merlot and other red grape varieties are grown.

FACT FILE:

ONTARIO

Grapes: White - Riesling, Chardon-nay. Red - Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Pinot Grigio

Soils: Wide-ranging from sandy loam to gravel, sand and clay.

Climate: Very cool, similar to Burgundy, but with a shorter growing season. The circular airflow from the lakes moderates the cold.

BRITISH COLUMBIA

Grapes: White - Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris. Red - Merlot.

Soils: Sandy loam to clay; rocky gravel towards the south.

Climate: In summer the days are fiercely hot, but the nights are cool. Okanagan Lake provides a moderating effect. www.canwine.com; www.inniskillin.com; www.bcwine.com; www.winesofcanada.com