Buying guide: Rosé and Blanc de Noir

Key findings: The huge growth of the ‘pink’ category around the world in recent times is well-documented, but on the basis of this tasting is difficult to understand.

 

The winemaking in evidence was below average and the wines were generally of little interest, if not outright faulty. If Rosé is meant to be about elegance, prettiness and freshness, then the bulk of what was under review was the antithesis, being coarse, crude and over-matured.

Rosé is hardly the most technically demanding sort of wine to make and yet too often the wines appeared as if an afterthought. It was speculated that many of the wines that involved the bleeding off of juice from red varieties came about incidentally, winemakers attempting super-concentrated reds and consequently left with a by-product which ends up as a ‘Rosé’ rather than deliberately trying to make the best Rosé from the outset.

As for the wines that saw white blended with red, these tended to come across as glib and insincere: the tendency to use Sauvignon Blanc as a component must be resisted, the wines appearing disconcertingly green!

On an ever so slightly more positive note, it has to be said that colour was generally pleasing with less disparity than there was fi ve years ago. Even so, there appears no real distinction between wines labelled as Blanc de Noir and Rosé.

What is sorely lacking is some serious application when it comes to the production of Rosé. Those that drink it might typically be wine novices, but fobbing off sub-standard product on them is cynical and ultimately self-defeating, a gin and tonic on a hot summer’s day being much more appetising than most of the local pink wines on offer.

★ ★ ★
Simonsvlei Premier Selection Shiraz Rosé 2010*
CELLAR PRICE: R31
Alc 12.5% RS 3.19g/TA 5.49g/pH 3.49
Delicate coral blush in colour. Very primary on the nose with red fruit and a hint of fynbos. Sweet, juicy fruit and relatively soft acidity make for a well-rounded, approachable wine. Drink now.
CE 15 | FM 15 | HB 14 | MC 15 | AL 15

Delheim Pinotage Rosé 2010
CELLAR PRICE: R39
Alc 12.38% RS 5.5g/TA 6.24g/pH 3.38
Bright pink in colour. Red berries and rose petal nose. The palate is full-fruited with vibrant acidity. Well made with no rough edges. Drink now.
CE 14 | FM 15 | HB 14.5 | MC 15.5 | AL 15

Dragonridge Cosmos Rosé 2010
CELLAR PRICE: R40
Alc 14% RS 2.7g/TA 6.2g/pH 3.46
Pale orange. Red fruit and some spice on the nose, which follows through to palate.The wine is medium bodied and elegant, relatively complex in flavour. Drink now.
CE 15 | FM 15 | HB 14 | MC 15 | AL 15

★ ★ ✩
Flamingo Bay Merlot Rosé 2010*
(Darling Cellars) R23
Swartland Blanc de Noir 2010* R24
Drostdy-Hof Rosé 2010* R25
Angels Tears Off-Dry Pink NV*
(Grande Provence) ARP R29.95
Eagle’s Cliff Shiraz Rosé 2010* R30
Hill and Dale Dry
Merlot Rosé 2010* ARP R31.22
Bergsig Shiraz Rosé 2010* R32
Mountain Ridge
Pinotage Rosé 2009* R34.50
Havana Hills Lime Road 1481
Merlot Rosé 2010* R35
Spier Signature Shiraz Rosé 2009* R35
Flat Roof Manor
Pinot Rosé 2010* ARP R37.24
The River Garden Rosé 2010*
(Lourensford) R38
Kleine Zalze Cellar Selection
Gamay Noir Rosé 2010* R39
Pierre Jourdan Tranquille NV* R39
Boschendal
Blanc de Noir 2010* (DGB) R40
Lanzerac Rosé 2010* R40
The Wolftrap Rosé 2010*
(Boekenhoutskloof Winery) R40
De Grendel Rosé 2010* R45
MAN Vintners Old Vine Rosé 2010* ARP R45
Mulderbosch
Cabernet Sauvignon Rosé 2010* R48
Groot Constantia Blanc de Noir 2010 R52

★ ★
Openers Festivity – Opener Rosé 2009*
(Waterstone Wines) R20.64
Suikerbosch Rosé 2010* (Zidela) R22
Arniston Bay The Shore Rosé 2010*
(the company of wine people) R23
Obikwa Pinotage Rosé 2010* ARP R23
Millstone Off-Dry Shiraz Rosé 2009*
(Stettyn Cellar) R23.50
Du Toitskloof Rosé 2010* R25
Isis Rosé 2010*(Schalkenbosch Wines) R25
Two Oceans Shiraz Rosé 2010* R26
Landskroon Pinotage Off-Dry
Blanc de Noir 2010* R27
Riebeek Cellars Pinotage Rosé 2010* R27
Goedverwacht Shiraz Rosé 2010* R28
Boland Cellar Sixty 40 Rosé 2010* R29
John B Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot Rosé
2010* (Rietvallei) R29.95
Boplaas Elephant Dry Rosé 2009* R30
Fives Reserve Merlot Rosé 2010*
(Van Loveren) R30.75
Arniston Bay Pinotage Rosé 2010*
(the company of wine people) R31
Allée Bleue Rosé 2010* R32
De Krans Cabernet Sauvignon
Rosé 2010* R32
Eikendal Merlot Shiraz Rosé 2010* R33
Fish Hoek Pinotage Rosé 2009*
(Constellation Wines SA) R35
Graham Beck Rosé 2010* R35
Mostertsdrift Merlot Rosé 2010* R35
Slowine Rosé 2009*
(Villiersdorp Cellar) R35
Tygerberg Cabernet Franc Rosé 2010*
(Altydgedacht Estate) R35
Waverley Hills Rosé 2009* R35
Whalehaven Pinotage Rosé 2010* R36
Pearlstone Merlot Rosé 2010*
(Rhebokskloof) R36.50
Barton Shiraz Rosé 2010* R38
Durbanville Hills Merlot Rosé 2010* R38
Thokozani Rosé 2010*
(Diemersfontein Wines) R39
Rosé de Pinotage by L’Avenir 2010* R40
Provenance Shiraz Rosé 2010
(Saronsberg) R40
Melck’s Rosé 2010* (Muratie) R42
De Leuwen Jagt Rosé 2010*
(Seidelberg) R44.50
Bein Pink Merlot 2010 R45
Feiteiras Cor De Rosa Merlot Rosé 2010* R45
Hillcrest
Cabernet Sauvignon Rosé 2010* R45
Kloovenberg
White from Red Shiraz 2010* R45
Lynx Blanc de Noir 2010* R45
Nelson Estate Rosé 2010* R45
Diemersdal Sauvignon Rosé 2010* R46
Jordan Chameleon Dry Rosé 2010* R46.50
Bosman Family Vineyards 30
Rosé 2010* R50
Kanonkop Kadette
Dry Pinotage Rosé 2010 R52
False Bay Rosé 2010* (Waterkloof) R55
Gabriëlskloof Rosebud 2010* R55
Seidelberg
Mourvèdre Blanc de Noir 2010* R56.50
Seidelberg Rosé 2010* R56.50
Hermanuspietersfontein Bloos 2010* R57
Benguela Cove Maiden Vintage
Rosé 2009* R59
Delaire Cabernet Franc Rosé 2010* R65
Blaauwklippen White Zinfandel
Blanc de Noir 2009 R90

★
Van Loveren Shiraz Blanc de Noir 2010 R24
Compagnies Wijn
Ruby Blanc Rosé 2010* R28
Bellingham Rosé 2010* (DGB) ARP R29.95
Jean-Pierre’s Provincial Style Lunchtime
Rosé 2010* (Mount Vernon) R30
Welmoed Rosé 2010*
(the company of wine people) R32
Lynx Rosado 2010* R35
Fort Simon Pinotage Merlot Rosé 2008 R36
JC Kannemeyer Wolfkloof Single Vineyard
Merlot Rosé 2010* R39
Kleinfontein Rosé 2010* ARP R40
Topiary Rosé 2009* R40
Devon Rocks Shiraz Rosé 2009* R42
Juanita Cabernet Sauvignon Rosé 2010*
(Rietvallei Wine Estate) R42
KC Cabernet Franc Rosé 2010*
(Klein Constantia) R42
Danie de Wet Rosé 2010*
(De Wetshof) R43
Under Oaks Limited Release
Rosé 2010* R44
Buitenverwachting Blanc de Noir 2010 R45
Stonecross Pinotage Rosé 2010*
(Deetlefs Wines) R49
Cederberg Sustainable Viticulture
Rosé 2010* R50
Sumaridge Merlot Rosé 2009* R50
Opstal Syrah Viognier Blush 2010* R55
Painted Wolf Rosalind 2010* R55
Peter Falke PF Blanc de Noir 2009 R55
Tokara Zondernaam Rosé 2010* R55
Waterford Estate Rose - Mary 2010* R60
Anatu Rosé 2009 ARP R80

Seven Rosé wines tasted did not receive a star rating

PRICES: wines in each quality grouping
are listed in order of ascending price – all
ex-cellar unless otherwise stipulated
ARP – Approximate retail price
* – Bottled under screwcap