Buying guide: Viognier

Key findings: A tasting of 35 examples of Viognier is not something to be relished: the wines are typically high in alcohol by volume and carry pronounced residual sugars, this combination making the line-up particularly tiring to work through.

 

That said, there were a few signs of hope. Whereas local examples of Viognier tended to suffer from over-oaking almost across the board not so long ago, there were a handful this time around that showed very little use of oak or even none at all and were all the better for it. When handled correctly, the grape makes for juicy, upfront wines and if that’s what you’re in the mood for, look no further.

★ ★ ★ ✩
Robertson Winery 2008* R32.50
Fleur du Cap Unfiltered 2009*
(Bergkelder) R93

★ ★ ★
Klawer Cellars Birdfield 2010* R25
Riebeek Cellars 2009* R30
Saronsberg 2009 R80
Kanu 2009 R85
Lynx 2010* R100
Bellingham The Bernard Series
Hand-picked 2009* (DGB) ARP R105
Vrede en Lust 2010* R130

★ ★ ✩
Wamakersvallei Bain’s Way 2010* R27
Edenhof 2010 (Schalkenbosch) R28
Zorgvliet Silver Myn 2009* R48
Lourensford 2008* R50
Graham Beck 2009* R60
Ridgeback 2009 R70
Lourensford
Winemaker’s Selection 2009 R80
Flagstone Word of Mouth 2008*
(Constellation Wines SA) R87
Diemersfontein Carpe Diem 2009 R89
Elgin Vintners Third Edition 2009 R90
Lynx 2009* R90
Sterhuis 2009 R90
Fort Simon
Platinum Collection 2009 R105
Backsberg
Babylons Toren 2008* ARP R129

★ ★
Zonnebloem 2009* ARP R37.99
Alvi’s Drift Reserve 2007 R45.60
Stonehill Bristle White 2009* R60
Babylon’s Peak 2009 R67
Cloof Very Vivacious 2010* R75
Tukulu 2008 ARP R77.57
Creation 2010 R90
Topaz 2008 R119
Idiom 2008 R120

★
Lorraine Private Cellar 2008 R75
Radford Dale 2008*
(The Winery of Good Hope) R125

One Viognier tasted did not achieve a Star rating.

PRICES: wines in each quality grouping
are listed in order of ascending price – all
ex-cellar unless otherwise stipulated.
ARP – Approximate retail price
* – Bottled under screwcap