Buying guide: Port
About the category: Of the various categories of fortified wine, Port has always had the reputation for quality above all the others. Developed in the Douro region of Portugal in the late 17th century, Port became the drink of the British, where its complex character and higher alcohol suited the palate and the climate of the country. The ability of Port to develop in the bottle for as much as 100 years encouraged the wealthy aristocracy and the famous university collages to lay down considerable cellars of the better vintages for the benefit of those who came after them. All of which helps to develop the mystique of Port. Although it is now made in other countries, notably in the New World, it is still the Portuguese wines which are regarded as the benchmark for Port.
At the time that the South African Port Producers Association was established in 1992, South African wines appearing under the ‘Port’ label were a very mixed bunch, most showing the character of a fortified liqueur wine rather than a true Port, and very few using fruit from the traditional Portuguese grape varieties. Now, some 19 years later, it is a very different story, with the producers trying to keep within the SAPPA guidelines for the various categories, and the standard of South African Port reaching very high levels. We have some superb tawny Ports, easily as good as the Portuguese, and some vintage Ports which are developing into world-class wines.
Key findings:
WHITE PORT: At their best, a fresh, fruity palate, not overly complex, with a clean, balanced finish. When suitably chilled they can make a pleasant aperitif.
PINK PORT: A recent addition to the local Port scene; something of a fun wine. Light in structure, fresh berry flavours make these wines more easily accessible than other Ports, also best drunk chilled.
RUBY PORT: This category represents the vast majority of Port produced in all countries. Designed to be drunk quite young, it rarely has any wood contact and has fairly uncomplicated structure with a fruity character. Most of the wines tasted showed the desired qualities, with the judges commenting on the high overall standard, the wines being better made with fewer faults than in previous years.
TAWNY PORT: Once again this category showed the highest quality of wines. Owing to the fact that tawny Ports have to be aged in oak for many years to obtain their character, they are expensive to make. Fortunately for us, there are producers in South Africa who are still prepared to go to the lengths required to produce these delicious wines, and maintain such a high standard.
LATE BOTTLED VINTAGE: A category that is not always fully understood by producers or the public. These should be wines with complexity and depth, which have been given extra time in wood to develop before bottling, resulting in a serious wine which has developed faster than ‘vintage’ category wine and can be drunk younger. The wines tasted showed good developed character, but generally lacked complexity of fruit to be really good examples.
VINTAGE PORT: A mixed bag of wines tasted, ranging from 2 Stars to 4½ Stars. Again, the top-scoring wines were very good indeed, showing good complexity of fruit with structure to ensure they will develop for many years to come. Overall, the judges noted that there was a better handling of wood maturation and, as more Port varieties are used, the colours and complex layers of fruit become more in line with the vintage Port ideal.
WHITE PORT
★ ★ ✩
Axe Hill Cape White NV (500ml) R145
★ ★
Boplaas Cape White NV R42
Peter Bayly Cape White NV (375ml) R80
PINK PORT
★ ★
Boplaas Cape Pink NV (375ml) R31
De Krans The Original Pink NV (375ml) ARP R48
RUBY PORT
★ ★ ★ ✩
Douglas Green
Matured in Oak Cape Ruby NV R79.99
★ ★ ★
Boplaas Cape Ruby NV R42
Koelenhof Ruby Pino Porto Pinotage 2008 R45
Van Loveren Cape Ruby NV R52.83
★ ★ ✩
Riebeek Cellars Cape Ruby NV R40
Du Toitskloof Cellar Cape Ruby 2008 R49
De Krans Cape Ruby NV ARP R58
★ ★
Aan de Doorns Cape Ruby Oak Barrel Matured 2008 R32
Bergsig Cape Ruby NV R55
★
Oranjerivier Cellars Red NV* R31.85
TAWNY PORT
★ ★ ★ ★ ✩
KWV Cape Tawny NV ARP
APPROXIMATE RETAIL PRICE: R50
Alc 17.5% RS 159.8g/l TA 5.6g/l pH 3.59
Complex nose with dried herbs, apricots; long nutty palate, rich and powerful with a lingering rounded finish.
CF 17 | CR 18 | WP 16 | CJ 16 | AL 17
Boplaas Cape Tawny NV
CELLAR PRICE: R85
Alc 18.9% RS 103g/l TA 5.4g/l pH 3.5
Nutty, tea leaves and peaches on the nose; palate well balanced with a delicious complexity of nutty fruit on
the finish.
CF 17 | CR 17 | WP 17 | CJ 16 | AL 18
Boplaas Reserve
Cape Tawny 1997 (375ml)
CELLAR PRICE: R150
Alc 18.6% RS 109g/l TA 5.3g/l pH 3.46
Full complex nose with some hints of aged tea leaf and nutty fruit. A long palate with soft fruit over the underlying citrus peel giving freshness.
CF 17 | CR 17 | WP 17 | CJ 17 | AL 16
★ ★ ★
De Krans Cape Tawny NV ARP R105
★
Monfort Cape Classic Collection Tawny NV* ARP R34.99
LATE BOTTLED VINTAGE
★ ★ ★
Bergsig Cape LBV 2001 R65
Bergsig Cape LBV 2000 R65
★ ★ ✩
Villiera Fired Earth 2004 (500ml) ARP R72
Goede Hoop LBV Shiraz 2007 (500ml) R85
VINTAGE PORT
★ ★ ★ ★ ✩
De Krans Cape Vintage 2008
APPROXIMATE RETAIL PRICE: R88
Alc 19% RS 88.2g/l TA 5.4g/l pH 3.91
Deep complex nose, black cherries, violets, plum. Fruit follows on to long mid palate, classy integrated oak and spirit balance. A dry finish. Exciting potential for ageing.
CF 16 | CR 17 | WP 17 | CJ 17 | AL 18
Boplaas Cape
Vintage Reserve 2008
CELLAR PRICE: R150
Alc 17.6% RS 78.5g/l TA 5.8g/l pH 3.7
Full nose, hedgerow fruit, black berry fruit, cassis, hints of dried herbs. Layers of fruit flavours, cherry, cassis, classic Port complexity, although still young. Has excellent ageing potential.
CF 18 | CR 16 | WP 17 | CJ 18 | AL 18
De Krans
Cape Vintage Reserve 2007
APROXIMATE RETAIL PRICE: R200
Alc 19% RS 83.5g/l TA 5.6g/l pH 3.9
Subtle nose, hints of violets, blackcurrant, plums, dried herbs. Complex textured palate, spicy density of elegant fruit, long rounded finish shows structure for long ageing.
CF 17 | CR 18 | WP 17 | CJ 16.5 | AL 17
★ ★ ★ ★
Boplaas The Chocolate Cape
Vintage 2008 (375ml)
CELLAR PRICE: R45
Alc 17.3% RS 93.5g/l TA 5.2g/l pH 3.7
Layered nose, complex dense fruit. Spicy rich palate, black cherries, plums over well-balanced structure, dry finish. Will develop for a long time.
CF 17 | CR 15.5 | WP 16 | CJ 15 | AL 17
De Krans
Cape Vintage Reserve 2008
APPROXIMATE RETAIL PRICE: R200
Alc 19% RS 88.5g/l TA 5g/l pH 4.03
Rich fruit on nose, Christmas cake, black berry, savoury hints. Well layered, complex fruit flavours, spicy, black cherry and violets. Long dry finish. Good ageing potential.
CF 17 | CR 16 | WP 17 | CJ 16.5 | AL 15
★ ★ ★ ✩
Viljoensdrift Cape Vintage Reserve 2008 R65
Morgenhof Limited Release Cape Vintage 2003 R100
Backsberg 2006 R117
De Krans Cape Vintage Reserve 2009 ARP R200
Holden Manz 2009 R115
★ ★ ★
Landskroon 2007 R63
Peter Bayly Cape Vintage Port 2007 (375ml) R80
Vergenoegd Old Cape Colony Cape Vintage 2004 R98
Qunita do Sol Private Reserve Vintage 2008 R102
Muratie Cape Vintage 2008 R145
Boplaas Cape Vintage 2006 R150
Delaire Cape Vintage 2008 R160
Axe Hill Cape Vintage 2006 (500ml) R165
Alto 2006 (500ml) R220
★ ★ ✩
Bergsig Cape Vintage 2000 R75
Peter Bayly Cape Vintage 2006 (375ml) R80
Overgaauw Cape Vintage 1998 R115
Kaapzicht Cape Vintage 2006 R130
Annandale CVP 2003 (500ml) R150
★ ★
Allesverloren 2007 R87
Knorhoek HvN 2006 (375ml) R110
★
Overgaauw Cape Vintage 1992 R134
One Ruby Port tasted did not receive a star rating.
PRICES: Wines in each quality grouping are listed in order of ascending price – all ex-cellar unless otherwise stipulated
ARP – Approximate retail price
* – Bottled under screwcap
