Buying guide: Red blends
The category of wines made according to the Bordeaux template (with Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot in prominent roles but also potentially including Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot) is well established and warrants its own annual review (most recently reported on in the September 2010 issue).
However, there is a multitude of other red blends, spanning the spectrum from humble quaffers to ultra-premium concept wines, and the question is how to assess them in a meaningful way.
Wines made according to the Rhône model, typically with Shiraz in a prominent role, are increasingly to the fore and such wines make up one obvious sub-group. Another broad sub-group comprises wines that, for lack of a better descriptor, we termed Bordeaux-centric, typically dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot but then containing a variety not associated with that region.
A miscellaneous collection still remained, with wines such as Bouchard Finlayson Hannibal 2008 (50% Sangiovese, 22% Pinot Noir, 13% Nebbiolo, 7% Mourvèdre, 6% Barbera and 2% Shiraz) defying easy classification. In order to make the line-up of wines manageable in terms of numbers, all wines containing a significant proportion (30% or more) of Pinotage (called Cape Blends by some) were held over to a later tasting to be reported on in the May 2011 issue.
Key findings: An exciting development when it comes to red blends is that we are starting to see local winemakers trusting their intuition as to what combination of varieties work best in a blend rather than using templates inherited from the Old World. More and more producers seem to be breaking with convention, not just for novelty’s sake but out of a conviction that they need to be innovative in order to best express their terroir. Soil and climate are not the same as the wine regions of Europe, so why apply a derivative approach to what varieties are planted where and how they are combined in the cellar?
A concern was, however, expressed about the commercial viability of such alternative blends. Allan Mullins, Woolworths wine selector and panel member, remarked that wines containing more than two or three varieties are “a very hard sell”, even when they come with big critical endorsement.
Because of the increasing use of unfamiliar varieties as well as the diversity of styles on offer, these wines can be rather daunting for the uninitiated. There are, however, plenty of rewarding drinking experiences to be had across all price points and Wine magazine readers need to match the sense of adventure shown by the winemakers!
Obviously, a minimum amount of research is required before making a purchase decision because there is still quite a lot of carelessly made wine as producers attempt to dispense with leftovers. In order to succeed as a blend, a wine has to be made according to a particular aesthetic vision on the part of the winemaker and there were certainly some which showed little evidence of this, the resulting wines appearing disjointed and clumsy.
That said, the best wines have clearly been made to a specific brief, whether they be a good everyday sipper such as Stellenrust Simplicity 2009 or an attempt at greatness such as Columella 2008.
★ ★ ★ ★ ✩
Saronsberg Full Circle 2007
CELLAR PRICE: R185
Alc 15% RS 3.7g/l TA 5.2g/l pH 3.58
Shiraz, Mourv, Viog. Powerful oaky note on the nose as well as attractive fynbos. The palate shows ultra-ripe sweet fruit and spice. Full-bodied with fresh acidity and firm tannins. Pure and concentrated. Drink now – 2014.
CE 17 | JP 16 | JK 16.5 | AM 17.5 | AL 18
★ ★ ★ ★
Broken Stone 2006 (Slaley)
CELLAR PRICE: R35
Alc 14% RS 2.8g/l TA 5.8g/l pH 3.7
Cab, Shiraz. Some earthy developed notes on the nose. The palate shows ripe red fruit and a herbaceous note. Firm but fine tannins, fresh acidity. Drink now.
CE 17 | JP 14.5 | JK 17 | AM 15.5 | AL 15
Stellenrust Simplicity 2009*
CELLAR PRICE: R40
Alc 14% RS 3.3g/l TA 5.8g/l pH 3.5
Merlot, Shiraz, Cab. Cherry fruit, spice and dried herbs on the nose. Medium bodied with fresh acidity and pleasing tannic grip. Drink now - 2012.
CE 16.5 | JP 17.5 | JK 15.5 | AM 16.5 | AL 15.5
Groot Constantia Constantia Rood 2009
CELLAR PRICE: R66
Alc 13.73% RS 1.9g/l TA 5.7g/l pH 3.68
Shiraz, Merlot, Cab, Cab F, Malbec, Ptage.
Red and black fruit as well as spice on the nose. Medium-bodied and elegant with good fruit expression and fresh acidity. Long, dry finish. Drink now – 2012.
CE 17 | JP 17.5 | JK 15.5 | AM 17 | AL 15.5
Knorhoek Pantère 2006
CELLAR PRICE: R110
Alc 14.5% RS 2.2g/l TA 6.6g/l pH 3.47
Merlot, Cab F, Cab, Shiraz. Dark fruit, fynbos and attractive oak on the nose. Full-bodied but balanced with layers of flavour including red and black fruit as well as spice. Complex and pleasingly savoury. Drink now – 2013.
CE 16.5 | JP 16 | JK 16.5 | AM 16.5 | AL 18
Blaauwklippen Barouche BBC
27 Wheels of Fortune 2009 (1.5l)
CELLAR PRICE: R130
Alc 14% RS 5.8g/l TA 5.5g/l pH 3.63
Zin, Shiraz, Malbec, Cab. Very ripe black fruit on the nose and palate. Full-bodied, big and rich. Very tannic of fi nish. Drink now – 2012.
CE 15 | JP 16.5 | JK 16.5 | AM 16 | AL 17
Ernie Els Big Easy 2009
CELLAR PRICE: R120
Alc 14.57% RS 3.7g/l TA 5.5g/l pH 3.62
Shiraz, Cab, Mourv, Gren, Viog. Red berries and some fragrance on the nose. Rich and full with concentrated sweet fruit and fine, spicy tannins. Clean and modern. Drink 2012 – 2014.
CE 17.5 | JP 15 | JK 15.5 | AM 18.5 | AL 16
Hidden Valley Hidden Secret 2007
CELLAR PRICE: R135
Alc 14.54% RS 1.9g/l TA 5.9g/l pH 3.48
Shiraz, Tannat, Mourv. Attractive oak derived character on the nose. Full but balanced on the palate with a core of dark fruit, fresh acidity and firm tannins. Drink 2012 – 2015.
CE 16 | JP 16.5 | JK 17 | AM 17 | AL 16
Muratie Ansela van de Caab 2007
CELLAR PRICE: R160
Alc 14% RS 1.9g/l TA 6.1g/l pH 3.79
Cab, Merlot, Cab F, Shiraz. Red berries, fynbos and pepper on the nose. The palate is medium-bodied and elegant with good fruit expression, fresh acidity and fine tannins. Persistent finish. Drink now – 2014.
CE 17 | JP 15 | JK 16 | AM 16 | AL 16.5
Mont Destin Passioné 2007
CELLAR PRICE: R180
Alc 14% RS 2.7g/l TA 5.8g/l pH 3.5
Cab, Shiraz. Some reduction on the nose. The palate is rich and full with pure, concentrated fruit and sleek, polished tannins. Drink now – 2012.
CE 16 | JP 16 | JK 15 | AM 17.5 | AL 17
Ormonde Theodore Eksteen 2008
CELLAR PRICE: R190
Alc 15.48% RS 3.0g/l TA 5.3g/l pH 3.65
Shiraz, Gren. Spice and pepper on the nose and palate. A blockbuster with lots of juicy fruit and soft acidity. Drink now – 2012.
CE 17 | JP 15.5 | JK 16 | AM 16.5 | AL 16.5
KWV The Mentors Canvas 2008
CELLAR PRICE: R195
Alc 13.67% RS 2.3g/l TA 6.2g/l pH 3.3
Shiraz, Gren, Mourv, P Verdot, Cinsaut, Temp.
Attractive oak on nose and palate. Big but balanced in the mouth with flavours of dark fruit and spice, tangy acidity and firm tannins. Drink now – 2013.
CE 16.5 | JP 15.5 | JK 16 | AM 15.5 | AL 17
Keermont 2007
CELLAR PRICE: R228
Alc 14% RS 2.5g/l TA 5.69g/l pH 3.58
Cab, Merlot, Shiraz. Ultra-ripe dark fruit and attractive oak on the nose. Rich and full with soft tannins and gentle acidity. Drink now – 2012.
CE 14.5 | JP 18 | JK 16 | AM 16 | AL 15
Emineo Liber II JLS 2007
CELLAR PRICE: R245.83
Alc 14.65% RS 2.4g/l TA 5.7g/l pH 3.72
Cab, Merlot, Ptage. Dark fruit, an attractive herbal note and oak on the nose. The palate is medium-bodied with tangy acidity and fine tannins. Pleasing savoury quality on the finish. Drink now – 2012.
CE 16.5 | JP 17.5 | JK 16 | AM 17.5 | AL 15.5
Emineo Liber III RG 2007
CELLAR PRICE: R245.83
Alc 14.65% RS 2.3g/l TA 5.6g/l pH 3.66
Shiraz, Mourv. The nose is shy but the palate is rich and full with dark fruit, fresh acidity and fi rm tannins. Modern but accomplished in style. Drink now – 2012.
CE 15.5 | JP 16.5 | JK 16 | AM 17 | AL 17
Rust en Vrede Estate 2006
APPROXIMATE RETAIL PRICE: R318
Alc 15.5% RS 3.37g/l TA 6.16g/l pH 3.64
Cab, Shiraz, Merlot. Dark berries, pencil shavings and some pleasing development on the nose. The palate is rich and full with sweet, concentrated dark fruit and oak-derived vanilla and chocolate. Good line of acidity lends freshness. Drink now – 2016.
CE 17 | JP 14.5 | JK 18 | AM 15 | AL 15
La Motte Pierneef Shiraz Grenache 2007
CELLAR PRICE: R319
Alc 13.58% RS 2.8g/l TA 5.4g/l pH 3.89
Shiraz, Gren, Mourv. Red and black fruit, pepper and spice on the nose and palate. Good fruit concentration, fresh acidity and smooth tannins. Full but balanced with a long, dry finish. Drink now – 2014.
CE 16.5 | JP 16 | JK 15 | AM 15 | AL 16.5
Columella 2008
APPROXIMATE RETAIL PRICE: R650
Alc 14.6% RS 1.8g/l TA 5.8g/l pH 3.55
Shiraz, Mourv. Some perfume and oak on the nose. Great balance between juicy fruit, fresh acidity and fi ne tannins on the palate. Layers of fl avour including red and black berries, spice. Drink now – 2018.
CE 15.5 | JP 17.5 | JK 15.5 | AM 16 | AL 17.5
Waterford Estate The Jem 2006
APPROXIMATE RETAIL PRICE: R735.50
Alc 14% RS 1.6g/l TA 5.9g/l pH 3.65
Cab, Shiraz, Cab F, Malbec, Mourv, Barb, Sangio.
Red and black berries and oak on the nose. The palate shows excellent structure with pure, dense fruit, firm tannins and fresh acidity. Has breadth and depth. Drink now – 2016.
CE 17 | JP 15.5 | JK 16 | AM 16 | AL 17
★ ★ ★ ✩
Flamingo Bay Cinsaut Cabernet
Sauvignon 2009* (Darling Cellars) R26
Villiersdorp Cellar
Dam Good Red 2009* R27
Meerkat Burrow Blend 2008*
(Schalk Burger and Sons) R35
Edenhof Bin 409 2008 R45
Overgaauw Touriga Naçional
Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 R58
Durbanville Hills Bastion 2009 R67
Kleine Zalze
Shiraz Mourvèdre Viognier 2009* R80
Lourensford Shiraz Viognier 2007* R80
Lammershoek Zinfandel Syrah 2007 R85
Blaauwklippen Barouche BBC 26
Taste is Relative 2008 (1.5) R130
Spier Creative Block 3 2008 R112
Creation Syrah Grenache 2008 R124.50
Allée Bleue L’Amour Toujours 2007 R140
The Minotaur Legend of the Labyrinth
2007 (Doolhof) R150
Sumaridge Epitome 2008 R160
Hannibal 2008 (Bouchard Finlayson) R172
Stellenzicht Rhapsody 2006 ARP R175
Fleur du Cap Laszlo 2006 R250
★ ★ ★
Simonsrood NV (Simonsvlei) R27
Jason’s Creek Classic Red 2009
(Jason’s Hill) R35
Kanu Rockwood Red 2007* R39
Lourensford
Shiraz Mourvèdre Viognier 2008* R40
Kumkani Shiraz Viognier 2007*
(the company of wine people) ARP R45
The River Garden Shiraz Cabernet
Sauvignon 2009* (Lourensford) R45
Three Peaks Cantata 2007* R45
Havana Hills Shiraz Cabernet Sauvignon
Merlot Reserve 2007 (Du Plessis Family
Vineyards) ARP R47.88
Flat Roof Manor Shiraz Mourvèdre
2007* ARP R48
Manley Thatch House Red 2009* R50
Oak Lane Shiraz Cabernet Sauvignon
2009* (Beau Joubert) R50
Joostenberg Shiraz Merlot 2009* R52
Hartenberg Cabernet Sauvignon
Shiraz 2007 R55
The Foodbarn Franck and Pete’s
Stupendously Good Red 2008*
(Klein Constantia) R55
The Tin Mine 2008* (Zevenwacht) R55
Thelema Mountain Red 2007* R60
Simonsig The SMV
Shiraz Mourvèdre Viognier 2008* R69
Alto Rouge 2008 ARP R70
Blaauwklippen Cabriolet 2006 R70.52
Zonnebloem Lauréat 2008 R77.99
Stellenbosch Hills Seventeen Hundred
and Seven 1707 Reserve 2008 R81
Nico van der Merwe
Cape Elements 2008 R85
Onyx Kroon 2007 (Darling Cellars) R85
KWV Cathedral Cellar Triptych 2008 R86
Anatu Family Blend 2008 ARP R90
Alvi’s Drift Drift Fusion 2008 R99
Bergsig Icarus 2008 R105
Delaire Red
Lawrence Greef Wines 2006 R110
Joostenberg Bakermat 2007 R110
Grand Vin De Glenelly 2007 R125
Beaumont Shiraz Mourvèdre 2008 R125
Hermanuspietersfontein
Die Martha 2006 R139
Stony Brook Vineyards
Shiraz Mourvèdre Viognier 2007 R140
Waterkloof Circle of Life 2008* R140
The Chocolate Block 2009
(Boekenhoutskloof) R150
KWV The Mentors Orchestra 2007* R195
Radford Dale Gravity 2008*
(The Winery of Good Hope) R280
★ ★ ✩
Du Toitskloof
Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz 2009* R27.26
Libby’s Pride Signature Red 2009 R28.50
Eagle’s Cliff Shiraz Pinotage 2008* R30
Arniston Bay
Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz 2008*
(the company of wine people) ARP R31
Robertson Winery
Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz 2009* R32
Broken Stone 2007 (Slaley) R35
The Wolftrap 2009*
(Boekenhoutskloof) R40
Doolhof Cape Roan 2007 R43
Splattered Toad Shiraz Cabernet Sauvignon
2008* (Cape Point Vineyards) R48
Bovlei Vineyard Selected Limited Release
Shiraz Mourvèrde 2009 R50
Hill and Dale Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz
2009 ARP R50
Porcupine Ridge Syrah Viognier
2009* (Boekenhoutskloof) R50
Secateurs Red Blend 2009*
(Badenhorst Family Wines) ARP R59
Tierhoek Grenache Syrah 2009 R59
Lynx Vino Tinto 2008* R60
Landskroon Paul de Villiers Reserve
2009 R62
Edgebaston The Pepper Pot
2009* ARP R67
Boland Private Cellar Shiraz Viognier
2007 R69
Boschendal 1685 Shiraz Cabernet
Sauvignon 2009 (DGB) R70
Ugaba 2008 ARP R70
Painted Wolf Madach 2008* R75
Uitkyk Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz
2006 ARP R77
Bilton Matt Black 2008* R80
Ken Forrester Shiraz Grenache 2006* R80
Stellekaya Hercules 2007 R80
Premium Kroon 2008 (Darling Cellars) R85
Rickety Bridge The Foundation Stone
2008 R85
Flagstone Dragon Tree 2008*
(Constellation SA) R86
Stellekaya Cape Cross 2005 R90
La Bri Shiraz Viognier 2007 R95
Lammershoek Roulette 2007 R95
Blaauwklippen Barouche 25
The Blaauwklippen Blending Competition
2007 (1.5) R130
Iemanjá 2008
(Micu Narunsky Wines) ARP R120
Zevenwacht Z Collection 2008 R132
Creation Syrah Grenache 2009 R135
Durbanville Hills
Bastion 2008 (1.5) R150
Sequillo 2008 ARP R153
La Motte Pierneef Collection
Shiraz Viognier 2007 R189
Gary Player Major Championship Series
Augusta 1961 2004
(Black Knight Wines) R250
★ ★
Waverley Hills
Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz 2006 R26
Landskroon Paul Hugo Red 2009* R27
Sizanani Merlot Pinotage 2009
(Bellevue) R27
Kumala Zenith Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon
Shiraz 2010* (Constellation SA) R28
Rooiberg Mountain Red 2010* R28
Boland Cellar Sixty 40 Cabernet
Sauvignon Shiraz 2009* R32
Arniston Bay Shiraz Merlot 2009*
(the company of wine people) ARP R32.99
Arniston Bay Shiraz Pinotage 2009*
(the company of wine people) ARP R32.99
Allée Bleue Starlette Rouge 2007 R35
Bonnievale Cellar
Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz 2008* R35
Swartland Merlot Shiraz 2009* R35
Van Loveren
Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz 2009 R35.33
Delheim
Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz 2009* R39
Kumkani Shiraz Cabernet Sauvignon 2007*
(the company of wine people) ARP R45
Simonsig
Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz 2009 R47
Melcks 2010* (Muratie) R48
Flagstone Longitude 2008*
(Constellation SA) R49
Edgebaston The Berry Box 2009* ARP R67
Hazendal Shiraz Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 R70
Stony Brook Vineyards Shiraz Mourvèdre 2005 R75
Black Pearl Oro 2008* R85
Rustenberg Stellenbosch RM Nicholson 2009* R85
Lynx SMV 2009* R90
Olodum 2008 (Micu Narunsky Wines) ARP R90
Nativo 2007 (The Hughes Family Wines) ARP R95
Nativo 2008 (The Hughes Family Wines) ARP R105
Marklew Capensis 2005 R110
Black Rock Red Blend 2007*
(The Winery of Good Hope) R112
Idiom Shiraz Mourvèdre Viognier 2007 R180
Graham Beck The Joshua 2005 R195
Elemental Bob The Turkish
Limited Edition Retro Series 2008 ARP R200
Zorgvliet Richelle 2007 R200
Marianne Floreal 2005 R205
Nico van der Merwe Mas Nicolas Cape 2006 R280
Anwilka 2008 R360
★
Virgin Earth High 5 2007 (Du Plessis Family Vineyards) R60
Dormershire Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz 2006 R65
Mellasat M 2005 R80
Renosterbos Nico’s Blend 2009 (Hofstraat Kelder) R80
Westerdale Mirari 2007
Integer Red Blend 2008 (Hoopenburg) R130
Four non–Bordeaux blends tasted did not receive a Star
rating.
PRICES: wines in each quality grouping are listed in order of ascending price – all ex-cellar unless otherwise stipulated.
ARP – Approximate retail price
* – Bottled under screwcap
