Buying guide: Shiraz Challenge
Shiraz Challenge
About the category: When it comes to Shiraz, two broad styles can be discerned, the first the overtly aromatic, medium bodied, but densely structured wines typical of France's Rhône and the second being the darkly coloured, full-fruited wines made according to South Australia's Barossa Valley template.
Shiraz is an important variety in South Africa, with it occupying close on 10% of the national vineyard at the end of 2007 (second only to Cabernet Sauvignon among reds) and it is to the country's credit that it seems capable of making accomplished examples across the stylistic spectrum.
Key findings: The notion that the South African wine industry is going through a profound period of regional diversification and producer proliferation gains further credence when the Top 10 of the 2009 Shiraz Challenge are considered. The winning wine comes from Diemersdal in Durbanville, the runner-up from Kango Wines in Oudtshoorn, while Elgin, Franschhoek, Paarl, Robertson and Stellenbosch are also represented. No longer is quality Shiraz confined to Paarl and Stellenbosch, as it might have seemed to, ten years ago.
Durbanville winery Diemersdal is on a bit of a roll, with its Shiraz 2007 winning this year's Challenge after its Bordeaux-style red blend Private Collection 2006 was rated five stars in the category tasting reported on in the August issue of WINE magazine. The Shiraz 2007 is made in a modern, accessible style without in any way being facile.
In a sea of rather monolithic wines, it stood out for its clean, pure fruit expression and technical precision. Young winemaker Thys Louw is the sixth generation of his family to be involved at Diemersdal and, along with colleague Mari van der Merwe, has done much to rejuvenate the reputation of the property in recent times.
Mention also needs to be made of the runner-up from unfancied Kango Wines. There will no doubt be those who find this wine idiosyncratic, but that is precisely why the panel liked it: it is much lighter bodied than wines that typically do well in competitions, but it has a wonderfully intriguing flavour profile of red fruit and pronounced spice. Interestingly, the 5.37ha vineyard sits atop the Swartberg between De Rust and Prince Albert at 1 000m above sea level, which reinforces the idea that plantings in interesting locations make for interesting wines.
Soundbite: "It is an entirely incorrect assumption that Shiraz is a forgiving grape. Site selection is crucial" - Gerald Ludwinksi, Cape Wine Master.
JUDGING PROCEDURES
There were 247 entries in total. These were tasted blind by the five-person panel, with scoring done according to the 20 point/5 Star system.
After this first round of judging was concluded, 20 wines were considered to have particular distinction. These went through to a second round where the panel could give them more a detailed examination. Once this round was completed, there was one wine that emerged as the outright winner on the basis of having the highest arithmetic average score, this being Diemersdal 2007.
A Top 10 is also presented in order to draw attention to the depth of quality and breadth of styles that the Shiraz category displays.
AWARDS
Best Value Shiraz
Kango 2008 Best
Shiraz Overall
Diemersdal 2007
BEST VALUE - TOP TEN WINES
Wines rated 2½ stars or better and recommended for particularly good value on
the basis of their quality/price ratio in the context of the average price per bottle:
1. Kango 2008 4½ stars R44
2. Botha 2008 2½ stars R27
3. Koelenbosch 2007 (Koelenhof) 3½ stars R40
4. Fish Hoek 2008* (Constellation Wines SA) 2½ stars R32
5. Havana Hills 2005 ARP 3½ stars R45
6. Diemersdal 2007 4½ stars R58
7. Groot Eiland 2007 (Uniwines) 2½ stars R32.50
8. Slanghoek Private Selection 2007 2½ stars R33
9. Windmeul 2007 2½ stars R34.50
10. Spier 2008 3 stars R44
SHIRAZ CHALLENGE
WINNERS TO DATE
2009: Diemersdal 2007
2008: Nederburg Winemaster's
Reserve 2006
2007: Bon Courage Inkará 2005
2006: Saxenburg Private Collection
2003
2005: Kleine Zalze Family Reserve
2003
2004: Simonsig Merindol 2001
TOP 10 WINES OVERALL
(in order of arithmetic
average score)
1. Diemersdal 2007
2. Kango 2008
3. Neil Ellis Elgin 2007
4. Lynx 2007
5. Nash Family Vineyards
Rhinoceros Hill 2008
5. Windfall 2007
7. GlenWood 2007
7. Klein Zalze Family Reserve 2007
9. Dombeya Boulder Road 2007
10. Windmeul Reserve 2007
Are you getting what you pay for?
Average price of the 247 Shiraz assessed: R99
Average price per 750ml of the 2 wines rated 4½ stars: R51
Average price per 750ml of the 9 wines rated 4 stars: R99
Average price per 750ml of the 39 wines rated 3 to 3½ stars: R98
Average price per 750ml of the 66 wines rated 2½ stars: R105
Average price per 750ml of the 73 wines rated 2 stars: R103
Average price per 750ml of the 58 wines rated less than 2 stars: R88
THE TOP 10 (in order of star rating,
then ascending price)
★ ★ ★ ★ ✩ four and a half stars
Kango 2008
CELLAR PRICE R44
Alc 14.5% RS 1.92g/l TA 5.18g/l pH 3.79
Black with a pale rim. Complex nose showing
red fruit, floral notes and spice. The palate is
medium bodied with sweet fruit, tangy acidity
and supple tannins. Flavours of prunes,
biltong and an appealing stalkiness. Very
reminiscent of the Rhône. Drink now or over
the next year.
CE 18 CA 14.5 JP 17 AL 16 GL 19
Diemersdal 2007
CELLAR PRICE R58
Alc 14.29% RS 3.3g/l TA 6g/l pH 3.65
Deep purple. Optimally ripe dark fruit and
attractive oak aromas on the nose. The palate
is clean and pure with juicy fruit, fresh
acidity and firm, fine tannins. A well balanced,
seamless wine. Keep for 2 to 4 years.
CE 18 CA 18 JP 17 AL 16 GL 17
★ ★ ★ ★ four stars
Windmeul Reserve 2007
CELLAR PR ICE R60
Alc 13.78% RS 3.3g/l TA 5.6g/l pH 3.49
Dense black. The nose shows dark fruit,
chocolate and coffee. Rich and ripe on the
palate with dark fruit and firm tannins.
Extravagant style but well constructed.
Drink now or over next 2 years.
CE 16 CA 17 JP 16 AL 16.5 GL 15
Windfall 2007
APPROXIMATE RETAIL PRICE R78.50
Alc 13.86% RS 2.3g/l TA 6.9g/l pH 3.62
Aromatic nose showing red fruit, white
pepper and spice. Medium bodied with good
fruit expression, fresh acidity and tight, fine
tannins - needs time to soften. Keep for 2
to 4 years.
CE 15 CA 17 JP 16.5 AL 17 GL 16
Nash Family Vineyards
Rhinoceros Hill 2008*
BLACK PE ARL CELLAR PRICE R85
Alc 15% RS 2.4g/l TA 6g/l pH 3.7
Black with purple rim. Very aromatic nose
including plums and jasmine. The palate is
big and bold with sweet, ultra-ripe fruit and
relatively soft tannins. Hint of pepper on
finish. Drink now or over next 2 years.
CE 15.5 CA 16 JP 18.5 AL 15.5 GL 16
Neil Ellis Elgin 2007
CELLAR PRICE R85
Alc 14% RS 2.5g/l TA 6g/l pH 3.5
Deep purple. A brooding nose showing hints
of dark fruit, oak and some appealing fungal
notes. The palate has yet to integrate but
shows juicy fruit, bright acidity and firm
tannins. Some herbaceous character. Keep
for 2 to 4 years.
CE 15 CA 18 JP 16.5 AL 16 GL 17.5
Lynx 2007
CELLAR PRICE R90
Alc 14.56% RS 2.6g/l TA 5.1g/l pH 3.72
Deep purple, pale rim. Hints of chocolate
and spice on otherwise shy nose. The palate
is medium bodied with dark fruit and well
managed oak. Long, peppery finish. Keep for
2 to 4 years.
CE 15.5 CA 17 JP 16.5 AL 18 GL 15
GlenWood 2007
CELLAR PRICE R90
Alc 14.29% RS 2.4g/l TA 5.32g/l pH 3.88
Black, purple rim. Dark fruit, spice and some
reductive character on the nose. Weightless
intensity on the palate with great fruit expression,
fresh acidity and firm, fine tannins.
Very youthful. Keep for 2 to 4 years.
CE 19 CA 16.5 JP 16.5 AL 15 GL 14
Dombeya Boulder Road 2007
CELLAR PRICE R96
Alc 14.4% RS 4.5g/l TA 6.1g/l pH 3.6
Black, purple rim. Aromatic nose showing
floral notes, chocolate and spice gives way
to a medium bodied palate with juicy fruit,
bright acidity and "chewy" tannins. Keep for
2 to 4 years.
CE 16 CA 17.5 JP 17.5 AL 15.5 GL 14
Kleine Zalze Family Reserve 2007
CELLAR PRICE R185
Alc 14.85% RS 3.6g/l TA 6.8g/l pH 3.39
Black, purple rim. Complex nose showing
fragrance, spice and some meaty character.
Big and bold in the mouth with good fruit
expression matched by bright acidity and
firm, fine tannins. Still youthful - keep for 2
to 4 years.
CE 17 CA 14.5 JP 16.5 AL 15.5 GL 17.5
ALSO FOUR STARS
Rudi Schultz Syrah 2007
APPROXIMATE RETAIL PRICE R120
Alc 14.5% RS 2.6g/l TA 4.6g/l pH 3.75
Dark red, purple rim. Ultra-ripe fruit and
oak on the nose and palate. Big and plush
in texture. Notes of pepper and spice lend
interest. Long finish. Drink now or over next
2 years.
CE 14.5 CA 15 JP 17.5 AL 16.5 GL 16.5
THREE AND A HALF STARS
Koelenbosch 2007 (Koelenhof) R40
Havana Hills 2005 ARP R45
e Very Sexy 2007 (Cloof) R75
Raka Biography 2007 R85
Joostenberg Syrah 2007 R90
★ ★ ★ THREE STARS
Spier 2008 R44
Brampton 2007* (Rustenberg) R50
Porcupine Ridge Syrah 2008* R50
(Boekenhoutskloof)
Alvi's Drift Premium Selection 2006 R51.30
Rietvallei 2007 R55
Rhebokskloof 2007 R57
Indalo Nature's Way 2006 (Swartland) R59.70
Indalo Nature's Way 2007 (Swartland) R59.70
Onyx 2007 (Darling Cellar) R74
Welbedacht Syrah 2005 R75
(Schalk Burger & Sons)
Babylon's Peak Syrah 2007 R76
Stellekaya 2006 R77
Hildenbrand 2007 R81
Black Pearl 2007* R85
Black Pearl 2008* R85
Tukulu 2005 (Bergkelder) ARP R86
Fort Simon 2005 R87
Elgin Vintners 2007 R90
Lomond Syrah 2008 (Bergkelder) ARP R95
Groot Constantia 2007 R99
Diemersfontein Carpe Diem 2006 R99
Benguela Cove Maiden Vintage 2007 R105
Thelema 2005 R110
Thelema 2006 R110
Strandveld Syrah 2007 R115
Sumaridge Syrah 2006 R120
Lammershoek Syrah 2007 R120
Saxenburg Private Collection 2006 R130
La Motte Pierneef Shiraz R176
Viognier 2007
Graham Beck e Ridge Syrah 2003 R179
Nicolas vd Merwe Syrah 2007 ARP R180
La Vigne Single Vineyard 2007 R185
Flagstone Dark Horse 2007* R200
(Constellation Wines SA)
Rijk's Private Cellar 2007 R220
★ ★ ✩ TWO AND A HALF STARS
Botha 2008 R27
Fish Hoek 2008* (Constellation Wines SA) R32
Groot Eiland 2007 (Uniwines) R32.50
Slanghoek Private Selection 2007 R33
Windmeul 2007 R34.50
La Ferme Derik Adagio 2007 R40
Excelsior Paddock 2007* R44
Simonsig Mr Borio's 2005 R50
Bovlei Centenary 2007 R50
Bellpost 2006 R54
Groenland 2004 R58
Groenland 2005 R58
Stellenrust 2007 R58
Strandveld First Sighting 2007* R60
Riebeek Reserve 2006 R60
Eureka 2007 R60
Nederburg Winemaster's Reserve 2007 R60
Tokara Zondernaam 2006* R65
Knorhoek 2005 R65
Rico Suter Syrah 2005 R65
Klein Genot Black Swan Reserve 2007 R68
Long Mountain Reserve 2007 ARP R70
Stellenzicht Golden Triangle 2006 R74.78
Spencer Bay 2007 (Namaqua) R75
Zevenwacht Syrah 2006 R75
Kaapzicht 2006 R78
Allée Bleue 2007 R80
KWV Cathedral Cellar 2006 R82
Kleine Zalze Vineyard Selection 2007 R84
Provenance 2006 (Saronsberg) R85
Arendsig Single Vineyard 2007 R85
Manley 2005 R85
Groenland Premium 2006 R85
William Everson handcrafted 2006 R85
Number One R85.60
Constitution Road 2006 (Robertson)
Van Loveren R87
Wolverine Creek Reserve 2007 Kloovenburg 2007 R88
Havana Hills Du Plessis 2005 ARP R89
La Bri Shiraz Viognier 2007 R90
Lourensford Syrah 2007 R90
Amani Pendana 2006 R95
Lomond Syrah 2007 R95.15
(Bergkelder) ARP
Groot Constantia 2006 R99
Stark-Condé Stellenbosch Syrah 2006 R105
Andreas 2006 R105
Cape to Cairo Syrah 2006 R116.67
Muratie 2006 R120
Rudi Schultz Syrah 2006 ARP R120
Muratie 2007 R120
Rijk's Private Cellar 2004 R120
Hartenberg 2005 R125
Hartenberg 2006 R125
Hermanuspietersfontein R129
Die Martha 2006
Circumstance 2007 (Waterkloof) R130
Bellingham e Bernard Series R140
Basket Press Syrah 2006 (DGB) ARP
Quoin Rock R145
William Kentridge Syrah 2005
KWV e Mentors 2006 R160
The Foundry Syrah 2005 ARP R161.25
Saronsberg Full Circle 2006 R170
Groot Constantia Gouverneurs 2007 R190
Midnight Maasai 2002 R200
(Leopard Frog) ARP
Uva Mira Syrah 2006 R200
Lomond Conebush Syrah 2007
(Bergkelder) ARP R216
Emineo Liber III RG 2007 R245.83
Ronnie Melck 2006 (Muratie) R275
Saxenburg Shiraz Select 2005 R550
WORTHY OF
INVESTIGATION
Kloovenburg 2007
Panelist Carrie Adams
says: "Lovely white pepper
and ripe red fruit on the nose.
Good length and breadth
on the palate."
CA's score: 16/20.
★ ★ two stars
Villiersdorp 2007 R26.50
Swartland 2008 R33.20
Nuy 2008* R35
Leopards Leap 2007 ARP R38
Bovlei 2007 R38
Douglas Green R40
Vineyard Creations 2007 (DGB) ARP
Wellington Reserve 2007 R40
Alexanderfontein 2007* (Ormonde) R42
Garden Route 2007* (De Krans) R45
Stellenbosch Hills 2006* R46
Le Fût Reserve 2006 R50
Rooiberg Reserve 2007 R55
Ondine 2007 (Ormonde) R55
Zonnebloem Limited Edition 2007 R55
(Bergkelder) ARP
Landskroon Paul De Villiers 2007 R58
Wildekrans 2007 R64
Bellingham Shiraz with a Splash R65
of Viognier 2006 (DGB) ARP
KWV Reserve 2006* R65
Morton's 2005 (sold from Tokara) R65
Rico Suter 2006 R65
Heron Ridge The Flight 2006 R65
De Heuvel 2007 R68
Boschendal 1685 2007 R68
Ernst & Co 2007 R68.50
Ross Gower Elgin 2007* R70
MAN Vintners Reserve 2007* R70
Koelfontein 2006 R75.60
Boland Cellar Reserve No 1 2006 R76.67
Cape Rock SGMV 2008* ARP R79
Vrede en Lust Syrah 2007 R80
Backsberg Pumphouse 2006 R82.50
Anura Limited Release 2007 R85
Ridgeback 2006 R85
Pella Syrah 2007 R89.50
Longridge 2007 R90
Tamboerskloof Syrah 2006 (Kleinood) R90
Middelvlei 2007 R91.50
Rhebokskloof Syrah 2006 R93
Dombeya Boulder Road 2006 R96
Kanu 2005 R97
Cape Rock 2007 ARP R105
Joubert-Tradauw Syrah 2006 R105
The Auction Crossing R110
Syrah Viognier 2006 (Hex River Crossing)
Eikendal 2005 R115
Cederberg 2006 R115
Cape to Cairo Syrah 2007 R116.67
La Motte 2007 R117
Anatu 2006 ARP R120
Edgebaston 2006 ARP R120
Metzer Syrah 2006 R120
Journey's End The Cape Doctor 2005 R120
Maison 2008 R120
Alto 2005 (Bergkelder) R128.86
Cederberg 2007 R130
Boschrivier 2005 R130
Val de Vie 2007 R135
Saronsberg 2006 R140
Grande Provence 2006* R140
Seidelberg R140.50
Roland's Reserve Syrah 2006
Quoin Rock Simonsberg Syrah 2006 R145
Spier Private Collection 2006 R148
Jean Taillefert 2005 (Laborie) R151
Jean Taillefert 2006 (Laborie) R151
Marianne 2007 R175
Kleine Zalze Family Reserve 2006 R180
Vergelegen 2006 R184
Neil Ellis R190
Vineyard Selection Syrah 2006
Groot Constantia Gouverneurs 2006 R190
Stark-Condé Three Pine Syrah 2007* R195
Flagstone Dark Horse 2006* R200
(Constellation Wines SA)
Stellenzicht Syrah 2003 R203.98
Luddite 2006 R245
Zandvliet Kalkveld R269
‘Hill of Enon' Small Berry Pick 2003
one star
Weenen & Barge Cuveé Quint 2004 R20
(Ridgemor)
Dwyka Hills 2006* (New Cape Wines) R30
Bonnievale 2005* R32.50
Table Bay 2007 (Ultra Liquors) ARP R35
Wellington Reserve 2005 R40
Villiera 2005 R44
Zanddrift Chapel Cellar 2007 R50
Bovlei Centenary 2005 R50
Bovlei Centenary 2006 R50
A Few Good Men 2006 (Riebeek) R50
Dieu Donné 2006 R52
Bon Courage 2007 ARP R59.50
Goede Hoop 2002 R60
Eaglevlei 2007 R60
Nuy Barrel Selection Syrah 2006 R60
De Meye 2006 R64
Neethlingshof 2005 R64.34
Thokozani SMV 2007 R65
Ashton Reserve 2006 R65
Diemersfontein 2007 R69
Major's Hill 2006 R70
The Very Sexy 2006 (Cloof) R75
Blaauwklippen R80
Vineyard Selection 2006
Pulpit Rock 2005 R80
Woolworths Hercules R80
Paragon Shiraz 2006 (Simonvlei) ARP
Allesverloren 2007 R83.14
Mason's 2004 R85
De Grendel 2006 R85
Beaumont 2004 R90
Oude Denneboom 2006 R90
JH Pacas 2004 (Bernheim) R90
Post House 2006 R95
Jordan Syrah 2005 R97.50
Boplaas Family Reserve 2006 R100
Rickety Bridge 2004 R100
Nederburg Manor House 2007 R100
Andreas 2007 R105
Durbanville Hills Rhinofields 2006 R108
Bilton 2005 R110
Bon Courage Inkará 2007 ARP R112.84
Amani Forest Myers 2006 R120
Rietvallei Special Select 2006 R125
Cheviot Syrah 2006 R130
Quoin Rock Simonsberg Syrah 2007 R145
Cloof Crucible 2006 R450
also tasted
Domershire 2006* R50
Morkel 2003 (Bellevue) R60
De Heuvel 2006 R60
Domershire Stoep 2006 R65
Mooiplaas 2004 R79.50
Mooiplaas 2005 R79.50
JH Pacas 2005 (Bernheim) R90
Topiary 2006 R95.80
Bilton 2006 R110
Glen Carlou Syrah 2006 R130
Mulderbosch 2005 R146
Wedderwill 2004 R154
Meerendal Bin 159 2005 R165
PRICES: wines in each quality grouping
are listed in order of ascending price - all
ex-cellar unless otherwise stipulated.
ARP Approximate retail price
* Bottled under screwcap
WINE TASTERS: editor of WINE magazine
Christian Eedes (chair) (CE), Wine Judging
Academy graduates Carrie Adams of
retailer Norman Goodfellows (CA) and
James Pietersen (JP), wine writer Angela
Lloyd (AL) and Cape Wine Master Gerald
Ludwinksi (GL).
